Keeper

thanks guys

2 years now.

I put some compressed air into my two turbos while they were off, one spun really easily and kept spinning for a minute when the air was taken away, the other stopped spinning almost straight away. There was no sign of imbalance in the one that didn't spin as well, would it be natural to assume oil has gone gunky in the bearings and it should sort itself with a bit of fresh oil and the amount of air my car puts through the units?

Personally; Coilpacks Ignitor Module Air Flow Meters Wiring Looms Speed Sensor from behind dash O2 Sensors

Hi guys, Just rewiring a R33 fuse box into my R32GTR to help with the battery relocation, anyway before I go any further can someone who hasn't messed all their electrics up please confirm that in the engine relay box, there is a constant 12V supply to the fuses in there, basically that there is continuity between them and the +VE terminal on the battery. The R33 has this system, from my diagnosis it looks the same on the R32, but I have recently been dicking around with ALOT of wires and want to ensure that this was a design feature, not something I have inadvertently done. Thanks

nismo and tomei fuel pumps on ebay.com USA for good prices at the moment. thanks to uncle sam being depressed

water line behind block changed, with vacuum/boost lines GONE

for the nipple/barb. do you mean use the cast markings an inch or so under the T on Twin on this piece? I'm assuming I should pay someone and get it welded in from the looks.

Thanks man, I posted the last post then left the house realising how retarded a question it was, if I had connected the BOV return pipes to the plenum I would have a continual boost leak through that hose. I never realized the factory system vented back into the BOV pipes until you explained it then, the setup makes a lot more sense now than before. I will plumb the red hose in my diagram to the turbo compressor outlet and plug up the BOV return pipe. Will fix my diagram after and repost it to stop anyone using the wrong thing. Thanks for your help.

damn, just thought, do I need to balance the BOV return piping with the intake plenum, I assume thats why that connection runs to there from the plenum in the first place

On the "Twin Turbo" badged piping piece? Would a bolt in nipple be fine or should I get one welded on?

Damn that is true. I can see what I have done now, If I run a t-connector off the plenum then and use the same source as the in car controller sensor I should be right then. I don't really want to drill and fit a new nipple onto the turbo outlet piping.

Thanks. The covers are a dark red from craved coating, iPhone camera sucks a lot tho The ends under the plenum don't even really need plugging since no air will be passing thru them with this setup

While the engine is out and almost ready to go back in I thought I would tidy up the boost controller install from before which had me sitting my SBC-R in the position of the factory one near the battery. I used to get some pretty spikey boost at times so I have relocated the SBC-R to where the air filters are, I have a bit more room here now my washer bottle is where the battery USED to be. Anyway the plan is to run the SBC-R off a boost pressure source on the turbo side of the engine, through the unit and back to the actuators without crossing the engine bay, saving roughly 2m of hose in the process. The controller unit in the car requires a pressure feed to it as well, so I was going to take this off the underside of the plenum and run it direct into the cabin to save routing of hoses. I am then left with the water lines for the turbo from behind the block, I no longer need three pipes running behind the block, so I was going to ditch the whole piece off and run a 10mm water hose from the bracket on the turbo side to the two connectors on the intake side of the block. This also alleviates the problem I have created with my read head oil drain. Have attached badly done diagram

Need engine bay relay box. Pm if you have.

Have you opened the cluster and checked the speed sensor is actually in there and not broken? Someone posted a couple good threads ages back about it all, you could try a search on my name and on speed sensor to see if you can find the post. The wiring loom usually isn't the problem here....

Chilton engineering in brissy did mine.

Couple good photos in bomber mans build.

Sorry to hijack. Does it matter what direction the knock sensors are bolted back on at? Also there is a threaded hole 1 inch forward of the rear knock sensor, and another in line with it but between approximate cylinders 3&4. Should these have anything in them???

Take engine out. Works a treat

Yeah I thought so from the other photos I just wanted to check it wasn't something I have missed. Weird to have a couple threaded holes with no purpose on the block eh

Anyone got any idea? circled in red...

Sounds silly but did you check your fuel pressure?

Perfect. Thanks very much guys.

Thx Do you have any close ups of the underside of the turbos? The workshop manual is a bit vague here.