Keeper

A 1.2mm Tomei metal head gasket and in/out gasket kit with a nissan basic engine kit should do the job then? Thanks Nismoid, I think I drop it at the tuner by trailer after it ticks over

hmm deff sound like the best in tank option for no dicking around, need to source one now...

RB26DETT Ported and Polished Head HKS 2530 turbos Forged and balanced internals Aiming for 350awkw Couple questions guys; 1) Getting ready to reassembly the motor and I need to source a new set of gaskets for car. Should I use metal gaskets for the intake manifold/throttle bodies or is this overkill under 20psi? 2) When picking a head gasket I dont want to loose anymore mid range or bottom end but with the goal of 350-400kw should I buy a 1.2mm head gasket to keep things a bit safer, or stick with the 1.0mm? 3) Putting a power FC back on her, should I do the first engine start off the stock ECU from before rebuild then once it ticks over switch to FC? 4) How many KMs should I have on the clock before the first tune, a lack of good tune and the RB oil problem was what killed the girl first time round, turns out stock ECU on bigger turbos is stupid Thanks guys

will nismo in tank support 380awkw?

Hmmm... Great weekend except the loss of little Willy in the car crash Saturday night. I won best presented sports car for the Ferrari which made my day... anyone else got photos??? I got some of some of the old holdens etc too, anyone wanna see them?

this will allow you to use the R33 style key hole cover on a R32 too!!!

Isn't the benefit of a F/I car that it can detect the pressure and temp difference and adjust as required the basemap? We were cranking 6000ft, or 1800m density altitude (pressure altitude adjusted for temperature) in Toowoomba the other day, that's not crazy unusual for here and cars run fine at the top or bottom of the range.

Gay, even on the RB26?

I need to take the front drive shafts out of the hubs this Friday so it's easier to move the car and spray the engine bay, are there any tricks to this? looks to me like; 1.Take out cotter pin 2. Get someone to hang onto shaft tight and undo nut on outside of hub. 3. Hit inwards with a mallet. The motor is already out, I don't want to take the caliper off as I will feed the shaft into the engine bay. Thanks in advance

did I share the bookmarked manual with anyone? the only copy I posted aint working and I had to format the laptop a couple of months back

I feel your pain Lee, My sex life went out the window when the GTR went off the road, hasnt been the same since...

super low res aint a good start point either

f**k thats a sexy Stagea

a few of the boys at work mix it 50/50 and throw in in their motorbikes, saying that people usually take it from the slops tank, so make sure you drain for water content before adding to your tank. it does require a tune to run properly, i stay clear of it personally unless you can guarantee a sufficient supply to mix half half all the time and tune to suit.

Put aside $120 and YOU can fly a 2 seater trainer on the day. Be warned though, if you start flying yourself, everything else looses meaning...

Hey guys; On Sunday the 3rd of May the David Hack Classic Meet is going to be on at Toowoomba airport. I'm going to be working on the field on the day, but there should be a good selection of Vintage cars, trucks, military vehicle, some planes and more. Details and some great photos can be found on http://www.rotarydavidhack.org/classicmeet.php When Sunday, 3rd May, 2009 - from 9.00am - 3.00pm. Where The Aerotec Hangar, Spitfire St, Toowoomba Airport.

a multi wing aircraft just allows more lift to be produced in the same wingspan over a less efficient aerofoil multi element aerofoils should be able to produce more downforce for the same wing span. fatter aerofoils produce more lift at lower speeds but more drag at higher speeds, skinnier aerofoils produce more lift at higher velocities though, now im thinking the shit planes we fly use very fat wings and we cruise around 160kph, wouldnt a car aerofoil which probably see's most its use around 100-200kph need a fatter aerofoil too? most the D1 style wings are just a slightly curved flat piece of carbon of firbeglass

haven't read anything on car aerodynamics in detail, but im assuming the shape in the picture I posted, similar to a aircraft aerofoil would be most efficient, and i saw a couple guys once with maybe 20-30 degrees angle of attack on the rear wing of their car, in hindsight wouldn't this create a shit load of drag and not create any 'lift' downwards???

yeah the even coating is a bitch, i let them settle for a couple hours then threw them in a oven for a hour at 100c ended up repainting the flat spots, then coating the whole lot with darker red caliper paint, looks good, not great

the seal on the R32 comes out in one piece, just cover up and tape the breather holes and the underside. did you look in the paint code section? high temp paint has sweet fook all color options

go back to almost the gear box, then again from behind the rear axle

this is how the red crinkle came out, a bit light for my liking

was going to buy main bolts for the crank cradle off the boys at Chilton, he called a couple ppl and said at 400kw i wont need them, they just distort the shape of the bearings

Got the block back from the shop, had been cleaned but not painted, so wire brushed it down, tred using some high temp primer from the VHT range and had 2 cans of white explode on me, so resorted to red, with a aluminum colour finish, looks good i think block back from the shop taped and primered first coat of aluninium finished, two coats, tape off decked head smint