lingeringsoul

Anyone?

Ok people, one more update not involving spray painting....I should really change the title of this thread to how to fit my bodykit lol Ok its finally fitted and I gotta say, don't hack away ANYTHING without making triple checks that it should be hacked away. I made a small mistake as you can see from that extra small opening that shouldn't be there..... These fibreglass kits are NOT designed for straight fit as soon as the factory kits are off. I had trouble fitting it on first time because I left a few metal clips on the rear wheel arches which made it harder to fit. The extra layer of black plastic in the front wheel well also made it tough to fit it on. So if any of you buy these skirts, remember to take the rear metal clips off and fold the front plastic guards in, that way, it will JUST fit on, which I'm somewhat relieved to say. Drilling holes....well, I'm not going into it, I seem to have uncanny spacial coordination and are able to mark all 4 holes spot on. You'll need to drill into the metal wheel well, but that involves taking the wheels off which is REALLY a bitch to do. For the front, just turn it full lock.

found out I didn't need to cut much anyway....I bought a small $2 junior hack saw to trim bits and pieces off. Used a metal file to clean it up and sand paper to finish it off. Now if only I could undo the mistake of hacking too much away...lol all good..thanks all.

or not.............but you'll still survive..... I should get a damn catch can.

It seems prices have indeed started dropping for the 34 GTR...a V spec II now only 47k seems the dream for some people is becoming more and more achievable. 2 more years

can we PLEASE get a lynch mob to camp out at UNSW?

im tempted NOT to clean it and just give it a coat of matt black every 3 months.

Read HPI today with that Garage Ito GTR........53 seconds.....thats pretty insane, hope you guys go well and beat them. Are you entering in the same class as that car? or the street class with air con and cd?

I know exactly what you mean, it's nice when it's new, but once you start trying to clean it, all manner of crap gets stuck in there. I don't now what they were smoking when they came up with that design.

sounds like something you do on a daily basis stevo.

Paid...bring it on!!!!

thanks man dremel huh......mmmm

I used the angle grinder on the front bar to trim...but hardly an accurate tool as its so hard to control. I' might pop into bunnings tomorrow after work and see what they have. i have a hand held kind of saw but the blade was too wide and couldn't turn too well. I remember back when I was a kid I had a small saw with really thin blades that you cuold twist...and i'm hoping bunnings wil have the ones that look like a knife. fingers cross.....damn i hate not having the right tools, takes 5 times as long.

well that was a waste of 5 minutes of my life and my internet....................he coudl've at least put on a run for us to see....

Well, I'm in the process of fitting on my side skirts, obviously its not going to be a quick bolt on job so, a small amount of cutting is required. i now have two options. Option 1 - use my angle grinder that seems to have life of its own after reaching XXXXXXXrpm or Option 2 - finding a small saw of some sort thats nimble enough for me to actually cut in curves and wont eat up the whole thing if I make a mistake. Anyone got any suggestions? Preferably something cheap and small.

Bump Side skirts SOLD!!!!! Front bar + lights - sold pending payment etc Rear bar still for sale - SOMEONE BUY THIS!!!! aaaannnnddd I've decided not to sell the wheels.

bump from the dark ages

you gotta put your email down and they send you monthly free practice times. They send me a list every month. Just that most of these days are alwasy the small circuit which i really don't want to do anymore.

alrighty.....membership sorted, now just gotta send off my CAMS renewal on Monday and its Friday EC here I come.

Just thought I'd share my progress................no painting so far but I did fit the new front bar on. I guess I'll paint it with it on since i'm too lazy to take it off hahahahha I did a whole DIY on it, should be loaded soon with all the pics.

Greetings DIY fans!!! After spending the last 6 hours working on the it, I have finally succeeded in front end conversion. This is the eBay front bar bought for $260. Time it took: 6 hours First thing I did when I started this was taking the old front bar off and disconnecting all the lights. For me, it was 2 bolts on each side and two bolts in the middle which was also used to hold up the front mount intercooler. When I say bolts, I do mean nuts and bolts. This reason for this is beacuse I've taken the front bar off numerous times before and over the course of time, the orginial factory parts weren't able to hold the bar as well and started to sag. So I took out the plastic bits that was used to screw in the front bar and used nuts and bolts to suppliment. Next step, trial fitting the bar. Better done with two people than one but still managable by yourself. For me, the width of the bar was quite good, so it wasn't too narrow that you had to stretch or too wide that you had to press it. The only problem I had was the N1 vents extending too far in, so it in contact with the reinforcement bar. So off it came and out with the angle grinder. I tried to cut it with hack saw but not enough room to maneuver so I continued on with the grinder. It didn't need much taken off, just a a centermeter all around. Once thats done, it went back on again to see how it lines up. You should have someone hold onto one end and you try to get to the other end to make sure it goes on well. This time, it still touched but I didn't need to worry about mroe because both sides of the bar lined up nicely so it up to the next step. This front bar had more than enough room in the front to clear the front mount and piping. There was no work needed on that. Drilling holes is a lot more difficult than I thought. It wasn't the drilling that was hard, it was finding out where to drill. At this point, a marker would come in very handy, especially small ones as it does get a bit tricky to maneuver around in there. Basically after you've taken off the plastic bits the original front bar screws onto, it should leave you with a small square. Just color in the section of the bar that lines up with the square and drill a hole in there. Do this on the corners first (the part closest to the wheels). Once thats done, fit them on and stick your hand in there and draw the square for the second hole (this is the hole closer to the front). Take the bar off. Drill the holes and screw that on with the nuts and bolts. At this point I'd like to mention that I used a medium sided bolt for this task. I just thought if I used small ones, it's not going to hold up as nice and it might weaken the area and tear through it. If I use the bolts too big, then the holes I'm going to drill will weaken the side and again become useless. I measured the distance between the hole cloest to the wheel and the hole closer to the front, it's around 15.5 cm. Now getting to the front end section of the bar. I basically shaved the front bit off a little so it didn't interfer with thte grill. I was going to drill 3 in the front, take the screws for the front mount off and attach it all of it together. But then the other 4 side bolts are doing a fine job of holding it up I decided just to use the one in the centre. That took me the better part of the morning. But by noon, it was looking good. Next part comes the indicators. I picked up a set of GTR clear indicator on yahoo japan for a very reasonable price including the plastic grill. Now, the grill has a piece of plastic on the side sticking out and a screw on the other side for screwing it in. So I'd need to chop an opening on the side large enough for the plastic bit to fit in so that grill will sit nicely. Generally, just measure the length of the plastic bit, and chop a little. I didn't have the right tools obvously, so I had to improvise. Now because it's going to be covered up when the gril goes on, it didn'tmatter how pretty you did it. I just drill about 5 holes side by side, used a round metal file to finish it off. Referr to pic for a rough location and side of the hole. All thats left is the small hole to drill on the opposite end of the grill. Make sure you use a small drill as thereisn't much room left on the side. Once thats done, but the plastic grill on and you're half done. Rewiring - I was very lucky to find that one side of indicator had a damaged plug. So the previous owner had it cut the wire and used the rely (i think thats what they are called) to reoconnect. I unplugged it, turned the ignition on and proceeded to randomly plug the relys into the indicator. I got lucky on the first try. The only wire that isn't used is the one with blue in it. I asuumed thats the one for the fog light. (I'm hoping to reuse that connection so that when I turn the fog light on, it'll turn on both the indicators......just for novelty purpose). I went to the local hardware store before they closed and bought myself a pack of relys. Cut the lines off and connected two wires onto the relays and plug it in. Tested it out and it was working perfectly. Unplugged it, put the round indicator back into the grill housing and we are onto the last step. I originally just wanted to drill two holes in the front and bolt up the number plates, but that seemed a little slack after all the effort I put into to make it look perfect. So I decided to use the bracket from the old front bar for a more professional fitting. I took the number plate off the S2 bar and man they used a lot of brackets in there, I don't know what they were smoking when they designed it. It was so needlessly complicated. As I only needed a small bracket, I just took off the top one to use. (There are still 3 more pieces connected to each of the bracket). Anywho, I drilled the holes and bolted it up with my remaining bolts. I lined up the number plate and took two very good guess at the holes and drilled it. I'm sure RTA isn't going to be too thrilled with me drilling their plates (it is theirs right) but considering the shit I had to pay them on a yearly basis, they can suck bollocks. I used the orignial black screws to hold the plate. Once that's all fitted, I went back and refitted the front bar and attached the wiring as well. Tested everything out and it was working perfectly. So there you have it folks, all done. I thought it was going to be more complicated but I guess planning does help make things easier. Sorry about the quality of the photos, dad hid the good camera. Edit: took off the photos with my car number plate on it, will load up a couple of blurred out one later on.

I'm going to cram in as many trackdays as possible between now and end of December just to make up for not doing any this year. There's autosport one on Dec 15th at wakie whcih i'll be going with my workmate.

the old concept didn't seem to have the right proportion...........although I don't know why they didn't stick to the second concept is beyond me....so much more aggressive. I can see potential owners having custom cf plates on order alreadty, transforming it back to the 2nd concept

yeah im adding myself to the mystry idle club as well. It was varying anywhere between 500-1100, had the O2 sensor replaced and it was well for the first month but then it started playing up again. Can't be another dead O2 sensor can it?

number skylines like R33.324832984 is god damn gay, reminds me of the ns.com boys that keep coming up with gay names....look at my S13.5, S15.3, S14.80.