unarmed_skyline

well i bought a burnt out shell cause i wrote off my old car and the shell has abs and airbags where-as mine didnt so when i swapped over the wiring i dont have any looms to connect the abs or airbags so im trying to do it custom i've done most of the airbags rather easily but the abs was almost completely burnt out so im not sure what wires go to where would be a lot easier to determin if i had a proper wiring diagram

Did you end up finding one??

have you tried cranking over crank with a ratchet just to make sure it hasnt seized, if it hasn't as long as when you changed all your electrics over you put your series 1 coil packs and igniter over then you should use the series 1 ecu and it should work. only thing left is a loose connection or blown fuse or realy, easist to pull out all the fuses check if they are ok, i dun remember how to check relays mabye try swaping the mayor ones around if there are any and smell then see if they smell burnt out, then if that fails start checking ALL of your connections you have made make sure everything is hooked up and hooked up correctly and properly

i threw the rb out i was running more power with 6 hiclones and my petrol rc motor in the 33, i got low 10's last quarter i ran.

GRR triipple post internet stuffed up

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if you put the terminals on backwards i would say the main realy woulda blown but as long as you havent done that it should be fine, its designed to jump start the car so i couldnt do any damage just wont charge the battery effectivly

its ok to do it in the car but you have to charge it at the battery and not under the bonnet threw the electrical system

lol i rekon the search buttons gotta be my best friend he doesnt care if i push he's button all day he still comes up with the goods

have you checked all your wires i would say you may have missed a ground wire or a blow fuse if you got no power anywhere

how much for gtr side skirts??

hey im after both front crash sensors are you willing to separate them from the airbag stuff?? if so pm me a price + delivery to melb

yeh i need an interia loom wiring diagram too been looking for like 3-4 weeks and havent found one, i'd be happy to buy a manual but i've got a couple that i downloaded and they dont have the interia loom on them only accessery ones and the ebay ones seem the same so i dont wana buy one that doesnt have it n i dont think haynes or gregory make them for skylines grrr

we've got a parts cleaner at work, duno what chemicals it uses thou

do you know if they are the same as series 1 gtst's?? cause if they are i have an immaculate set no frays in melb

im probably going to get an rb25 one but i havent decided on a design yet, ill get back to you when i make my mind up

mmm i need all front end parts for my 33 that im building its so temting to do this to it, although i just bout some wide 33 front gaurds so id have to sell them first. does anyone know if you have to swap the front rad supports over like you do with the strawberry 180s?? i know you need bonnet, bonnet lock hinges headlights gaurds and bar

i can get you the s2000 ones for about $150ish i think mabye a little less

where do i sign to buy one??

hey if youve got a series 1 non air bag r33 and it ends up being the stalk give me a pm i've got one i would happily sell to you.

i dont know why they would tee into the carbon canistor for the bov as the standart nipple on the manifold is there for the bov but its blocked off. i've done a turbo conversion on an na rb25 and i had a similar problem and it ended up being the car was going to rich and retard because the afm's couldnt handle the boost and in turn failed i also had fuel starvation problems with the na ecu and and safc and had to upgrade to aftermarked ecu. So if i were you i would try swapping for a series 1 turbo ecu and a turbo afm and fix the bov pressure line and see if that fixs your prob. i would also recomend a boost gauge as if it hads a different actuator you may be running higher than standard boost which is a no no with a turboed na. also do you know if fuel pump or injectors have been changed at least to turbo items if not better?? cause they would be next on my list to check,

cubes thats exactly how i though it all worked but i dont have one so cant comment either way

if the new pump is capible of flowing more fuel at the same pressure yes you will run rich, you would need an adjustable fuel press reg to tune it to optimum presure then you might be able to squese a little bit out of the upgrade but its really not worth it at all untill you neer to or over the flow rate of the current fuel pump, if youve upgraded a lots of things already, ie exhause intake cams, ecu, or turbo conersion ect then yes you will need one but on a stock car its pointlesss

i duno exactly for na to turbo rear breaks but i could check cause i do have both sitting in my driveway, but i know that almost all cars with disc's at the rear run drum breaks for the handbreak, i cant see y they would change the set-up or even how they could change the set-up for na to turbo, so im quite sure that they would have an inner handbreak and outer disc's for the breaks. i think that the workshop you called probperly just couldnt be bothered, because i know silvias use na 33 brakes as un upgrade then turbo brakes for 5 stud set-ups, i think the main difference is the disc size i dont think you can put na calipers over turbo discs because they are too fat but and like wise the na's are too thin for turbo calipers but if you are transfering everything it should be ok just make sure you get a brake booster too otherwise you'll have less pedal and more sloppy feel. if your not willing to go with the swap just upgrade your pads and disc's at ther rear that should be enough of an upgrade to take a tubo conversion or more power ect. ps HAME leagly you will have to have at least the equvelent of turbo brakes for it to be leagal and roadworthy, if you get pulled over they might dick you!

exhaust shop or nissan will sell them!