unarmed_skyline

de+t anyday thats coming from me who's done it, pretty easy to do yourself just make sure u research it properly otherwise u will spend big dollars fixing what u could have done right easily. I've drive quite a few diffrent powered skylines na's and turbos and my de+t is so much more fun than any of the more powerfull ones i've driven. i would suggest minimum needed is turbo/exhaust water lines and oil lines. Ecu turbo one ppl say is fine i chose aftermarket, fuel pump, crossover pipe with bov, either fpr or injectors and cooler, all stock items will do fine and can be picked up cheap Have seen all above parts go as pakage for around 1K if u search then upgrade as necessecary when you want like a turbo car. For that kinda outlay i dont think it quilifyes the stuff around of sell and buying a gtst pm me if you need any help im more than happy to provied any info of how i did mine,

just wondering is it illegal/unroadworthy to remove the abs, I though if it came standard on the car then it has to be in working order or canary not that they would know but i'm building up a car from a shell and having a bitch of a time with abs wiring would be so much easier if life permitted me not to have it

i guess 60k bare no ancilaries

if its busted in the end i got a full set of series 1 r33 seat belts in melb, imaculate condishion pm me if your interested

$110's pretty good, lol i work at a Honda try getting a new engine mount for less the $250 haha some of them are $500+ for the liquid filled ones

sorry guys im a bit lazy here some photos i've been really lazy and havent worked on the car in like 4 weeks but its different from above pics, the engine is in not startable cause i havent put oils n fueses in, um cooler trial mounted, radiator trial mounted i put my wide fenders and front bar temporarly on to see how they going to look. other than that i've bout a few things and put together most of the interia. Whats left Full spray job buy and fit side skirts and rear skirt put the tailshaft back in buy new tyres fit sway bars put engine fueses back in top up all fluids fix turbo coolant lines buy and bit belts wire in stereo and thermo fan controller um buy headlights wire in airbags & abs and thats it not tooo much left prob get it done if i take a couple of weeks of work and have some spare dosh [attachment 125894:14102007.jpg]

+1 love it

weight 1740kg L/W/H 4655/1895/1370mm Wheelbase 2780mm Towue 588Nm @3200-5200rpm Power 348kW @ 6400rpm readline/cut-out 7000/75000rpm Bore/Stroke 95.5/88.4mm Compression 9.0:1 Estimated aus cost $160,000 due here early 2009 Rumers of inbuild Playstation Theres nothing on this car you would want to change im going to put aside my spare $160 and know that im 1/1000 of the way there to buying one

im in melb i've got a set immauclate condishion hows $150 including a brake booster plus delevery

hey ill take your 33 series 2 grill off you for $30, im in knox like 5 mins down the road

Trent how can they change the epa rules for older cars thou?? i though all the emmissions laws are for current model cars and not back dated. Also what would that do for the non-gen stuff that are copies of the gen stuff wouldnt that still be classed as a cat back?

xenons are illegal in aus unless they self focus or something which 34 ones dont so you would have to put non-xenons

in melb theres 2 that i know of both of witch doo excellent work, ace alloy wheel repairs and advance alloys do a search on google and you'll find em both of em are in morrabbin melbourne

the best way to do it 100% perfect would be to pay someone to do it for you but if you dont want to fork out the doe as i wouldnt want to sand them back and buy some spray can etch primer standard primer acrilic gloss paint and clear coat and follow the instructions on the can. you could get away without the etch primer or clear coat but if you want the best finish then go the whole hog

nah shouldnt be too pricy just test the wires and if thats it go to wreckers and grab an injector wire harness couldnt be more than $100 for one of those i dont think.

if its not blown ill quite happily buy it off you for $300

mm sounds like wiring to me +12 volts going down Ground wire will blow the fuses like that

pity i just bought a new daily driver this week i woulda bought it, if you still got it in 3 weeks pm me i should have enough cash then to make you an offer.

sounds like a good idea more air flow into the pipes could help some. love hear if anyones done it

hot wrx free bump, ps i passed your add onto a friends who's looking for a wrx atm

when you say you dont have any spark or inj do you mean the starter try's to crank it but it doesnt turn over just going tick tick tick?? are both the injectors and spark not working how have you tested for both? is the fuel pump priming? Try swaping with a known good series 1 ecu, make sure the ignitor pack is plugged in properly, double check you havent missed pluggin in any of the connections. are the ignigtor packs known to be good?? stupid question but did you transfer over your spark plugs sometimes people forget the obvious things.

also abs is on the left side of the car that looks to me like it goes either down the drivers side or next to the gear box tunnel??

yeh thats cool dont have to be in place i can work that out any help is better than none, thanks for that, dont rush just when you get a chance i've still got lots of things to do on the car to occupy me before i tackle abs i've almost got the car startable but no where neer drivable.

well mines the oppisite lol, i've got the rear clip but not the front section of the wiring it was burnt up into the pasenger footwell everything from there back was ok, it would be greatly apreciated if you could post some pictures or if you in melb mabye i could come down have a look at it in person.

ill take it for the $1200 price tag on the id,