Jump to content
SAU Community

DVS JEZ

Members
  • Posts

    5,061
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by DVS JEZ

  1. Yep good idea. Try it 1st and see the results.
  2. To save confusion next time get the 4 pin. Only 1 87 then. Have u fitted it all
  3. Your right man. My bad. When there is 87a it is connected to 30 even though the coil is not energised. But when the coil gets energised then 87a is not connected.
  4. 87 and 87a are both positive outs. U can use either. They are the same thing
  5. Yep. 85 and 86 have to complete a circuit from power to ground. So +ve can go to either. And the other one has to be earthed. But this is where the trigger comes into it. Eg: +ve trigger goes to 86 and 85 has to be grounded to the chassis. Or -ve trigger goes to 86 and 85 has to be from a 12 volt switched( meaning only when key is on) When 85 and 86 have a completed circuit this energises the coil and pushes the circuit closed between 87 and 30 (the coil is like a reverse magnet, which pushes the bridge closed as per 89cal's diagram above)
  6. What ecu? Have u done all the basics. Service parts, fule filter air filter spark plugs ? Have u ever set the tps position?
  7. Replace the water pump while ur in there too
  8. Yes 89 cal that is fine. That horn setup uses a 12volt trigger to to pin 85 to energise the coil.
  9. Thats because im unsure if ur car has a negative trigger. If its negative trigger this uses the ecu trigger wire as an earth. If its positive trigger than then relays earth wire needs to be grounded to the chassis. Understand? Thats why i have posted different options. But try my last post above 1st which uses the stock positive and negative into the relay. This should work fine. U have my number. Its in my sig. If ur unsure when u do it just call me.
  10. Yep get a nistune. I also recommend a highflow turbo. Running thr stock turbo at 14 psi is on the edge. Might kill the turbo
  11. 3inch with 2 big mufflers. Will be free flowing and still be quiet
  12. Lol. Yeah it says 200 for nistune. But only for q45 throttle body install. Or u could just Connect to consult and try a throttle sweep to see if it is working correctly. Then connect a wideband sensor and start the car to monitor the afr. Because nistune uses a airflow meter there shouldnt be any issue but always better to check. If however u had an ecu with a map sensor then a retune would be necessary
  13. Please dont make me type that again. I think i have explained it enough times. Im wearing out my key pad.
  14. Just connect the power wire going into the fuel pump now to pin 86 (test with a test light, or disconnect one plug at a time to see which powers the fuel pump. Car will stall) then test light on that plug to find positive when the pump primes(initial key on) Connect the negative wire that is going to the fuel pump to pin 85 on relay. This should make the relay click(turns on) when u turn the key on. Leave key on and make sure the relay clicks again (turns off) if it doesnt let me know. Dont drive the car if this relay doesnt turn off or there a risks if u have a crash. Then if the above is all good. Connect 87 to the fuel pump power in ( the old positive wire to the pump) and the kicker amp wire to pin30. Then turn the key on. The pump should prime and then turn off. Then go for a drive and see if the issue is fixed.
  15. Yeh cause jaycar will pay for ur car if it burns to the ground. The fuse in the bonnet is good for ur thick stereo wiring. If it shorts out and it gets hot enough to blow the 60amp fusr (or 100amp depending which u have). But if ur fuel pump shorts out all the wiring except for the thick amp wiring will cause a fire. Mount it where ever but its easiest in the boot. U only need to run 1 wire which in ur case is already there. Ur way requires finding the correct ecu wiring then run it to ur fuse. Then run a power wire all the way to the fuel pump. Both will work. 1 is easier. Im on the central coast not newcastle. Took michael 1 hr from cronulla to get to my place.
  16. Ill come for a drive down rewire the pumps then if u can organise a dyno and ill get em both done. Just do the power runs on the dyno do the rest on the road. Then do some Tandem skids
  17. Anything is possible. If ur good at fab work and making a custom fuel pump lid so u can run the 2 lines out. Get ur tuner to check why the cat light flickers before u assume its injector duty. Just to make sure its nothing else.
  18. Just go to supercheap. Get the same Basic relay with fuse. Get some crimp terminals and a crimper if u dont have one. Yeah michael i can do that for u
  19. Keep the power fc. Will yeild the same Results.
  20. A thermometer would be a cheap way to check. Or a infrared thermometer if u can get one to use. Or even cheaper turn the heater on and see if its hot like normal
  21. try bleeding the cooling system again. Run the engine with the radiator cap off from a cold start. See if any air bubbles come out. But do it with the front of the car jacked up so the radiator is higher than the top of head
  22. As long as the star drive is still ok then it wont slip. The key way is just there for ease of install. Basically without the key way u need to guess where the cas alignment should be. Try and start it a see if its correct. Might take a couple of goes or u might get it first go. Then check with a timing light and set the timing.
  23. Honestly i think that wins the longest opening post without pictures. What is the main reason for working out the flow of the pumps? Have u got a stock and a n1 to compare? Might have a different pitch om the blades
×
×
  • Create New...