DVS JEZ

yeah do a compression test, is it burning oil(blue smoke)?

my setup is built rb26, forged but not stroked, poncams 260 9.15, T04z .7 front 1.0 rear housing, running 24psi with fuel supporting mods, power 416.9kw with stock afmeters, lag till 4 then full boost hits hard, hope this helps

k cheers. thought i was getting out of it cheap too. Dammit. time to start saving again. thanks for help.

How do I hook up the D-Jetro Map Sensor Harness Kit? There are various installation methods for the Djetro Map Sensor depending on the Car Model. For example Evo Lancer CT9A do not have to do anything as the car runs a factory Map Sensor. Skyline RB26 customers must splice twin Map sensor into the Airflow meter harness wiring. Nissan S15 customers must also manually splice a single Map Sensor into the harness. Below are instructions on how Skyline RB26 customers should connect up the Djetro kit. It appears that D-jetro customers must splice the twin map sensors into the Boost Control Kit harness (or at least use the sme port) to extract positive and negative power. The signal for each MAP sensor is then connected to Cylinders #3 and #4 based on the Apexi diagram below is this only if you have the special power fc?

thanks fella's ill read the faq now, yeah i was looking at the z32's but then i thought of getting rid of them, maybe an autronic, was just weighing up some options. seems like z32's will be the go, then i can put in some c16 and up the boost to about 28psi should see some good numbers

plastigauge it to see which cap is binding?

am after everyones opinions on running a D-Jetro, currently have Rb26 forged internals, T04Z on 24Psi, 260 9.15 poncams, 044 sard 800cc etc and am running a power fc with stock afmeters, seeing 416.9kw at the wheels i want to get rid of the Afmeters as they are restricting the power. can i just get the map sensors, loom and nipples and fit up and still keep my power fc that is in the car at the moment???? want to get my 10second pass, but want to get the best 10 second pass i can cause i only get 1 go at it. if i get under a 10.9 they will more than likely not let me race again until roll cage etc. all help and advice appreciated. Cheers Jez

sounds like they have swappedthe cam caps around, my machine shop did it about 4 weeks ago to mine, they snapped my cam when they bolted it in but, they swapped the cam caps around and its all good now

up for sale today is all the hicas parts and all the aircon parts (except fan and evaporator) removed from my 32GTR. Condenser with R/Drier 100 lines 20 compressor 100 bracket for compressor 30 Hicas pump 75 rack 90 linesfrom h/pump to rack 15 location Central coast NSW call or msg 0414879711 cheers Jez

pm sent

try adjusting your clutch a bit too, i couldnt get into 2nd or 3rd at high rpm, adjusted my clutch and now its beautiful,

what sort of boost are they running at for 400kw's? my T04Z 1.0rear runs 24psi for 416awkw on RB26

hey TriniGT what engine are you running? here is a pic of my rear oil drain setup. it goes into the rear oil drain for the twin turbo setup on a GTR

if the crank angle sensor is buggered you wouldnt have any fuel or spark UNLESS: the crank angle sensor has broken its shaft and spinning intermittantly and firing etc but at the wrong time, i had this problem with my car (front cover removed but crank sensor bolted up) snapped the shaft, also check the keyway at the end of the crank angle sensor spline isnt broken

that doesnt eliminate the coils at all... only if the miss is at idle...which its not. try a new set of coils dude, swap with a mate or something, cheaper than going to a shop,

is that with stock cams? i was told with my poncams no cam gears are necessary, any one tried cam gears with poncams wih good results?

rb26 forged internals, PFC, 800ccsard,bosch 044pump, garrett T04Z .7 front 1.0 rear housing, full boost by 4-4500, doesnt diue off boost at all, holds past 8500rpm. excellent turbo

if you need to turn the motor over by hand then on the biggest of the pulleys(crank pulley) there will be a bolt, think its 1 1/4 inch and a breaker bar from under the car and turn it clock wise. make sure you check the dipstick to see if there is still oil in the sump before you start it, disconnect the crank angle sensor which is found on the top front of motor near top of fan, good luck

what sort of power band are you talking? my full boost is by about 4-4500 to 8500 is that any suitable for track racing? how responsive are the twin setups? when are they seeing full boost

i agree with that too, ive had no experience with curcuit yet, lag is heaps annoying, its good for dynos and winning comps etc, reason for my comment is my neighbour races his mini(yes totally different) and is always in the high revs, probably due to gearing etc

2nd that actually, theyre getting old now

im using a T04Z on 24psi, got 570AWHP, it is quite laggy, but i guess that on the curcuit your always up in the high revs,

do you have any mates with the same car? you need to try swapping coils, igniter etc, i know you said you cleaned plugs but how old are they? have you gapped them down to .7ish