battery

1k if you get me a RWC

alright so apparently the new kit is about 10mm difference in length. the workshop reckons the r32 has two different sizes of flywheels and i must have got the wrong kit? the car had a manual conversion at some stage and i have no idea what box/clutch/pressure plate/flywheel they put in it may not even be from a skyline . anyway the workshop is gonna suss it out!

its quite easy to take the master cylinder out with a uni-joint and an extension. i got the full adjustment out of mine but it still isn't enough!

doubt its cracked, but will check. i didn't measure the difference, this seems to be the only explanation!

mate, you have the same problem as me let me know if you find a solution!

been at the workshop a few days now they still haven't figured it out.... im thinking it must be something to do with the thickness difference between the old and new flywheel/clutch/pressure plate combos.... it works when i lever it with a screwdriver so im fairly sure its not stuck in the spigot, it could be a bent clutch i guess which it explains why it needs so much movement to disengage.... then again people say the fork should be at 90 degrees to the box when disengaged mine is about 60...... but im getting a good 15mm movement from the slave. it will work if i use a bigger slave rod or put washers behind the pivot point but then the clutch will never full engage because the slave bottoms out. anyone got any ideas?

paid $120 at a wreckers once when i was in a rush

i want a stock one for an r32 got any? pm me

hey guys, im sick of having no car to drive cause the skyline is constantly off the road. im after a daily driver not very fussy just want something that can get a roadworthy with little to no work... utes vans cars ill look at anything as long as its less than $1000 any one got anything? im in VIC SE suburbs. PM ME!

what about weight reduction what have you done?

well it was reckless of you to be "driving in a rush" on a wet day....

so i changed the spigot, it is now perfect im 100% sure this time. but still couldn't select gears!!!! so put a washer in between pivot ball and fork to get the thurst bearing closer to plate, it worked briefly then i guess the washer flattened out, it was a cone type. problem is the slave was bottomed out when clutch pedal was out so im guessing this will make the clutch slip due to the thurst bearing still being against the pressure plate. agreed? im out of ideas, gonna take it to a workshop i think!

saw an xtrail with nismo sticker, fail!

ill pick it up for 400

pulled the box off again, found a few small bits of the new spigot in the pressure plate, im fairly sure i needed to push it in a bit so ill get a new one tomorrow and try again! how far in should it be? i had it about 2-4mm out of the hole should it be flush or right to the back of the hole?

the ANTI LOCK light will not go out could this be related?

so i changed my clutch, pressure plate,thrust bearing and spigot bush this weekend and put a different flywheel on too. now i still have the car on the stands but when i have the engine running it wont let me put the car in to gear, its like the clutch isn't engaging? i had a look under the car while somebody pressed the clutch and the fork seems to be moving fine.... i have not bled the system but theres defiantly pressure in the pedal. its the first time i have done a clutch so im not 100% if i put the thrust bearing in correctly has anyone got any pics of how it should be. any ideas i really don't want to pull the bloody thing out again!

no idea what you need but the best thing to do is buy one and test that it fits on the input shaft before you install it in the crank!

mate i have just had the same problem TODAY! i found that the new spigot bush i put in was too small for the input shaft, so i grabbed my dremel and grinded down the inside of the spigot. the box was still 1cm out so i just put a few bolts in the bell housing and tighten till it was flush! bastard of a job! let us know how you go!

i had horrible misfiring from my coils and the loom was in really bad shape, my solution was to make up a completely new loom from the ignitor and solder the wire straight to the plugs pins then i cleaned the coil contacts and taped them up. the tape only lasts 5000-10000ks so next time i plan to use some good quality heat shrink or i might try silicone. it works well, i don't see the point in wasting 500-600 for spitfires sure i agree that it will give you a better spark but meh its a 20 year old $8k r32 why bother.

he can do it in 2 hours?

what are they like in the wet though? how much per corner in what size?

the tuner didn't talk to you about boost? where did you get it done? some people wont run more than 10psi on the stock engines, 18 is high i'd be happy with 1 bar, but alot of people would say less!

so which would make boost earlier? 2510 or rb20 hi-flow?

location?