dan.1337

THANKS! found the tutorial and will try it very soon =) link for anyone who is curious: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=aac+valve

Since yesterday my idle has been revving from 600rpm to 1000rpm and then dropping back to 600 and doing it all over again. It happens when my engine is warm and at operating temperature. I was told the map sensor is very sensitive and a bad batch of fuel could be affecting the tune, so it is hunting on idle. Would anyone konw what's going on? Thanks!

can u guarantee it'll fit a skyline? i'm in melbourne so can't really try before i buy.

1989 Nissan Skyline GTS-T Type-M I am selling my pride and joy. I have only owned it since March this year and am extremely reluctant to sell as it is a fantastic car, but I can't afford to use it as my daily driver anymore. I drive almost 600km a week due to my new job being far from home and a turbo car is not working out to be cheap to run when driving long distances in urban traffic. I have personally only done less than 3000km in it but have spent a fortune on getting it up to the condition its in now. It has been tuned by my mechanic who is an extremely capable guy. He has worked on many race cars and his work is second to none. Power comes on extremely smoothly and pulls like there is no tomorrow. Here are the specs: Engine: 5 speed manual RB20DET (126,***km's) Denso 550cc injectors (not the cheap rx7 ones) HKS 2530 turbo HKS adjustable cam gears HKS intercooler (unknown size - came with car) Bosch 040 fuel pump NGK Platinum spark plugs K&N pod filter (stock air box will be provided) GTSLink ECU (12 months of warranty left) Exedy heavy duty clutch Exhaust: 3 inch turbo back exhaust with hi-flow cat Stereo & Interior: 7' LCD screen with inbuilt DVD player Pioneer front splits Pioneer rear 6x9's Cadence 4 channel amp Climate control Blitz boost guage Greddy turbo timer (not connected) Alarm + remote start (3 point system?) Brakes & handling: Type-M 4 piston front calipers RDA slotted rotors (1000km old) Front and rear strut braces Wheels & Tyres: 16' stock wheels with 95% (1500km) Hankook K104s (receipts provided) Exterior: Nissan Factory Type-M 'Sports Tuning Kit 1' Darkest legal tint Full respray in pearl black - car was originally black OEM sunroof Tuned for 190rwkw at 1.1bar (16psi) to protect and extend the life of the engine and parts. I will take photos over the weekend and post them up then. It basically looks stock from the outside with the Type-M kit and does not attract any attention from the police. The picture below is what it looked like when I bought it. The only thing that has changed is that I got rid of the ugly 18's and replaced then with stockies and brand new tyres. I am slightly negotiable on price, but please don't throw me any ridiculous offers as I am in no absolute rush to sell. I want to sell it to someone who I know will take care of it, let it see the track every so often and to not write it off. It is an '89, but you'll be hard pressed to find a better running R32 out there now. All the hard work has been done and all power mods and supporting systems are in place and tuned which would usually cost thousands of dollars. Rego expires next April (9 months left). I may be willing to swap for a dc2r with cash adjustment your way, but nothing else. Please, no tyre kickers. I don't have the time for you. I am free only after 6:30pm on weekdays and most weekends due to work. I am looking for offers around $14,500 negotiable. Contact me on dan.1337@gmail.com or 0402502537. I am located in inner eastern melbourne. Daniel (now has stockies)

i wish the cops did that in my area. we have a park opposite our place and there are always kids making a sh1tload of noise at night. even tho we haven't been targeted yet, there's quite a lot of theft on our street and car break ins. i'm always worried about our car outside. i've had my details taken down for standing outside my ex's (then gf) house waiting for her to come out. i wasn't even with friends.

I feel less lonely now that someone else has the same economy as me haha What mods do u have? I did 318km on 51L for my last fill.

Thanks for that info, I think that I will remove the shims to give a bit of clearance between the disc and pad. Hopefully they don't rub anymore after that.

I work in Bayswater so i went to pay Racepace a visit at lunchtime. Nice guys there, extremely tidy workshop but they only really do GTR's. If I had a GTR, i'd take mine there.

Checked another Autobarn. They have it for $34.99 per 500ml bottle. Sounds pricey. Is that about right? Castrol dot 4 is only $10.

Just wondering where I can get Motul RBF600 in the east of melbourne. Preferably between Richmond and Bayswater. I checked Autobarn and Repco and I dont' think they stock it.

i replaced both of my bulbs with H3C's. got them from my local Repco. took them about 4 hours to order and deliver to them as they didn't stock them.

After my tune, first tank: 303.3km/52L. Second tank is looking slightly better. Most of my driving is peak hour with moderate stop start traffic. HKS 2535, Bosch 040, Denso 550cc injectors, Link ECU, turbo back exhaust, pod, cooler. I think its making around 190rwkw on 1.1bar. Not enough k's for my liking =|

I'm down in Kew. A local meet wouldn't be a bad idea?

Is only using 3 of the 4 shims bad? I haven't been braking hard due to my worries about this. Also, what would I use to clamp my brake line? And where would I clamp it?

Yup, will be getting them to drop the pads in. It's really only a 2 min job.

Yup, i cleaned them with a paint thinner to remove all that rust protectant stuff. I'll probably replace the pads with the flush too.

Thanks for that link! Looks like the smart choice would be to do a full flush and then i'll see how it goes. Will probably take it to a brakes place to get it done cos I have no idea how to do it myself.

if i did that, wouldn't it mean air would get into the brake line from the nipple to the clamp? i might just do a full bleed and replace of fluid. its probably due for it anyway. Will bleeding my brakes and replacing the fluid with dot 5/5/5.1 improve my brake response and feel?

I recently installed new front discs on my r32. I have the 4 pot calipers. I had a bit of trouble getting the pads back in and to get them to fit, i have put in only 3 out of 4 shims. Firstly, is that a bad thing to be using only 3/4 shims? Next, the pads still rub on the disc. I can spin the disc with my hands but it does take effort and they are definitely rubbing. I had A LOT of trouble trying to push the pistons further into the caliper just to get whatever shims i could back in. Is there a way of me getting the pistons further back into the caliper? Will I have to just bleed the brakes? I'm also not happy with the performance of my brakes. They just don't seem to bite, even after 300km of driving around with the new discs. Could this be an issue with the brake fluid/pads/something else? Sorry about the amount of questions. Hopefully you can help me with these problems =)

i'm not looking for the economy of a prius or excel. definitely didn't buy the car to save the world. just thought that 300km to a tank is a bit low, i'd even be happy with between 350-400 which isn't all that far away from what i'm getting now. just unsure why i can't sqeeze out that extra 50-100km esp when i'm driving off boost a lot of the time. my injectors are Denso 550cc. direct drop in for the engine so i don't think they're from an rx7 (unless i'm wrong). my car was tuned recently. it used to run extremely rich (almost on the verge of flooding the engine) and everything on the inside has been blacked out with carbon deposits. i was told by my tuner that over time the crap will be spat out of the system and economy should improve again. i don't think he's a crap tuner as one of my friends who has had his tuned by the same guy with almost the same mods gets 400 to the tank each time. i might go thru a couple more tanks of petrol first and see if things get better. each time i drive little black spots of carbon which have been softened by the exhaust condensation is spat out (quite a lot of it) - so i know that something is heading in the right direction. will be holding off on the ebc for a little while. thanks for the all the insight tho!

I forgot to add, if it matters, about 50% of my driving is in peak hour traffic.

Thats what I thought. If I'm not really pushing air into my motor (<0 on boost guage), then lowering my boost will not help. Almost all my shifts are below 3000rpm unless I need to overtake those new trams. Damn they're fast. hmmmmmmmmm

I'm just thinking that when I'm off boost, it drives like a normal 2L engine (rb20) and when on boost, that's when the air + fuel etc come in. Is that true? Or when I'm running below 3000rpm the turbo is still spinning and pushing air into my engine? If anything, when I'm giving it stick it's between 4000-6000rpm but i'm not sure if I'm on full boost during that time as I'm too busy watching where I'm going and not my boost guage. I was told that my dropping my boost pressure below 10psi, I'll get better fuel economy. Right now, i'm running 16pounds. If it helps, here are my mods: rb20det HKS 2535 550cc injectors Link ECU Bosch 040 cooler, pod, 3" full exhaust. i'm currently getting exactly 300km to the tank.

I have a really n00b question. If i drive 80% of the time off boost (<3000rpm), will lowering my boost help with fuel economy? imo, i say no. but then again, i'm not actually sure. Can anyone enlighten me on it? Thanks!

its the vapour and air mixture that ignites fuel. just take the necessary precautions, ground yourself, disconnect the battery and don't have ur phone with u buzzing away.