dan.1337

I have a full set of R33 stockies with tyres. They're painted black but in overall good condition. PM me if interested.

+1 for Pedders South Melbourne too Great bunch of guys who are very friendly and helpful.

Do you need super large brakes? Using your stock brakes, would a good brake cooling setup, high temp fluids, good pads and a two piece disc like DBA5000 suffice?

I left my R33 for about 6 weeks, drove it for 15 mins then left it for another 2 weeks. It'll probably be another 4 weeks before I drive it again. DIdn't disconnect battery, tank was full from the last time I drove it and everything was fine. Car started first time, no flat spots on tyres. Checked coolant and that was a little low (have a leaky radiator which I need to replace) so I've topped that up and it should be fine to sit for another 4 weeks. I think you'll be fine to just leave it for 4 weeks at a time. If it's months then i think people start to look at rotating tyres and putting trickle chargers on it.

Where are you located?

I used a house brand (Repco) electrical tape which cost me $1 for the roll. I assume you're in Canada from your name, so to explain, Repco is just a standard auto parts store. My opinion is that the silicone is what's sealing it and the tape is just an extra measure on top in case I didn't get a 100% seal. Also lasted a full track day with no missing.

I'm using an RDA slotted/DS2500 combo with RBF600 fluid. Worked well at Winton two weeks ago and had no problems with fade.

Found this while cleaning the inside of my 33 when I first got it. Probably isn't real, but I'll get it checked out anyway.

Had no problems with RDA slotted and dimpled at a track day today

Good luck with finding your car. I worry about mine too as it's parked on the street.

Changing all your busted bushes will help tighten things up. Even more so if they're poly bushes instead of rubber. How old are your shocks? Old shocks will be soft and sloppy. Also, I think it's a generalisation to put all Pedders shops into the 'bad' basket. The one I go to in Melbourne (South Melbourne) has always been honest and really gone out of their way to help to get things over the line.

To answer my own question, I tried using the red RTV silicone gasket maker, wrapped my coilpacks in electrical tape and took my car for a drive. Car didn't misfire from 5000rpm+, but now sometimes hunts on idle. Will see how it holds up after Haunted Hills this Saturday!

I don't have that Selley's high temp silicon at home, but I do have red RTV silicone gasket maker which takes temps up to 343C. http://www.permatex.com/products/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-high-temp-red-rtv-silicone-gasket-detail Would this work in the same way that the Selley's would?

I recently purchased a S2 R33 for track work and second car duties. Main reasons over the 32 were - cheaper, updated technology (chassis, suspension, engine, brakes, etc), more parts, more flexible engine (doesn't really apply in this case if you're going 25 either way). They don't look as nice as the 32, but who cares about how it looks...it's probably going to have a couple of bent panels at some stage of its life anyway.

I'm not sure if response will help as oil should always be pressurised in the lines, so whether the solenoid is at the accusump or next to the engine, when it dumps, it all moves at the same rate through the hose. Nothing wrong with putting it in the engine bay though.

Received my Accusump today and it's a sexy bit of kit. Anyway, from the reading I've done it looks like the accusump works on pretty low pressures, so I am questioning the need for braided stainless hoses that can take up to 1000psi. Do you guys have recommendations for the types of hose to use on an Accusump? I'll also use the same hosing from sandwich plate to oil filter (relocated) and oil cooler.

I'm also starting to look at cages and have seen some good things written about Brown Davis cages http://www.browndavis.com.au/motorsportcages.html In my non-professional opinion, a half cage is enough to stop the roof caving in on you in a roll, and a harness would stop you from potentially bouncing around hitting stuff if you do roll. That's what I would be after. Will be tracking this thread as I'm interested in people sharing experience or actual knowledge on safety differences for a full vs half cage and harness vs no harness.

Go nuts. You can even have the controller that makes them flash in different patterns.

I like what you've done with your build. It's similar to the path I'm following, getting the car as reliable as possible, will then look at handling and then power last!

I also recently bought a nearly stock ECR33. Nearly, as it came with a 3" exhaust, pod filter, neon lights and amp. To give you an idea, here is what I have done: - Removed neon lights and amp - Brake rotors and pads - R33 GTR wheels with Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1s - Refreshed stock suspension - Replaced all worn bushings - Wheel alignment Here is what I still have planned over the next 1-2 months: - Flush all fluids (gearbox, diff, coolant, oil, brake) and replace with good quality stuff - Spark plugs, clean AFM and tape up coil packs - FMIC - Oil cooler and filter relocation - Fuel pump and filter - Gauges so I know what's going on in my engine - Accusump - Power FC + tune My focus is on reliability as it'll be tracked throughout the year.

I can't seem to find a definitive answer - are all Blitz SE intercoolers for R33 GTS-Ts return flow?

Thanks guys for the responses. GTR32G, thanks for the link. That's a very reasonable price for the 3qt kit and all I'd need to do is get the hoses and fittings. Do you guys have an opinion on which pressure release valve is best? I'd assume that a lower pressure release (20-25 PSI vs 35-40 PSI or 55-60PSI) is better for RB oil control due to its inherent oiling problems.

Seen a few Canton and Moroso items on eBay, but just wondering if anyone sells accusump accumulators in Australia - preferably Canton? I know Performance Wholesale sell Moroso, but from what I've seen on international sites Canton is cheaper and just as good. Thanks in advance.

As the topic says, I'm after an R33 drivers side seat belt with no fraying, drivers side wheel arch splash guard and a set of brake pads with some meat on them. Contact me via PM, dan.1337@gmail.com or 0402502537

Won't taking each one off individually be bad (even for a short while) since some of them run essential items? It sounds like a small pig being stabbed