dan.1337

Also willing to separate rotors and spacers

I even have a set of GKTech caliper spacers for sale http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/435929-vic-gktech-r33-gts-t-caliper-bracket-for-gtr-rotor-dba-4000-gtr-rotors/#entry7132090 There is grinding involved with both GKTech and UAS.

Pic of rotors

Near new. Purchased recently from another member who claimed about 5 laps of a circuit on both the brackets and rotors. Rotors are 324mm GTR DBA4000 Club Spec (http://www.dba.com.au/clubspec-4000-series/). Happy to take pics of the rotors if anyone is interested, but they look exactly like the ones in the link. More info on the brackets can be found here: http://www.gktech.com/index.php/r33-gts-t-caliper-bracket-to-suit-324mm-r33-gtr-rotor-628.html Sticking with stock brakes for now. $350 pick up in Melbourne. PM me if you're interested, or with your postcode for delivery quotes interstate.

If a some people shared the cost, they would pay themselves off pretty quickly.

Does anyone know if a roof lining is mandatory to maintain in a road registered car?

After a front right R33 GTS-T caliper in good working condition. PM me what you have!

It's not close to the fluid channels. It's close to the hole where the bolt goes through the caliper to hold the caliper together. I'm pretty sure the area is actually not load bearing, but it's still a major PITA and not great that it has to be ground away at all.

While installing the bracket I've encountered a problem. I've been grinding away (thanks hardsteppa for the tip about the carbide burr, I found one in my Dremel kit and it helped a lot), but if you see the yellow circle second picture I've attached, I've actually hit the hole circled in blue in the third picture. I've probably only cut away about 1mm, but that's all the meat there is before you hit the hole. What's worse is that the caliper STILL doesn't clear the rotor as the rotor continues to scrape slightly in places. So, before I can even try it on track, I can safely say it's no good for track work as the rotor will expand with heat and eventually grind up against the caliper. I can't cut away any more caliper or I'll just be cutting into the tunnel where the bolt holds the caliper together. All GKTech needed to do was put the hole 3mm out and it would have been perfect. Now I'm down about 3-4 hours of grinding time, whatever the bracket and grinding tools cost, and have a stuffed caliper. If I had my time again, I would have wasted my money on something else.

Thanks for the pics of your install. I'll put up more over the next few days as I get mine on. Unfortunately the grinding away of the caliper is proving to be a right PITA and I'm chewing through Dremel grinding wheels doing it. Managed to get through half a caliper before needing to replace the grinding wheel, so it'll be at least 4 wheels to get them all done. The other way which might work is to use a metal file, but that would be difficult to get into some of the bends. With the dust cover, I was able to just bend the top edge toward the car by about 1-2cm all the way around by hand so it cleared the rotor and I'd keep the dust guard. Not really sure why the bracket wasn't designed with the caliper holes just 2mm further out in the first place?

Having a bit of trouble trying to figure out what goes where. Did the brackets come with instructions? If so, could someone please scan and post them up? I don't have any because I bought them second hand. I've taken a couple of photos from the drivers side. Just want to check if the bit of caliper circled in yellow is the bit I'm supposed to shave to get the bracket to fit. GKTech's instructions say " shave the bit that hits on the rotor, up to around 2mm's"...and I know that this bit circled in yellow will never go near the rotor. Or do I have it all wrong? Second pic is of the way i think the bracket is supposed to be mounted (drivers side). Appreciate any assistance.

After a passenger side folding electric mirror. Preference for the electric folding type in white and in Melbourne. PM if you have something as I tend to forget to check back here.

Does your car have the auto folding side mirrors? After a passenger side one if you have it

Price halved to $100 for the set

I'm running the Kinugawa rb20/25 high flow (not sure what the official name is) on a S2 rb25. Ran on low boost (~200-210rwkw) at Winton all weekend due to misfiring old coil packs and it was still fantastic. Boost came on smoothly and it didn't skip a beat. Car has been tuned for 245rwkw at 17psi. Other details can be found in the rb25 turbo sticky thread.

I bought them =)

Stock R33/S14 wheels painted black. 16x6.5", +40 offset. Comes with tyres, I think Kumho KU31 tyres which are probably 50%. $200 or best offer. Located in Melbourne east

SkudR33, I PM'd performance-wise and he was happy to try to help where he could. I'd recommend you do the same!

I'm running Penrite 10W-50. Bought on sale from Supercheap for $40/5L.

Will there be another GB happening anytime soon?

Thanks guys. Been burned too many times in the past doing things twice, so I'll do it once and do it right this time.

I was up around 130C at Winton on the weekend with no oil cooler

Now $480 ONO

Has anyone tried these eBay OEM coil packs in anger and have feedback? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131004016811?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

R33 S2 Stock motor Kinugawa turbo Blitz SE return flow intercooler 3" turbo back Hi flow cat Stock airbox with hi flow panel Walbro 255L 480cc injectors PowerFC ARK EBC 244.9rwkw @ 17psi on 98 at RTR Injectors got maxed out and started to misfire due to coilpacks so the tune was pulled back a little.