den001

it does fit, use r33 x member, rb30 engine mounts, and rb20 engine brackets....stock bonnet closes... i have a 26 goin in mine in 3 weeks...

11.71 @ 115mph... stock ecu, dumps back 3 inch, and .8 bar boost, clutch, and coilovers... 1.7 60ft

check the chassis number on revs for your state, it will tell you there... must go thru a viv inspection by rta inspectors, you must provide all your recipts for repairs and pay tax on it when registering..

statutory write off, unable to be registered ever again - usually sustained heavy hit to crucial areas which cannot be repaired without weaking the sturcutre of the car, also, if it bends the firewall more than a 300 by 300mm squared area, its a staturory write off... repairable write off, usually not too bad, some are hit hard, others are not too bad, this is easier for the insurance companys to cut thier losses, pay the insured out and auctiojn the car and get more money back than what it would of cost to repair, most cars that are new and in a decent acco, get written off, cos the cons of parts is high and not worth ithe insurance companys repairing... its all about money

mad rods ay... i got a set goin into my block with cp's as we speak... shit all over the eagle and scat shit..... possibly one of the best rods every made bar carrillo also, cp pistons use a nippon ring, same as genuine nissan, this is why they have a superior ring seal, some aftermarket ring kits will not bead into the bores of a rb26 properly and they will glaze creating blow by, low comp, and shit power output...

your a mad kunt!!!! he flys past the camera at 180kms on the back wheels of a quad bike, its fairly high up 2

definatly not a jun pump, jun pumps have a andoised red bolt for the spring and also the back casing will definatly say jun

i sold the gtr and am now concentrating on my rb s15, a build should cost u about 7000 to 9000 depending on where u go, the build i have atm is costing about 16,000 bvut is full house everything, in my 26, i also have a 30 which i will bolt my big turbo on and put a auto in later, the 26 will have a to4z and a 25 box, want to run consistent 9 second passes with this setup, the 30 even quicker

machine!! and well priced for the mods

atm i have a ITS GT80, this is good for 8 second passes aswell i was going to sell it but am totally unsure now, i have considered going auto but still am concerned about the lag..

still manual... ill take your advise R31nismoid i was just abit curious about sizes abit bigger, thats all, thoes flow maps i dont understand how to read them, i wish i could but dont know how to.. what would the t04z put out on race fuel???

hi, im unsure of whaty turbo would be good for me, after somthing abit bigger than a t04z.. i have a turbo now but its way too big so im gona sell it, my aim is to run consistent mid 9 second passes, im unsure if a to4z will make much more than 450rwkw on race fuel, i know they do it on pump, what would be my other options..?? cheers denis

the 6 throttles that bolt to the head have like a clear coating around them internally where the butterfly's close, if any type of cleaning agent is used inside, say like a system cleaner or carby cleaner, it can eat away at the coating causing the butterfly's never to seal properly again, never spray anything in there... make sure the idle screw is screwed in, if its all the way in and it idles high, ^^^ is your problem... not fixable on the cheap side and its a off job to do so..

pm sent regarding the whole package

thats a good price...

what you can do is get a gtr rear end, strip all the arms, diff, cv's and bolt that to the existing cradle in your car now.... you will need a custom tailshaft the diffs are mechanical, also are a 4.11 ratio, the cv's are a shitload thicker and stronger, this is what i have in my rb26 powered s15, yet to test but ive had the cradles side by side and the difference in everything you will swap over is heaps better that the s14 stuff...

motec m800\ or autronic sm4

ok, if I was to go a to4z ,.82 rear, I think that a powerband of 4500-9000rpm wuld be great yes, I'm aiming for a 9 second pass

Drag, the ocassional street cruise

hi, im currently getting my rb26 rebuilt with good internals,jun pump, ati balancer, pauter rods, cp pistons, hks 272, 10.2mmlift cams, and a full house ported head with hypertune manifold for my s15 now i have a innovative turbo systems GT80 , all i know about this turbo is thats its got a 80mm front wheel, and a .96 rear housing and the rear wheel is 80mm or very close to it with a x trim wheel...... i have no idea how to use those turbo graphs and would like to know what rpm it would come on at, my rev limit will be set at 9000rpm, maby 9250rpm..... i havent got a flow diagram, i cant find one aniwhere, and even if i could id have no idea what to do..... anyones experienced help i would appreciate as if its too big ill sell it for a to4z and run that.... cheers denis

ok, i have changed my ways abit, i have sold off the dash 7's and the managment today,also my rb30/26 pistons and rods, i have also sold my gt80 and now have a to4z im going to use the parts off my other car onto this.... sofar i have hks 272 10.2mm lift cams hks springs to suit bronze valve guides 1mm oversized ferrera valves hypertune plenum 85mm tb jun pump custom sump bare virgin block virgin r33 crank motec m8 obviously this will make a shitload more power than the quoted 330awkw, ive had a look at some of the dyno figures in the fi section, ive been to afew shops today and asked about a piston and rod combo for a RELIABLE 450awkw... everyone has different outlooks on different brands, one guy says this, the other says that.... i have come up with a combo which ive been told that will work very well, je pistons or mahle pistons and a set of manley turbo tuff rods??? will this be adequate for a reliable 450kw, or is it overkill??? any more combos yous know of with firsh hand experience??? cheers denis

sweet as i was thinking a tomei sump baffle , what do u recon? also i read somewhere on the forum that its better to use Nissan piston rings in the Rb blocks due to the beading in process... should i use these or use the ones hat come with the wiescos??? also head studs??? main studs???

my gtr has lost compression and is driving like a one legged camel.... i have plans for it to make around the 330AWKW... so far i have gotten myself some wiesco forgies 87mm.... will i need rods for this power figure??? i have dash -7 turbos and fuel system and management i was thinking these parts acl race bearings crank collar oil restrictor good pump oil return from back of head fresh head (reconditioned) stock cams with cam gears metal head gasket aftermarket rods forged pistons anymore suggestions ???

u have a pm for afew parts

hi, as topic says.... prefer sydney... need crank, block... thats about all please pm me what u got cheers denis