QRI05E

Ha-ha I like the cut of your jib Pal... Nice to see some creative effort with a decent outcome! I got my uni holidays coming up in about 1 month... im going to order the Gktech FMIC Kit and spend a day or two fitting it neatly.. (im VERY fussy) lol Thanks for the input guys! Feel free to try and persuade me in buying another brand...

LOL if marketing is all the difference then i'd rather save $200 and buy a GKtech and spray TRUST on the front hahaha Wouldn't HYBRID also be classified as a 'copy' cooler? I honestly think the Gktech is the way to go so far... its states to hold upto 25psi steadily and up to max 45psi... and only 0.2psi drop at 15psi EXACTLY the same claim of HYBRID...

Nice power output... but i dont see why the Gktech FMIC wont perform as well as the HYBRID.. there pretty similar in specs from what i have read... the only difference is that HYBRID have claimed and shown their product to improve performance... and GKtech hasn't

Thanks for your opinion Paul! I think for $400 the Gktech one sounds very tempting.. unless someone can prove to me the Hybrid is any better, I might order a Gktech FMIC kit.. and considering m going to bump the boost to 10 - 11psi after the FMIC, ill stick to a 600 x 300 x 75 core... Cheers

Common guys, please advise!! HYBRID GTspec vs Gktech FMIC Recommendations? Experiances with either brand? "Same shit different smell"? Haha I would appretiate any help! I dun mind paying the extra $200 for the Hybrid however is it worth it? Cheers

I wish you all the best with getting the front bar fitted... Have you taken it for a drive yet with the FMIC? any improvement in power? acceleration? lag?

Hmmmm some interesting information to consider! I still believe that a FMIC opposed to the stock SMIC will provide some sort of power increase. Thanks to an SAU member, who PM'd me and informed me about the Gktech FMIC kit which is a bargain at $400 for a full kit... Now im not trying to cause any dispute, but has anyone fitted this kit? what’s you opinion of them? How do they compare to the HYBRID GT Spec in quality and performance?? im aiming for 280 - 300rw/kw after all mods... will the Gktech FMIC kit be enough? Regards, Sarkis

From my understanding the factory solenoid has a built in restrictor which is opened at 4500RPM via the ECU, so it doesnt bleed the air. This idea has been attemtped before with the turbotech with many problems of spiking. Just install it without the factory solenoid and use your right foot as the boost control...

Just to comment on Paul's opinion, the dynos performed on the hybrid cars DID NOT have the factory boost turned up.. please read the article on the hybrid site... due to the larger FMIC the boost automatically went up 1 - 2psi... therefore considering the engine receiving a cooler and more free flowing air suply as well as the turbo being able to breath a lot better, some sort of power gain should be expected.. Who would have thought a split dump pipe would give me 12rw/kw over a 3" bell dump pipe? There were heaps of sceptics who said a split dump won’t make a difference including many performance shops that I asked… however I do believe that a smoother, cooler and freer flow of air the turbo and engine gets should result more power... Anyone got any dyno comparisons to prove this fact or myth???

On either the WRX or the XR6 its states the boost level was not touched... of coarse you may get an increase of 1 or 2psi due to the more flow and larger intercooler size. On powerdigger.com all the tested cars were stock and show the rw/kw increase when fitted with a hybrid FMIC...

I hope all goes well on your install gtst-turbo... let us know if it made any noticable power difference...

Hey R32 GTS-turbo, im comparing a Hybrid FMIC to a stock SMIC... it is intresting to see how so many people say that a decent FMIC wont make any power gain... I would be WRAPPED if my car made 200+rw/kw after my FMIC lol Considering my car pulled a 165rw/kw with misfiring coils and stock boost solenoid (7psi), and now i have new coils and turbotech set at 9psi... i might be making closer to the 170 - 175rw/kw?? I will deffinatly have a before and after power run to see the difference

Thats excellent Ben!! so considering my car is 165rw/kw at the moment, I should be hoping to see 180 - 185rwkw after the FMIC? then with cold air intake and 12psi i should see nearly 190rw/kw? Im wondering where all those sceptics are? hahha Cheers

Seeing as my next step is to install a FMIC on my R33 GTSt, I have been trying to research wether a FMIC would actually increase my cars current power output or not. Many sceptics say that a FMIC won’t increase any power but will only be a supporting modification to allow higher power output. Interestingly enough, I was looking into fitting a Hybrid GT spec kit and thought to share some of the claims Hybrid have made. www.hybrid-power.com Claims that with their Monster Bar & Plate Cooler kit for a skyline, have achieved a typical Gain: 25-30 rear wheel kilo watt (RWKW) with no other mods! www.powerdigger.com Claims: MY01 Subaru WRX with the factory ECU boost controller gained 15aw/kw (40kw gain at engine) Holden Calais VL Turbo gained 50rw/kw in the mid range of about 3250rpm with only 12 psi of boost. Ford BA XR6T gained a massive 17% power of 30kw (about 50kw power gain at the engine) with standard boost. Please visit the Hybrid websites to view their full claim along with dyno results. Would anyone like to comment on these claims? Im intrested to see what your opinions are on this issue. Regards, Sarkis

Nuh i didn't press too hard... it removed the scratches but left a rainbow haze effect when the LCD lights up... might send it under warranty seeing as i work in a mobile phone store... Cheers

Operation Failed the Brasso did remove the scratches but now has caused a rainbow effect when the LCD is on

Ill give it a go hopefully tomorrow... and post the results Cheers

Where can i get this BRASSO product? Woolies? I going to give it a go mate... truly appretiate your help! Cheers!

Hey Guys, I know this is WAY off the usual skyline talk but I need advice! I noticed fine scratches on the front screen of my samsung D600 mobile phone. so i thought to try some mild cut/polish you remove them and now its created a cloudy (fine scratches) blemish I tried using a CD cleaner kit and has not helped... i found a product called icleaner that is made for ipods which removes scratches and blemishes but its $35 + shipping... any advice to repair this? would toothpaste work? Thanks heaps! Regards, Sarkis

Easiest way to test your clutch would be to drive the car till its warm... stop the car on a slight incline... try to "normally" take off in 3rd gear... if your clutch is good your car will stall... if its slipping YOU WILL KNOW! hehe As for your coil packs, theres no harm in checking them out just incase this is causing any misfiring as you described it to be a "flat spot" which is a slight jerky hesitation while accelerating... The coils in the SII R33 are located under the black cover with 8 allan screws that sits on top of your motor... you will need to remove the throttle intake pipe to access it the coils... theres a thread on changing spark plugs that covers the whole procedure... Let us know how you go.. Regards, Sarkis

Hey Sid, Firstly waste gate creep and boost spike ate two totaly different things... Waste gate creep is when the boost valve in the accutator slightly opens up while the turbo is building boost resulting in loss of boost pressure... this usually happens when under light throttle.. a device such as the turbotech or any decent ebc prevents this due to blocking boost from reaching the accutator untill the desired pressure is reached... a bleed valve T-piece does not solve the problem. Secondly, boost spike is the sudden over boost usually caused by an inefficient boost controller or solenoid... most cheap bleed valves cause a boost spike by trapping the boost pressure during gear changes and once on full throttle again the boost may spike 1 or 2 psi... Eg: on a fairly stock R33... if the boost is set 8psi and it spikes to 9 or 10psi it wont be a problem.. But if boost on a stock R33 is set to 11psi and it spikes to 12 or 13psi will activate the fuel cut deffender and will put too much stress on the stock turbo... Again the prevention for this is a good quality boost controlling device.. The stock boost gauge in the R33 dash isn’t sensitive enough to show a 1psi spike therefore an aftermarket boost gauge would be a good investment if fitting any aftermarket boost controller... Regards, Sarkis

From experiance, this sounds like the begining of coil pack issues which are very common in the S2 R33.. you might want to check a few things first and see how you go.. 1. check spark plugs for any fouling and gap to 0.8mm (could help determine which coil may be misfireing) 2. check each coil VERY carefuly for any horizontal hair line cracks and burn marks. 3. make sure fuel filter is clean and run a injector cleaner with a fresh tank of premium. If you find any horizontal hair line cracks and burn marks on the coils, read the 'misfire' thread and that could be the fix of your problem. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=32356&hl=coil I personally bought a tube of Selley's industrial Hi-Temp silicone from bunnings for $11 and that fixed my coils.. solved my problem 100% Or if you got the cash.. pick up a set of Splitfire Di Coil Packs for around $600 - $900 new Regards, Sarkis

I would of thought the RB20 would have more torque then the SR20 due to it being a straight 6... Ahh well you may be right Jaz... but ill but by bet on the R32 cause of the mods.....

Personally thats too much screwing around... having to pull off your stock accutator and fitting a second hand R32 one... buy a turbotech off mark for $35 delivered and 10 min install you have any boost level you want with no creep or spike! Talking from personal experiance... Regards, Sarkis

Personally i think it will come down to driver.. the auto will be quicker off the mark however it depends on how well you know to drive your car. stock 200sx has around the same rw/kw as a stock R32 however the RB20 should have more torque. The auto 200sx are pretty laggy until 4000rpm... Considering your mods you should be able to get him, if not let me drive your car hahaha just kidding... the only way to find out is down the 1/4 mile. Regards, Sarkis