QRI05E

I wont have the time and money to do that, thats why im asking for everyones opinion... But i think for my application the Gktech will do the job more then enough... im chasing 200+rw/kw atm... then my end goal is 300rw/kw... i think the difference between the Gktech and HYBRID is very minimal at those power levels... Should be ordering my FMIC kit within the next week or two... Cheers

If the Tube/Fin design is better for street use then why do people still fit the bar/plate coolers? From my understanding the Tube/Fin flow better where the Bar/Plate cool better... Hmmm you gave me a second thought about buying a Gktech FMIC kit as they are a Bar/Plate core... The HYBRID Gt Spec is a Tube/Fin... I dont mind paying the difference as long as its the better choice... : CONFUSED NOW :

Epoxy glue is excellent for bonding materials however loses strength above 65 deg/c and considering that silicon is a MUCH better insulator and the Shelley's ind. silicon can withstand 205 deg/c makes it a much better choice...

Did anyone say COILS? Read the coil packs thread... common problem in RB motors

No problems buddy... glad to help! Cheers

Yea they do seem brighter then the stock bulbs... A standard LED is uni-directional and that’s why you didn’t get a good result… You can use fine grade sand paper and gently sand the surface of the LED to make it opaque which will scatter the light more evenly, giving a larger distribution of light... worth a try Cheers

LOL they way you described it i thought u f***ed the turbo LOL Thank goodness it was nothing in the end... did you notice any improvement in performance after fitting the FMIC?

Far out guys ... all I need is a couple of weeks and im 100% ordering one of these babies for my R33!!! Dezz i hope you still look after me when I order LOL Hey guys make sure to post all your HONEST comments when you recieve your FMIC kit... Pics of your install would be nice too.. Cheers

Just get EL Dials like I did HEAPS nicer and you get looks from every car beside you at night many compliments... P.S I used an ultra-bright blue LED to replace the bulb in my boost gauge which matched the cluster Cheers

The tape will eventually soften and shrink due to heat... a much more permanent method would be to use Shelley's industrial grade silicon which is heat proof till 205 deg/C... $11 at Bunnings and has got rid of all of the misfire… Cheers

Ahh ok... well i currently have my boost gauge connected to my plenum hose (pic shown).. would this be a better place to run the acutator hose to prevent spiking? or is it going to be the same sh*t as the BOV hose?? Please post a pic of which hose you recommend I use... cheers!

I dont understand how the cooler air from the BOV hose could cause the acutator to spike boost... :

did it need to be welded?? anyother method? im trying to avoid welding cause i dont have the tools or knowledge to do so...

Hey guys, as im soon installing a FMIC kit on my R33, im going to need to relocate the vacuum hose that connects from the stock IC pipe to the acutator. Now i know everyone says to T-piece it of the BOV hose however i have read that due to using a turbotech or any boost contoller, its likely to spike. Why is this?? Any other suggestions with out having to weld a nipple on the FMIC kit?? Cheers

Thanks Duncan... appretiate the advice... Just waiting for uni holidays and then going to order the FMIC Kit and get stuck into it...

from the tow hooks? you sure?? isnt that a bit risky?? :

I read some where that there were clips under the head lights too... is that true???

Go to the wreckers and pick up a stock BOV still save $$$ lol

If your in sydney area... drop into Liverpool Exhausts on Seaton rd in Moorebank and they can show you dyno proof of their R33 GTST split-dump, Hi-Flow CAT and 3" Cat back set up... and their price as well as workmanship are EXCELLENT! i can vouch for them... Ask for Jimmy and tell him Sarkis with the silver R33 sent you.. you will get few $$$ discount... Cheers

Your on the right track but you could save a few $$$ and buy other things.. - apexi pod = K&N panel filter in the standard air box (no defect) - hks ssqv = waist of money! keep the stock BOV - apexi avcr = PFC boost kit instead or even a $35 turbotech will be fine up to 18psi Use the SEARCH button... there are 100's of threads regarding this topic Cheers

LOL ill have try it next time

how are you suppsed to put the jack stands on the cross member if thats the point you jacked the car with???

Same here justin, thats where i thought to place the jack stands... but is it safe?? is that the right spot??

initially i put about 1 - 2mm of Selley's 401 industrial grade silicon (withstands heat 205 deg/C) on the sides where the arking had caused burn marks and took it for a run with no misfire.. then 2 days later misfire came back... so pulled them out and put another 2 - 3mm layer all over the coils (total 4 - 5mm) this may seem too thick however silicon is flexable once dry and coils will fit in if applied neatly... i covered the top, bottom, sides, front, back... except where the rubber boots were... once dry i fit them back into their frames and put them back in... problem 100% solved (2 - 3 weeks so far of hard driving) and im pretty sure its a 100% fix cause unlike PVC tape and apoxy glue, silicon withstands high heat and is an excellent insulator...

I know ay! lol i will still change the fuel filter on my next service... Oh by the way on another note... it was nice to see my car breaking traction in 3rd on the way home from uni while raining after fixing my coils ($11 Shelley's Silicon) hehe