PhilGTR

Yep thats a leak, i had that a while ago and i replaced all my injectors to be safe

At the end of the day its the certain population of stupid irresponsible p platers on the road that are causing the responsible p plate drivers this problem. As long as there are idiots on the road(there always will be) no matter what the government does, it wont change anything. I have seen so many P plate drivers do really crazy things on the road that has endangered everyones lives (running red lights, burnouts around the corners, speeding, changing lanes in front of u with minimal space at high speeds), and i think advaned driving course may just promote this sort of behaviour as they may feel they are very good at it. Maybe they are, but even the best of them make mistakes sometiems if you do it on a daily basis. But the government will have to keep trying to do something though to reduce it.

i had that on my gtr and i topped up my brake fluids and the light doesnt come on anymore.

yeah rebuild yours i reckon too. you never know when this 'new' engine will let go as well.

i think i might go with 18x9 + 8 instead which works out to give the same dish but more clearance on the inside and stick out just as much on the outside! I used to have a set of 18x9.5 +14 and it fit nicely too.

well i have had a look at the sticky but doesnt seem to be anyone running this size rim on a 32 looks like i will have to settle for 18x9's not as much dish

Hey guys, Can someone confirm that you can fit 18x10 +22's on a r32 GTR. I am thinking of buying a set. I know they will stick out a bit on the outside (thats what i like) but im more worried about the inside hitting the struts? Also what size tyres would work, may need to stretch em? 235/35 or maybe 245/35's?

Yeah i think if you dont want to spend too much and still be able to do 350kw youd probably need: -cp/acl/arias forged pistons and rings -Big end an main bearings -N1 oil pump and water pump -polish and test your crank with a collar or maybe get a r33 gtr crank. -stock rods r probably fine -not sure on the gaskets but i think the hks one is good -and maybe get a good head job too with a set of tomei poncams and cam gears. -turbos maybe hks 2530s for the power your after. But then you would need a whole heap of other support mods to support over 300kw. Will add up the bill to well over 10k I reckon with labour

Thanks fellas, Its just that the guys at CRD reckon I will need a intercooler soon. How much are the ARC coolers? I had a look on nengun they didnt seem to have any for GTR32's

For around 300-320awkw what size interooler would be best suitable for a rb26? I understand some people say that the stock cooler is good enough but I also would like to know what else could do a better job? Looking at running aroind 1.2bar boost. Is a 600x300x85 trust cooler a good size for the power level? And I have used the search button and would like more advice

1990 R32 GTR Done about 9,000km since rebuild ACL Forged Pistons ACL Piston Rings ACL Big End Bearings ACL Main Bearings Ported and polished head Stock polished crank and rods N1 Oil pump N1 Water pump Tomei Oil Gallery restrictor Gates timing belt R34N1 turbos C106/GT25 A/R 0.60/0.64 3" Trust Front pipe and Cat back Exhaust 3" Metal cat Twin Apexi Pods Apexi Power FC & Hand Controller Greddy Profec B Spec II boost controller Nismo fuel pump Still running stock cooler, dumps, injectors, camshafts and cam gears. 257KW at all 4 wheels @ 14psi. approx ~ 280rwkw or so Injectors running out of capacity. Dumps, cam gears and injectors are the next step and a bit more boost, hunting for around 300KW at all 4's.

Thanks guys, and it will give you more mid range power rather than top end if you fit a set of these on a rb26 with stock camshafts?

Hey guys I got my car dynoed again today and I just want to try and clarify the difference between rwkw's and 4wkw's on GTR's. The last time I got it done on a rwd dyno and it came up as 253rwkw at UAS. Today I have the same mods as last time but just adjusted the boost response i made 257kw @ all 4 wheels at CRD. Now Jim at CRD said to me the difference between rwd and 4wd is around 30kw give or take and that sounds a bit too much to me. When i tested my car today, it felt like maybe at max an extra 10-15kw at the wheels difference(but thats just my judgement). I also read somewhere here people were saying around 4% difference between 4wd and rwd for r32gtr's. Also last time my stock injector duty cycle at full power were at around 80-82%. Now Jim reckons I wont be able to make anymore power safely because of my injectors maxing out which I assume would at least be 90% plus? But need to confirm this later. Stock injectors max out at around 280rwkws or so?? So does this make sense to assume its around a 4-5% loss between rwd and 4wd? Opinions wanted please! Cheers

a noob question, are sprockets meaning cam gears?? Thats what Jim at CRD was saying "I should get sprockets to adjust timing??"

Thanks beer baron! i have it on 10psi at the moment and it feels much much better.

This thread is very helpful! I think I have found the problem to my lag issue and going to get it retuned this weekend at CRD. I believe its my boost controller's START BOOST setting being set at 0 which means my wastegate is always open?? I have a greddy profec b spec2. I know Beer baron you have one of these maybe you can shed some light on what you have urs set at? I believe this is a very simple to use boost controller and sometimes still confuses people, even the reputable guys at UAS! I'm glad i decided to read the manual

stock r32 gtr wheels with 2 almost brand new tyres 98% tread and 2 about 85%?

Does anyone use a Greddy profec b spec 2? I had a look at my gain setting and its at 15%, is this a normal setting or is this really low?

Hmm interesting i may have to check my boost controller see if they set the gain really low!

I have a similar problem with my r34n1's and my mechanic reckons its the tune cuz my exhaust cannot be blocked (or so i assume as I have a new cat as well as front pipes) So im going to get mine road tuned in a couple of weeks to see if they can find the problem. Good luck with yours!

i had this problem a while ago. so i got rid of my aftermarket bovs and put my stockies back in and it was significantly reduced. Although in 5th gear under load up a hill it still did it hear and there but only a little bit. So I got a Power FC and got it tuned. Even though the guys at UAS reckon they couldnt tune it out, its gone for good! No more turbo shuffle at all since the tune.

bump

Hey everyone, I got a written off 92 Mitsubishi lancer with only front end damage. Engine is still in good condition and has done 170,000km's. Excellent condition on the sides and the back and also the interior. Its got a body kit, kenwood stereo system, alpine speakers and advanti mag wheels, etc etc. Good for spare parts if anyone needs them! Will try and get some pics up asap. Im trying to just get rid of the whole car as I do not have the time to sell everything separately so I will take $500 for the whole car. PM me for more details. Cheers

bumpo

Ive still got my standard cams in the engine but wasnt planning to upgrade those. Thought you could just get cam gears for a bit of extra gain?