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PhilGTR

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  1. Bump again! will consider reasonable offers
  2. PhilGTR

    1997 R33 GTR VSPEC

    My baby
  3. Has anyone got a boost restrictor off a r33 gtr that they dont use anymore that i could buy? Cheers Phil
  4. Fair enough, so possible fuel delivery problem leaning out? Also the 7 degree temps also doesnt help
  5. Why is there a problem else where? without the restrictor it hits the +7 mark on my gauge. Im pretty sure the ECU cuts boost down that and retards my timing. But why would it pick back up again after 4k rpm? Is the ECU supposed to go back to normal or something? I wouldnt mind going a dyno run, but i have to get all the way to syd, but maybe worth it like u said. Thanks for your help guys.
  6. Well after the ecu limits it to 7psi, it doesnt pull hard at all, right through the rev range. Hasnt been on the dyno, but it feels good before the ecu stops it. But it could be a tired fuel pump? Not sure! Because before the service, i never had this rich and retard thing going on. Until right after i got it serviced with new plugs etc etc. But either way im looking to put the boost back to standard anyway, wasnt planning on modifying it much, just an exhaust. Any one have a boost restrictor they dont want?
  7. Hey fellas! I finally figured out what the hell was wrong with my car, or should i say nothing was actually wrong! I discovered today that my boost restrictor has been removed. And on the stock guage it hits +7 which is almost 14psi ay like 3krpm ish Before the service it musta had old plugs, air filter was dirty, old oils etc etc and after the major service everything has been changed and the car went really hard. Which made me wonder how a stock standard GTR could pull like this. This was when my ECU decided its too much boost and must detect knocking so it limits the boost to 7psi and retards my timing so it runs really slow! If i drive it and not take it above 10psi or 11psi, the car is fine, no retarding no boost limiting, feels good. But when i hit like 14psi, the car is slow. When i retsart the car again, its back to normal! Is it possible to fit a boost restrictor back in?? Or should i go with a EBC instead? I dont really want to run without a boost restrictor especially when i got an exhaust coming, might keep knocking. Can someone tell me where i can get a restrictor??
  8. So you are saying that a stock R33 gtr should run only 7psi approx?
  9. Hey guys, Just following up on my post about the lack of power prob with my gtr 33 intermittently. WRXhoon said to watch the boost guage when it happens. This is what i observed On the stock guage, i have seen it reach higher than the 350mmHG mark when it was running well. So you have -7 | 0 | 7 (thats my impression of the stock guage). And i have seen it hit around halfway between the | and 7 before. At this point my calcs show just over 10psi. However when it is running slow, it only reaches to 350mmHG point maximum. So at the | mark in the +ve zone which by calculations work out to be around 7psi. My question is what is the boost level meant to be on for a 33 gtr vspec? i heard 10 or 11psi standard? Also it sounds a bit louder too when this happens almost like there some air is leaking out when the turbos r sucking the air in?? Calcs obtained from http://www.proe.co.uk/units/ Help please!
  10. ANyone got any info on ow to clean your afms? Thanks!
  11. Hmm it seems to happen after a bit of traffic. but once it feels sluggish, it stays sluggish until either it cools off, or sometimes when i start the car again. But everytime when the car is cool it runs well. Will check the ignitor later
  12. i am using 5w-50 oil, i think he said motul. my mechanic plugged a little computer into my car near the steering wheel to check everything like afm voltages, coils etc and reckons all is ok! Its intermittent, sometimes it lacks a bit of response, kinda like something is holding it back but other times it drives beautifully, good response, pulls harder too. At first i thought it was in my mind but i dont think so anymore! Strange thing is i never noticed this until right after i got my car serviced. Im confused :| According to my mechanic my car is perfect drives very nicely. It usually happens after i have driven for a while and everything has warmed up. But then sometimes when i turn it off for a while and start it again when things r still warm, its ok again!
  13. Its running the stock air box with a hks panel filter. And the boost seems to be normal, it just doesnt want to pull as hard. Under say half throttle in 2nd gear around 2-4krpm it feels flat and laggy. But then i stop to get petrol, start it up a few mins later, its feels much better again. My mech plugged it into a diagnostics thing and reckons ignition timing is ok. he also reckons the coils and sparkies are fine and he reckons the afm is ok too. He is kinda stumped too, but I havent realy been able to show him the problem properly as it is intermittent. He reckons it drives fine because he hasnt experienced the changes in performance. He was suggesting a possible fuel pump problem?? could it be possible?
  14. I have this little problem with my 33 gtr where i get intermittent loss of power. Its stock standard not even an exhaust. This is what i have discovered so far, When i first start the car in the morning when its cold, it seems to be lacking a bit of response, but i dont push it, it just feels that way down at the low revs. Maybe thats what its meant to be. Once the water temp gauge goes up to where it should be, the car feels good! the response and power is how it should be. But SOMETIMES after driving for a while like 30 mins plus, sitting in traffic here and there and when the oil temps are up to about 80C it feels like it is a bit hesitant to go at lower revs and it feels slower through the rev range too. Almost feels like it doesnt want to go for a second or so and then slowly the power comes on. But then when i turn the car off for a while, come back after 20 mins drive it again and it feels like normal again, pulls hard and all. WHat the hell is going on?????? Can sometime tell me what it could be? Ignition timing hasnt been touched, plugs are correct too.
  15. hey guys, Just put on a new set of rims on my car so the standard r33 gtr rims are up for sale. Only very slight gutter rashes on them, in excellent overall. Its got 2 x Yokohama Advan Neovas with about 60% tread and 2 x Michellin Pilots with around 40% tread. Tyre sizes are 245/45/17 Looking for $1200. Pick up preferred. Although if you have a courier you can organise it and I can pack it for postage. Also I got a r32 standard ECU too. it was working perfectly on my car i only changed it for a PFC. It does have aa small bit of rust on the cover, but nothing is wrong with it. Asking $50 + postage.
  16. He said he didnt open it up to check my belt. so that hasnt changed at all. I have got a HKS air filter i just had a look and it looks clean and the afm looks good too. The only thing is the spark plugs! because normally i feel the most power come in around 4000rpm and levels out a bit at higher rpms, but now it just feels pretty linear all the way through without the sudden power kick in. Had to explain!
  17. Will coppers make that much difference? I am planning to slap an exhaust on it soon. Well I seem to get good boost response according to the stock guage, full boost a bit before or on 3k rpm i think so i dont think cooler pipe would be loose? I will have a look at my afm, as he did remove my airbox and cleaned my panel filter. Coils havent checked but will open it up and have a look.
  18. Hmm so I asked my mechanic today if he touched the CAS he said no. And he said he put in the same type of platinum spark plugs i had in before. And he reckons it feels good and there is nothing wrong with it. But then sometimes when i drive it, it does feels good and other times it doesnt feel as quick. Maybe its just me paranoid! But I am pretty sure its lost a bit of response down low although the top end feels the same. Could it be the spark plugs not gapped correctly? But he was saying that it would run like crap if they werent gapped properly. Is it possible to adjust the ignition timing without a dyno to give bit better response without damaging my motor? Or maybe i should just accept the fact that its stock standard and the exhaust is restricting it lol.
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