pixel8r

The reason I was interested is because my brother-in-law has been drooling over legnums for quite some time now (currently has a magna - definitely not my cup of tea). I've seen a couple in caryards here, but I've only seen 1 driving on the road, black with bodykit and bigger rims. It had what you might call a certain "presence" about it and definitely got a lot of attention from myself, but I've gotta admit it looked a bit odd. Dont get me wrong, a lot of people say the same about stageas (and fair enough). I dont dislike them either, and they're a damn good wagon, especially the interior and especially on paper.

Hey SK, Some very informative posts there yet again! Do you have a graph of some kind or what info are you using to map the speed on the dyno graph to rpm? Or are you just going from memory? I know I could take my stagea for a drive down some remote long stretch of road in 4th gear (or 3rd to compare with my dyno sheets) and take a few rpm readings for different speeds, but I'd rather not be clocking up 150km/h just to take these readings Is there any document available online that can give a fairly close mapping of stagea gears/speeds to revs? I know with the torque converter it wont be 100% accurate in the lower revs but I assume this wouldn't affect higher revs so much and in any case it should be possible to have 1 graph per gear by which you can look up the speed and find out what revs the car will be at when travelling at that speed. Obviously this would only work for the stock rim size/rolling diameter as well...(and completely stock drivetrain). Its just that dyno readouts will only include km/h down the bottom, rather than the (more useful) rpm....which they'd need more info about the car to be able to do i believe. Also, what is the largest turbo you would recommend for a stagea? Pretty sure mine is still too big, even with supporting mods, but you live and learn. I think mine drops off boost from 1st to 2nd just for about 1/2 a second (or less) but thats all. I've been contemplating switching it for something like a GCG highflow or Garrett 2871R or a HKS around the same size...but am now thinking I may be just as happy with better tuning. I'm not concerned with making the wagon a race car...just want good performance above 3000rpm, and hopefully reasonable fuel economy around 2000rpm - and I'm pretty close to that now - which is one reason I've decided to keep the turbo (besides money). Except for in hot weather with a/c on, I dont really mind it...in 25 deg or lower temps, it has plenty of go.

Please dont assume that just because your setup isn't how you like that it is a problem with the product. The unit you have may be faulty, or not set up correctly... OR, given that when you wound it all the way out it still boosted above 5psi, maybe you have an issue with your wastegate actuator or something. With no boost controller connected up, you shouldn't be able to get above 5psi. The way the stock controller works is by bleeding off some pressure in order to make it run 7psi (after 4500rpm). The way the turbotech (i assume thats what you have) controller works, is to have a spring holding a ball bearing in the way of pressure line so that when the pressure builds enough to dislodge the ball bearing, the wastegate actuator then sees full pressure immediately, opens the wastegate, and thereby ensures that boost doesn't build further. The reason the turbotech controller received such good feedback is because people USED it and it worked for them. Myself included. I've been running this brand controller for over 6 months now and it works without a hitch. Its only set to around 10psi but I've checked it with my guage and it will boost quickly up to 10psi and then stop there and it remains constant right through to the redline. If you had a controller that was that accurate you'd rave about it too. Its unfortunate that you haven't had the same luck, but I have an S2 stagea and this controller works GREAT on my car. Is there a possibility that either controller was not set up correctly or that there may be another issue with your boost? Might be worth checking that out. In any case, a GOOD electronic boost controller will give you more flexibility anyway and will work best. Hope you get it sorted

Hey guys, As the title suggests, does anyone know of any places that would be able to replace my left front C.V. boot before Dec 28? Or are there any mechanics among us that has the skills and will replace it for $100 (including parts)? I know I could get it done cheaper (other one cost me $70 about 6 months ago) but I kinda need it done before next weekend If anyone has any recommendations of places that may be open and available let me know. bad timing i know

oh ok. thats still pretty good. obviously a lot less restrictions for the legnum - what i mean is the turbo has steel wheels and has no issues with higher boost, no issues with boost cut (R&R/whatever), and it seems the exhaust is still breathing well enough to handle 12psi just fine. just a pity our stageas need a little bit of housekeeping (steel wheeled turbo, piggyback ecu) to reach the same level Go the exhaust for sure. Do leggy's sound good with an exhaust? Only reason I ask is I've heard plenty of lancers and magnas that sound woeful (even though the owners seem to think they're sik!!). The legnum is streets ahead of the magna in terms of power and technology so I'd expect it to sound fairly good yeah?

sounds like the people who designed your tax system hadn't heard of forced induction. You telling me that you could have a 5L v8 and a 2.5L turbo putting out the same power (and possibly the same emissions) and yet the v8 costs heaps more?? sounds like turbos are the go there

I was wondering about that. I think a full power steering flush is in order. I've had a clunky feel in the steering since I bought the car. I remember reading of someone else on here with the same problem and after flushing the steering fluid it came good. Sorry to hijack the thread... Hopefully you can sort yours out as well, JakesterNZ!

both of those times seem fairly slow to me. Not talking about anyone's driving either - just slower than I would've imagined these cars would do. I believe people have managed somewhere just over the 15s mark in a stock s1 stagea? 15.1 isn't that quick for the SS either. So its a credit to you that your heavier, 2.5L engined wagon came within .4 seconds of a 6L V8 powered wagon. I'm not sure how to compare engine sized (probably impossible) but we can work out that at stock boost, your car will be sucking as much air as a ~3.8L n/a engine, give or take some, but certainly less than the big 6L v8. and yet you would have the same if not more power to the wheels. I still say congrats Mitchy, as for the legnum, you meantioned earlier that you got 14.2 in a "dead stock" legnum and here you mentioned raising the boost? Just out of interest, what is stock boost and what did you set it to in order to get the 14.2. Thats a pretty impressive number Do legnums have adjustable boost as standard? or do you have some mods - eg, exhaust, boost controller. Also you said "not that much quicker" - I'd say .4s is quite an achievement just by adding more boost.

You're referring to the car, right? not the fuel pump...

I've found that when the car is loaded up a bit, using the 's' button seems to make it drive easier...but I never tried that for very long (and obviously wouldnt' recommend it for a long trip). +1 for the strength of the auto. I believe Nissan is best known for its bullet-proof drivelines and gearboxes. Most Nissan 4WD owners will know that the gearbox and 4WD systems are very good

whereabouts is the bleeder nipple? I believe my car is leaking ATTESA fluid to the left of the front diff. Its definitely leaking fluid but it doesn't appear to be leaking from anywhere up near the engine. Leaks enough to put a small 50c piece sized patch on my driveway every day...which is now turning into a 30cm patch due to parking in different spots etc. It doesn't look like engine oil and definitely not coolant. Is fairly clear and not at all thick if I run my finger over it and look at it. Is brownish in colour but as I said, fairly see-through and doesn't smell much. The ATTESA fluid level is still on max as it has been for the last 20+ months since I bought it (checked with car running - when the car is off it sits above max). Any other fluids it could be? My steering has always been clunky but not shuddering. Just feels like some things need tightening but not sure what...could be just worn rubber around the place...possibly requires a steering flush? I have a major service booked for late Jan so it should all be sorted out then

This matches what I've seen on mine. So for anyone too lazy to do the math... From FULL (apparently 71L? i thought it was 68 but anyway)... The 1st quarter of fuel used spans 18L the 2nd quarter spans 16L the 3rd quarter spans 17L and the tiny 4th quarter spans only 9L, which explains why my fuel economy always looks optimistic until it hits that last quarter mark I'd agree with about 11L on empty, mine will usually take about 58L to fill it if the needle is on E. Great info there!

When I read the subject line I thought "oh no, dont tell me..." but when I saw the pics I thought that actually doesn't look too bad. I'm all for making your car unique as long as it still looks good and IMO this fits the bill perfectly. If you did this you'd have one VERY unique ride would turn heads for sure!

yeah thats kind of what I meant. Was only referring to the "launch", sorry I didnt' make this clearer For what its worth, I've heard that the stagea is quicker down the 1/4 mile in AWD (more than likely with 's' button turned off) than in RWD with the front shaft out. Mostly due to the quicker launch I'd say. Are you sure of these details? I mean, do the lighter driveshafts make that much difference for us? What I'm interested in is if the transfer case/clutch packs are similar to whats used in the GTR etc. I always thought the ATTESA system was pretty much the same across all cars it came in, just with minor changes / upgrades to the computer logic etc. to suit each application. The stagea ATTESA definitely has g-force sensors as well, both latitudinal and longitudinal, as well as using the ABS sensors for all the wheels... I'm not trying to disprove your theory or anything, just curious as to how much the AWD system will handle. I've always been of the belief that its made strong enough to outlast the car as it comes in stock form, or even if you increase the power a bit. Sure if you're doubling the car's power output there will be more strain on the drivetrain but the way most of us drive (bit of a spurt here and there but mostly quite cruisey) I wouldn't have thought there'd be any trouble. I definitely understand the risks of leaving the 'S' button turned on all the time. The system wasn't designed for that kind of use. Another question to add to the mix is if Autech upgraded the AWD system at all with the 260RS's? There's not so many differences between a (R33) GTR and one of those.

Not sure if I agree with the low torque thing. ATTESA was originally designed for the Skyline GTR (R32 if I remember correctly, which was built primarily for racing in the GroupA racing series) and its designed for maximum traction at all times yet still retaining the feel of a RWD (and better fuel economy for ordinary driving). It will be fine in the wagon unless you're pushing its limits every day or something extreme like that..but then no car will last long if thrashed to bits every day. With the torque split button it will lock it to 50:50 but will still vary and put torque back towards the rear if it needs to so its not a fixed torque split. Dont use this mode all the time however, its only designed for a one-off here and there, like mentioned above - say if you're on an extra slippery surface or something...but for everyday driving leave it OFF. ATTESA will be good enough untouched most of the time anyway As for launches, I believe the manual actually states that the torque split button will give you better launches. Also note that under full throttle in a straight line, it will most likely transfer torque to basically 50:50 anyway, so the difference is probably minimal anyway. I've used the torque split button for really wet roads when its bucketting down with rain just for a bit of added confidence, but then provided you drive safely ATTESA is probably good enough in the default mode to handle these conditions well too. You'll notice the difference with the 50:50 torque split when cornering, particularly at slow speeds (nissan calls it "tight cornering effect"). So in general, leave the 50:50 mode OFF and enjoy the awesome AWD system as it is

This link should help you: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sa...l&hl=satnav in short, unfortunately its not possible to get the factory units converted to english. You can get aftermarket units installed to work with the factory screen though I believe. It annoys me that dealers and importers are STILL advertising these as having DVD, TV and satnav, when there is no way to use them here. I got sucked in too. its not that I wouldn't have bought the car otherwise, but I may not have preferred it over others that didn't have the screen. different situation with the m35s since they all have it but even so it shouldn't be advertised at all, or at least buyers should be made aware of the fact they wont work.

seems I was wrong about the emanage+auto thing...didnt' realise it could work as a piggyback too. as for the other points I made, let me put it another way. for 250rwkw, the emanage is the best (only?) option. the only reason i suggested the safc is for people who only want a small increase in power over stock, say up to 50kw extra. My reasoning was its not worth paying the amount that the emanage costs - but it really depends on how much you can get either unit for. If you want to do ignition timing as well, it sounds like the emanage blue is cheaper than buying a SAFC and a SITC (or at least in the same price range) so maybe its worth going the emanage anyway in this case. Can anyone confirm the differences between using the emanage as a standalone or as a piggyback? For example, if I were to go down that path myself, I would want to keep the stock ecu to control the auto. What sort of tunability does the emanage do in this case? is it just fuel (afm signal) and ignition timing (similar to SITC)? Does it still do fuel maps etc and offer more tunability than a SAFC/SITC combo? I figure there are more people than just me who'd be interested in replacing their SAFC with one of these in the future...and with an auto the PFC is not so simple (although I believe it can be done also).

I think everyone is forgetting some things about acceleration. Firstly, the kw figure is MAX kw, which wont make that much difference when talking about 0-100km/h times, and more difference when talking about 1/4 mile times. The acceleration has a lot to do with torque (which determines how quickly it reaches max kw), gear ratios, diff ratios, and also weight, and the rubber on the tires. The porsche happens to be better on torque, reaching 620 nm by just 1950rpm, but this still doesn't tell us enough. Some engines rev higher and more quickly than others, so there's no telling if the porsche will reach 1950rpm before the GTR reaches its max torque at 3200rpm. Anyway, my guess is that the diff ratio and gear ratios of the GTR are set up for much faster acceleration than the porsche. Nissan traditionally use very high diff ratios and this could be getting the GTR off the line quicker than the porsche. Higher diff ratio means the engine revs quicker/wheels turn quicker, and the turbo is on boost quicker. Either way, it doesn't really matter which is better in a straight line. I seriously doubt the two cars are in the same market and will attract the same buyers. The Nissan is quicker on a circuit due to a better AWD system and better handling/quicker cornering, and yet at the end of the day, people who want a porsche will buy a porsche, and people who want a GTR will buy a GTR. I dont think there are too many porsche buyers who would consider buying a nissan, and vice versa.

Ok, say I only want about 200rwkw (approx 180awkw). And is there a turbo cheaper than a GCG that will also bolt up to the standard manifold and exhaust as well as oil & water lines etc? I believe the GT30 needed a minor adaptor to fit but the original exhaust manifold is unchanged. Yes, I realise that NOW....actually I realised it as soon as the changeover was all done. Would've been nice if the guy who did the work had told me the level of mods required to get the best from this turbo, and the fact that whilst it can handle plenty of boost, the auto gearbox wont last long if I get close to 18psi with this turbo, along with several other parts of the car that would need upgrading. For the amount of work its just not worth doing on a wagon IMO. I thought I was going to be able to get it up to 14psi and have a very fast wagon but in reality it became apparent very quickly that it would just be a lag monster that surged and pulled for only 2000rpm, which isn't really convenient for anything except a higher kw figure on the dyno...certainly not that useful in the real world. But enough of my complaining. By the time I realised my mistake, all the work had been done and there wasn't much I could do about it. Couldn't afford to do it all over again at the time and probably still cant. The only positive spin I can put on it is that fuel economy is greatly improved...but I'd happily give up a bit of fuel economy for a bit less lag... It does start to spool ok after around 3000rpm but just doesn't get into its efficiency range so if ever there was a mismatched turbo/setup, this is it. I'd prefer something that started spooling around 2000-2500rpm and reached 10-12psi around 3200rpm or lower...not sure if thats possible. If anyone wants a GT30 that has been professionally installed by a turbo specialist (who does have a good reputation for his work on turbos btw), and has never been boosted past 12psi, and for most of its life hasn't been boosted past 10psi...please PM me. I cant sell it immediately, but will be looking to replace it in a few months time. I'm moving to brisbane in January so dont want to change anything on the car before then, and maybe if someone is able and willing to give up a day to come and do a turbo swap (incl fitting and everything) or something, they could walk away with a very good deal. will post up in the for sale section when the time comes if I dont receive any offers beforehand...details will be going in my sig shortly...

Hi, I currently have a GT30 hybrid (using standard R34 exhaust housing) on my stagea S2 (everything same as R34). However its very laggy (max boost around 3500-4000rpm). To cut a long story short, I was recommended this turbo by the workshop that changed it over, and yet many people on this forum warned me against it. The workshop guy said it would give better response than a GCG highflow (GT28 based) and it turns out that the forum was right and he was wrong. Anyway, enough about that... So i'm looking at options for what to replace it with. I'm hoping to change it over without spending much on it - ie. after I sell the GT30. My requirements are, I'd prefer a Garrett GT28 something, due to this size being ideal for RB25's if I'm not pushing big numbers. I want to run around 12-14psi, and I have exhaust, boost controller & safc so this should be enough to keep the same 160awkw I have now, but just with more boost. 1. Does anyone know anything about the GT28R? or any other recommendations around the $1000 mark? I'd prefer ball bearing and definitely oil & water cooled. 2. Would I be better off keeping the stock (R34 / stagea s2) exhaust housing? 3. Also does anyone know what it would cost to change over the turbo (by taking it to a workshop)? 4. and also what would I get for a 2nd hand GT3071R (just over 12 months old, never been boosted over 12psi, and doesn't get thrashed etc)?? I dont have a large budget, and dont mind going with something that will limit max power a bit. I just want better response around 2400-3000rpm if possible.

even if you only wanted 30kw more than stock? waste of money if you ask me. For say 50-60kw more than stock its probably worth it but for anything less you're essentially paying money for something you'll never see the full potential of. If you have an auto, the emanage wont handle it as well as the stock ecu anyway. It will be ok, but just not the same level of ride quality.

I wasn't saying its difficult. Out of that list, only the exhaust would be what I would consider "minimal" or "basic" mods. Turbos and ecu are a more serious modification IMO, requiring a lot more work and it will also change a lot of things about the car. Dont the stock turbos still have ceramic wheels and hence the ~14psi limit before they go bang? This is the reason I said it cant be done with basic mods. Of course it can be done without much difficulty, but it all comes at a cost.

if you want to go over 11psi you'll need an aftermarket turbo. no 2 ways about it. remember that a bigger turbo isn't necessarily better - look for something in the GT28 range...any bigger and you'll get more top end kw but will lose some responsiveness (ie. more lag). If you're certain you have the funds to make it to 250rwkw, and you're committed to getting it there, then go for the emanage. it'll make your job a lot easier. The only reason to get a safc instead is if your power target and budget isn't high enough to make it worthwhile spending the money on a full ecu. right on any aftermarket ecu (safc included) can get around this for you. not sure its possible to tune it yourself, unless you have a air/fuel meter, a driver (so you can sit in the passenger seat and fiddle) and a lot of road. For a safc install and tune you're looking at $250 ish but expect to pay more to tune the emanage due to the greater complexity. For just a tune for the safc I paid $150. Good luck

You cant make 300rwkw with basic/minimal mods. end of story. GTR's are awd so do you mean awkw or rwkw? you do realise you're talking about 120+ awkw more than standard...

idea - are all R34 PFC's the same? would it help if someone else who's fitted one in a R33 posted pics? or do you have this info already?