limpus

Retard the timing down low?!!!

Yes it will help improve the cooling performance of the cooler...the cooler is not doing anything if you do not get airflow...

Personally i'd stay away from the 040...while it flows well and supports the power easily...the filter design lets it down and in some cases has been known to clog up and cause premature failure...

The hks2535 isn't the most responsive thing on a rb20...in fact...just about any turbo except for the stocker won't be responsive...i know because i've got a 2535 on a rb20...however...yours seems alot worse... The guys here have basically covered all your bases...restrictions in your system would be first thing...and then after getting the proper support mods a tune will go a long way to improving driveability once you dial some timing in...if you cannot afford engine management and a tune now then suck it up and drive it the way it is...do not run at at 14psi...turn it down to 10psi and run it till you can afford it...mind you it will run like a POS till then... HKS turbos usually come with an adjustable actuator which you could possibly shorten to bring on slightly better response...mind you max boost will also rise so be careful...and when the time comes for the tune...running higher max boost will also improve boost resposne down low...i have attached my dyno graph from my recent tune...it should give you an idea of what boost response vs rpm you should be expecting...thats at 19psi though so boost response is abit better but its still gutless down low...

^^^ Bwhahaha... Back to the topic...if your tuner told you that then he's clueless...get the right adaptor and its bolt on...no cutting no welding no masturbating nothing...be it r32/33/34...

Its bolt on if you get the T3 flanged one...and if you get a kit it comes with gaskets and a dump pipe too... Stock internals will take 18psi-20psi easily...as long as support mods and tune are up to scratch...

Another possibility is a blocked cat...it has been known to happen...takes 5 mins to check...however my first guess would be a leak in the piping somewhere... On a side note...you're not the first skyline owner to be humbled by a camry...i know of a 33stst driver from here that got axed by a camry...and then he got a 34gtt and got axed by everything else...following that he got a 33gtr and we're waiting to see what else gets him...

Been covered before...they are not straight fit and require regrinding to work on the rb20...

In that case i must be really lucky because i have... My apexi pod is hidden inside my stock arbox with a metal intake pipe coming from my 2535 and a Z32 afm...its all about backyard ingenuity...personally i did mine because i had a spare apexi pod in my garage and felt bored one day...and most cops are non the wiser... So the bottom line is...YES...you can fit a pod into an airbox...but it will take some trimming of parts of the airbox to have it sit nicely...my airbox is butchered anyway with a larger section of the base and side removed...it just helps to get alittle more air in...when i'm at the track i just rip the whole cover off and expose the whole pod... As for whether it improves or hampers performance...you make up your own mind...i have done a couple of back to back dyno runs with and without the cover a year ago and power was almost the same...however it should be noted that this situation is not the same in real world conditions when you're doing 120km/h and ramming air into the engine bay... I don't have a pic of the box with the pod inside but here is the engine bay with the airbox...the aim is to have it looking legal...

Regardless...1300-1500 for a remap is madness...i'd go back and shove the ecu up his $^#%.... A remap however will work well on the rb20...heaps of guys here run them and we all get decent results...

Just do it...

That is f#cking impressive...gotta be one of the most insane rb20s going around...

Had another retune yesterday to iron out some flat spots...mods have not changed... 1989 RB20DET R32 3" Turboback Exhaust with 3" Metalcat Hybrid FMIC Bosch 040 GTR Injectors Z32 afm Just Jap coilpacks Turbotech Bleeder Aerospeed cam gears HKS 2535 DR DRIFT Remap Power is up to 237rwkw @ 19psi with AFRs sitting safely at 12:1...which is a decent improvement from my last tune...curve is not as smooth as before probably due to coils/plugs/slight boost fluctuations...but it'll do...

Still a bargain for something that works so well IMO...

Short answer...YES...change it...the old generation turbosmart bleeders were good back in the day but nowadays the turbotech is the way to go...there is a gazillion page thread on the turbotech here if you search...you can't go wrong for that price...bin the turbosmart one...

Surprised it took that long for someone to point that out...even the dump pipe won't fit...and if you are chasing only 200rwkw or so then you are looking at the wrong turbo...

As many others would say...Do a search!! But i can tell you that a 3071 is overkill for 200rwkw...plus the flange is wrong...how much more than 200 do you want? 250? 300? 500? decide on what you want and then research from there...for lowish 200s you have several options...

Its folly to run a emanage blue over a dr drift remap if you ask me...

How much do you want for the Conrods? PM me a price... Cheers...

With that budget you won't get anything decent...a rb25 turbo is probably your only option... As for workshop/tuning joints...look in your state forums...

Price wise i'd pay anywhere between 1-1.4k depending on condition...

Read the post above yours...PFCs for other models can be made to work on a rb20...might be another option...

Go look in the relavant section for the state you're in...you will find your answers there...

Hahaha....true that...

Sounds like an interesting combo...lets see how it turns out...as mentioned the rb20 will never be good down low so make it count higher up in the rev range...keep us posted...