Andyn

Preferably a r32gtr diff or an aftermarket lsd. Let me know if u have one thats for sale. Andy

my lsd is official an open wheeler? How much for a 2nd hand r32gtst diff? Also just curious how much a decent aftermarket one can be. I got a quote on a CAS diff, if that means anything to someone.

Can fitting a front/dump actually take a decent mechanic about 1 hour to install? Wondering whether that rate u got was standard or a special price.

Anything to look out for in terms of good cat? I hear the brand catco being used a lot in the forums. Only 3", how about going up to a 4" cat?

stainless doesnt really bother me to be honest. think mild steel will last for quite some time. Yeh since i have the factory gear on there some of the bolts can be a bitch to get off, if not snap. So I dont mind paying the extra to get it fitted. I guess my question is whether all split dump pipes are equal, and whether there is any proof that the bos one for example which is closer to 500 bucks, has any noticable difference. Anything i should mentioned when they make the front/dump. I read somewhere that the join should be as far back as possible to minimise turbulence of air from the two pipes. My 32 is pretty standrd with simple bolt ons and running 0.75 boost.

Hey, I was looking at fitting a split one, and a reputable brisbane exhaust place quoted me $400 fitted for a custom mild steel split front/dump. This sounds like an ok price (correct me if im wrong). Obviously its a no branded one, but these guys have been in the busines for ages so ud think theyd know what their doing. Anything i should be wary off and look out for? Also i may replace the cat at the same time. what should i look for in a cat apart from bein 3" and high flow? THe other option is to get front dump pipe from the forums (i.e justjap ones for $250 and fit them).

Bump!

Bump!

what would u expect to pay for a gtr bonnet these days and a gtr latch and grill?

Thats a pain in the ass. Does anyone know what legal mods you can do to ur line, if any?

*Disregard post*

Just wondering how difficult/anal the test it to check if it was roadworthy. Going to give them a call once they open. Any other experiences are welcome.

Dell Axim X30 (64MB, 624MHz processor) Comes with instruction manual, and all the software required to link/synch to your pc. Comes with genuine Spare battery, cradle, usb charger, screen protector, leather case. Fast 624MHz processor; runs Windows Mobile 2003 SE, integrated Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, removable battery, light and thin, SD/MMC/SDIO slot, a 3.5" QVGA TFT 16-Bit color display You can test it out before you buy - im perfect working condition. Selling as I upgraded to a pda/phone. Asking $250 ono for the lot. Located in Brisbane.

Can u explain what else the pineapples do apart from more grip? Would it really be noticeable for street use?

if i give it some gas and back off sometimes hear fuel popping in my exhaust. Popping kind of sound. How can i tell if its pinging other than using dyno? Is there any physical traits? Sounds?

Hey, I have a Blitz bov for sale, which comes with the piping. This comes off a 32 and is a direct fit. Take the old pipe out and replace it with this pipe - Easy DIY job. Not sure how much these are worth but let's start it with $100. Pickup in Brisbane only. Andy

didnt know you could adjust this. Where do you guys set it at? I was thinking about 30-35% up front the ground?

im interested on this too. Especially feedback on the Just Jap ones. Its nearly half the price of the bos ones, and i really dont think there would be much diff in performance. Possibly better material, but the jj ones should last for years. I could be wrong...

Just popped ecu out of my r32 rb20det and say this. Is this a factory ecu?

Rekin that is exactly what mine does each morning. If i get it some revs it starts fine. Otherwise it has issues starting.

No I don't have a consult interface. I have reset the ecu and let it go on diagnostic mode, but deciphering the beep codes is difficult. I tried going to Nissan and their interface supposedly doesn't work with 'imports'. Wouldnt mind getting my hands on an interface and seeing the log... UPDATE: Just as an update though - a few days after I cleaned the AAC valve I have noticed the idling has improved. It is sitting around the 1K mark now as opposed to 1.5k. The only issue now is starting it when cold (it still needs a bit of throttle to get going). I suspect this to be a leak somewhere. Havent had the chance to investigate further. If anyone has had similar issues and has fixed it feel free to post ur experiences.

Yeh after sitting a while the vacuum does go down (after driving around today it got to 590mmhg). Might have to get some 'startyabastard' and see if i there is a leak somewhere. THe gauge shows 760 for a while, when the car is started and still after 10 mins of driving around. (old avcr boost controller). After a bit of driving then it starts decreasing. No i did speak with a mechanic about the injectors (may get them done down the track). Also how would one go about testing the cold start valve & watr temp sender? Do u need any special tools? -----------------------------------------

Just an update with this issue. Still have not gotten to the bottom of it. I have searched in these forums and tried two culprits of idling issues - I have cleaned the AFM and the AAC valve (and reset the ecu). I have noticed improvement of the responsiveness of the car, however it hasn't fixed my original issue, as above. Two things that I have noticed which may or may not be related to my issue. When the car is idling, if I use both the window electrics simultaneously the revs drop, until i stop using them. (Alternator issue?) Also my boost controller, reads 760mmhg, when i start the car. After driving around (not up/down a mountain) it drops down to 580mmhg. I don't remember it dropping down. It used to always stay 760. Not sure if the hotter weather may affect this. As I said, not sure if these two things relate to my original problem. Can someone confirm if any of these two things happens to them, or whether it is actually 'normal'. Im keen to get to the bottom of this. Been bugging me for a while now. Any comments are most welcome.

Interesting thread. Im not in it for the rice factor. More knowing the status of the car and give warning signs when things may be going wrong. How hard are these gauges (oil pres/temp, water, fuel pres) to install yourself, and is there much room for error (ie installing it reading the wrong figures)?

k thanks will give aerostart a go.