
Andyn
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Everything posted by Andyn
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Anyone Recognise This Front/dump Pipe And Cat?
Andyn replied to Andyn's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I thought all 3 of these parts were stock, but wanted to make sure. Will look into replacing these soon. Thanks for the confirmations guys -
thanks for the replies so far. Any comments on the effect of performance with having two bovs installed?
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Is anyone wrecking one in Brisbane? Let me know if you are. There are 3 specific parts I'm after though - the factory rear parcel shelf grills (set of 2), the boot carpet, Spare tyre.
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R31Nismoid: That thought did cross my mind, but I'm just curious about this setup. So like to hear ppl's answers to the original post first, before I make any decisions.
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Hey, The previous owner has left the stock r32gtst bov intact and unmodified from factory, but he has installed the ss Blitz bov in conjunction with the stock one. First of all what do you guys think of this setup? I am on the fence about it atm, and think its neither good or bad. What I'm thinking is that this setup has somewhat given me the option of a hybrid BoV. If I want to plump it back, and just use the stock bov, I just tighten the spring rate of the blitz bov to the max (I havent really tested whether this completely blocks ALL air from exiting the blitz bov). However if I want to use the blitz bov and make it vent into the atmosphere then I Just loosen the blitz bov spring. What do you reckon guys? Agree/disagree/Partly agree?
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As title states - Just wanted confirmation.
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The stock r32 front speakers are 6x4s. If u want different size speakers (which is most probable) you will need to make a custom mdf door pod. There is a tutorial and even a template in the sticky section in car audio. Its not as hard as it sounds. I just did some pods for my 6.5" splits and im happy with the results. Mdf, electric drill and jigsaw and you are pretty much set. The hard part was getting the screws to line up. Also make sure u measure up the depth of your speaker and that it doesnt hit the glass when you wind the windows down. Its definately worth upgrading to 6.5 splits, even though itll take u a bit of effort initially. Anyway good luck.
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We upgraded the wiring on a s14a and that was a bitch (we didnt take the doors off). For those who have done it, was it tough on the r32? Ill prob upgrade the wiring to the front doors and to the back of the car (amp/sub). Just curious how you guys went. Whether it was easy as or an all dayer kind of job... (im guessing its the latter).
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Hey, Im looking to get some new battery terminals, as the current ones are worn. I just bought a new Bosch heavy duty battery, and most of the bosch batteries have the same size terminals. I went to supercheap and all the terminals are very small and u need to really hammer them to fit them (we tried it at the store). I saw some at jbhifi/repco today (gold connectors) but they were like $22 a piece! (22 for negative, 12 for positive). Before i get sucked into buying these, I wanted to hear if someone knows where to get decent size terminals, without paying a ridiculous amount.
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Justin - So what did they fix exactly to fix your issue? Very curious
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Heslo. I did consider that... How much did it cost you - part and labour? If u did it urself was it pretty straight forward to do? Any special tools required?
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I've just got info from the archive of past threads and I was curious so I thought the only way to learn is to try it urself. I'm keen to have a chat with someone who knows what actually happens apart from hearing comments like "IT has made my car run better". The thing is that I was running 0.75boost fine before I reset the ecu, and fuel consumption was fine. So just wondering after the ecu was reset, why the fuel cons is playing silly buggers and car feels less responsive only on higher boost setting? what could have been changed... ? Comments most welcome.
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I've got an avcr boost controller and recently reset the ecu then I drove the car for 45mins on 0.65bar boost. No probs there. Then today I cranked it to 0.75bar, for the first time after the reset, and i couldn't believe my eyes on the amount of petrol it chewed. I was driving casually for about 25km occasionally giving it a kick in the guts and it went through about 10-12L!(It was exactly on the 1/4 full line on the odo when i started, and it was almost empty after the drive). It didn't feel responsive at all either. I'm not worried yet, as im assuming the ecu is trying to sort itself out. I'm guessing the ecu is trying to get the ratios right, so after a few more trips on 0.75bar it should sort itself out and get back to normal. (touch wood) Can anyone correct me or shed some light on what they think might be happening. Also can anyone confirm that when u reset the ecu, and u have an elect boost controller, that u have to drive the car on each setting to make it relearn properly. Or is keeping it on one boost level sufficient (and just vary the revs). Hopefully this thread is useful for others in the same situation, or just curious.
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Predator - about ur $30 jack that u bought - can u elaborate on piece of shit? What was actually wrong with them? Im not looking for anything fancy - as long as it pops the car up so I can get the stands under it Im happy. Supercheap have got one in their latest catalogue for $55 bucks.
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Hey, I'm sick off using the miniature car jack, that comes with the car, and safety stands, to get the car up to work on. Also the car can only be raised a limited height due to the jack. I'm gonna go check out supercheap/repco in the weekend to see what I can get. I'm thinking of either car ramps or the hydraulic jacks (I think i saw one for $30ish), depending on the price. What have you guys bought, and where from, and how much did it set you back? Andy p.s Optimal would be the use of hydraulic jack with safety stands, if the price is right.
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I get the same issue as heslo. From the past threads the solutions ppl suggested are: -top up power steering fluid -check connectors are fine -top up hicas fluid. Are there any other ways you guys have fixed this?
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Has anyone used a car washing service before (the mobile car washers, as opposed to the automatic washers in servos etc) around Brisbane? What are your experiences with them and how much did they charge you (and what did they do)? Keen to hear your comments.
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Thanks for the reply gav. Sounds interesting Have u done this before? I wonder what kind of hole the syringe will leave. Obviously ill go for the thinnest point i can find. 1/4 round mould. is this something u can pick up from diy homewares store?
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Just reading up the thread where tint is installed for $150 in sydney. (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=95122) Anyone know anyone who can do a similar deal in Brisbane (Quality stuff though)?
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I ended up picking most bits and pieces from the wreckers in the weekend, however there is one other thing - Boot carpet. If anyone has some lying around for a r32 let me know.
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Slo32. No I checked the part number and it is a map sensor part from the PowerFC - however in my current setup its currently doing nothing. So what I think has happened is that the previous owner had a pfc, and he took it out and put standard ecu back in (leaving the map sensor in but unplugged). So Now i have detached this lose hose and everything is running fine. Im pretty sure this is what has happened. Thanks for ur replies. Kicked up a stink about nothing
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Hey, There are some blisters in my dash (Seems like the glue has lost its bond), and just wondering if u guys know of an easy fix (without replacing the whole dash).
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Hey guys, Anyway own one of these older units or know where I can take a look at the instruction booklet? Its fairly intuitive but still want to take a look.
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Oh is that so? Maybe that was the reason why the hose was disconnected from the map sensor initially (i assume they had an a/m ecu and then took it out before they sold it to me). Yes when i was installing the pod there was that black plastic box near where the pod sits - I thought this was the MAF sensor. Interchangable terms? p.s Im guessing its standard ecu as it has Nissan on it and the model number - MEC-R126 (Edit: Confirmed by this site http://eparts.jp/parts_detail.htm?brandcode=30425019)