JNR24

Youl find that youl be up for more $$ than you think. You cant really "Touch up" 2 pac paint. The areas that need to be "touched up" will have to be blended back into the car. (otherwise its gona look pretty bad) Color + age of paint on car will depend on how much color matching & blending will have to be done.

Good point Sydneykid, i guess the modern car industrie does pretty much have the forged piston market covered. I Guess what i would have been refering to is a forged item would take alot longer to induce thermal expansion (on a cold start) inside the bore thus creating alot more cylinder wear as well as piston wear, as compared to these unknown Thermo-pudic pistons? As you know 80% of motor occores of the first flick of the key. I guess its not so much of a big deal for this Block (considering the whole lot cost me a slab) but more for the fact that i am building this engine with not just performance but also "reliability" in mind. So of course to get reliability you need durability. Dont get me wrong, this motor should be capable of producing 500-600BHP, but its going to produce that power in a smooth and durable way (or as close as possable) i didnt actualy check the rod bolts i will take photos and put them up showing the diffrence in pistons and also the bolts. Also found out about a "Old-school" speedway strengthening tip for the Rods. Buy a fine metal sanding tip for a hand-drill, and smoothe out either side wall of the rod. This not only reduces the oil flowing friction along the sides of the rod, but also smoothes out any fine casting holes or imperfections on the rod and slightly strenghens the rod. Not a bad improvment for $10 (Better oil circulation + strenthened rods) i will post pics when i can be fugged scanning photos, ( no digi cam) Sorry i got off a little there, but yeh... suggestions on the pistons? Lowlux, this is the most worth while upgrade i think you can do for a R33. Got the looks, the solid bottem end. (Even if id does blow, its gona cost you $50 for a whole turbo RB30 bottem end) You will see what i am saying when a post pics. the two blocks are identical. Once last thing sydneykid, bearings. How much and what do you recommend. IAM GONA HIT SUBMIT NOW!!

HAHAHHA LOL BAO2ME buy his injectors would ya!! :shake:

Ok first things first muffas, Get a proper exchange rate 13,254.00 JPY = 175.300AUD as of 2003.05.07 05:24:12 GMT goto ww.xe.net to get your exhange. Check it for yourself. So first we have established that its not $189 per injector, it in fact 175.300. You pay import Tax when you share a (Sea contianer or if the item is passed through auzie sea ports determined by the classification of goods within the Australian Customs Tariff. Why would you get it ship frieghted when you could get a 3rd party air international courier to deliver it to your door for $100AUD?? I have bought over 15 Seperate items ranging from Subwoofers to plenums, from the US & Japan this way WITHOUT paying any import or customs Tax. Just depends how simple you make it for the seller. So even if the freight does in fact cost $100AUD By AIR (7-10DAYS) you will still be better off $150 bucks (buying from you).

sent another PM

LOL i should of known your from perth... heres a more EXPLAINED version just for you: that price is per injector $175 X 6(RB25) = $1050 DELIVERED That means its still $250 dollars cheaper than yours. Understand now?....Tool!

Man, Greenline Motorsports do the same injector RRP$174AUD delivered. I hope that not how much you paid for them! http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bcpartli...ntake=FI#intake

check your PM biiaacccccchhhh!!!

Sent PM

Speak to Dominic Colombini (Manager), from precision Body Works. He is in Hoppers Crossing, when i went there he had 3 skylines in there as well as one in the spray both! I also took my car there, my whole passanger door was fuged, (T-Boned @ 25KMH) he fixed the door, and resprayed the car. Come up better than new, even used a super glossy PPG Clear on the paint. Mirror finish. Very impressed. Heres his number 9749 5539. Talk to him and just say you were speaking to trev with the two tone skyline R33. Top Bloke to talk too!

fyi guys, Well yesturday i picked up a RB30 for my conversion into my R33. I will be using my RB25DET head on the RB30 block. So i started stripping the motor down, pulled the crank, pistons, girdle, oil pump, welch plugs & everything off the block. Now the RB30 block is going to be Acid dipped/cleaned and machined out a further .10 ontop of the .15 that it allready has. (total of .25) Looking around on these forums i noticed a couple of threads of people spending $800 - $1200 on RODs! I pulled a piston out yesturday of the RB30, removed the gudgen pin and looked at the rod... I then walked over to my old mans 900HP, 7 liter, 454 Big block chev (Also in peices on the floor) & compared rod sizes. Width of the Rods, SAME!.... Side wall strenth & Height SAME!!. Only noticable diffrence is that his are slightly longer. (witch in fact would make them weaker than mine because my rods would have a higer pressure tolerance) I will leave the rest for you too decide when its time for you to do a rebuild. Anyways i am now at a stage were i am looking for pistons, i am not intrested to here anything about forged pistons. Alot of people arent aware of the cons about forged pistons, such as the amount of slop that a forge piston has (Clerance properties between the bore and the piston, & heating + cooling tolerances).If you guys all wanted to run 9 sec passes and were looking for no more than 100K then i would suggest running forgies. not for mild street cars. Now, has anyone tryed using Thermo-pudic pistons (not sure on spelling)? i havent done too much reasearch into these pistons, but heard that it a very strong alternavtive to running forged pistons. And are still capable of running very high HP (600+). Some of the advantages of these pistons so far are that there heating & cooling properties closly match the stock pistons, and they are a very snug fit in the bore (prevents slapping up the bore on cold starts, unlike forgies that have to become warm then expand to provide the snug fit) This inturn reduces engine (cylinder) wear and will provide me with the drivability & performance that i am after. Check (if you live in usa): Kroger Weekly Ad, or Myer catalogue. Has anyone used these pistons or know of someone that is using them that has problems? Basicly i am after so critism on the pistons, if there is any? Thanks. Edit : new host of the RB30 DOHC guide hosted by Titan RB30 DOHC Guide. (Click me) rb30_dohc.zip

Or buy a sydchrome toolset, if they break they replace it for free. Stop buying your tools outa the bargin bin at kmart! :shake:

Are you talking about ernies rexy?? (the one you raced) Cause you guys shouldnt over estimate rexys. cause there not bad if you spend 60K on them!! :shake:

BS Zdeno, Il beat you with my stock ride-on mower, (with no air-filter) and through 3rd & 4th youl have no chance! :shake:

bump, comeon guys, My passangers are all going blind without this sunvisor!!! and every 2 seconds wy centre consol lid flys up.! I need these 2 really anoying parts, anyone!???

No guys, this is just to have the clutch mailed out, with pressure plate (And thrust bearing, i think.......)

Should be good for around 300KW

Naa, peice of piss! If your looking at you indicator, just hold + move the indicator to left. and then pull back towards you. the should just come out. (R33 GTST)

Also shipping might Vary from were you live!! i will confirm your prices & shipping price when where all definate.

Hi guys, I have been talking to a top guy from Horsepowerinabox.com. He is extreamly nice and has offerd all SAU members a discount on the allready cheap price of his: Extra Heavy Duty Cushioned Ceramic Button Clutch. RRP: $750 He is gona knock it down to $730 just if we individualy buy, so if you cant get in on this group buy you just have to pay $730. (just because you a member of SAU, Whata Champ!) Anyways this post is purely for people who ARE going to DEFINATLY buy this clutch. if you need any sort of background info you can see this post here. If you wanna have a look at the clutch & tims site click here. Theres some pretty neat stuff on there. Also this deal is not state specific (Tim will ship anywere), so anyone can buy. So i will set the end date on this group buy on Wednesday 24th of May (3 weeks away), so whos intrested?

Thanx guys, i bought a pair from just jap! =)

We should organise a SAU meet on victoria street, in willi (melb). And then we will one at a time do some circle work on Mr.Bracks front lawn. And then we will kick his spriklers. :shake:

The stock heads on the RB25DETs flow very well stock. Does any one know my initial question?? I need to know! =) Otherwise i am gona get the dynabolts out and make sure the head never comes off! =) :shake:

My freind is a alloy engineer in geelong! =) Cost me 48 cans, (fill there staff fridge) :shake: I will post pics soon. He gave me a volume flow report, i will post that aswell. Apparently it should flow a extra 25% more volume. Gasket is a thicker HKS steel item, 1MM- .08MM thinker i think?

pay the extra $300 & stick with stainless, sounds nicer too!