JNR24

Ok Dru, so your definate? i dont want to screw this guy around? Waiting on INASNT, and i am getting one as well. Dru and Inasnt, send me a email trevor.forward@axa.com.au to arrange payment options. Cheers, Trev.

probly next wednesday? (Pay day! ) And no i dont get $10K a day like your slack sparky ass! Because this guy might get one soon, i spoke to the guy who runs the site. I have been incontact with him about getting a clutch as well. These a really good quality flywheels, good cheap performance mod!

Be careful, On/Off clutches can slowly destroy&weaken your drivetrain overtime. Driveability is everything, and you dont enjoy driving your car because you have to goto a chiropractor everyweek!

I am after one as well, so if you wanna buy one it might be cheaper if we both buy one. let me know if your getting one. Trev.

$150 will be lucky to get you a stock steel flywheel! www.horsepowerinabox.com have one, its $395 bucks made for RB25DET, thats just the flywheel. its located here: http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/mall/fw03.asp

Ok the idear of having a lightend flywheel is that it will have a considerable loss of rotating mass which in turn makes the car rev’ easier and decelerate quicker into corners. Its best to get a Billet Steel Lightened Flywheel, that has the strength as well as being lighter. Because Flywheels do let go! so stay away from the Aluminium ones. Stick with steel youl be safer and still have the performance advantage.

definatly intrested, i will buy one for that price. PS, do you have pics of a R33 with it installed?

Bump comon guys! make an offer!

bump, comon guys a RB25DET HEAD?? And some GTR Valves & springs? Anyone?

sorry i had to say it before anyone else.... =)

Mada, da intake needs a port & polish oreee & a fulsik blow of valve orreee. den it will allmost have as much power as my hydro BT1 thats @ JPC in Thomo OORORREEEE! :shake: hehehe

Yep i sure did misunderstand you there! Most definatly matt, your right this definatly is a high HP conversion and isnt really worth it if your after a mild-slightly wild streetable R33. The 2.5 engine capacity will be able to provide you with enough cubes to push up to the 300RWKW mark. Also note that even in a 2.5 your still going to be spending a considerable amount of money to get it there. Lets face it 300rwkw is alot of power. I mean The most expensive $100,000ISH HSV just pushes up 300KW (Flywheel,wheels?). Obviously if you wanna go on past 300KW you have power on the mind!!

CRANK: RB30 Stock crank, get it balanced etc. RODS: RB30 Stock rods, Polished, shot-peened, nitraded (if you want) PISTONS: Get a set of forgies and machine the block to fit. This is just what to use, not the background in getting it together, etc.

Ok there still seems to be some confusion as to what pistons & rods & crank you should use to achive a desired CR of 8.5:1 - 9:1 Can someone clear this up? e.g RB30 rods with RB25/26/30 NA/DET pistons? ________________________________________________ Secondly, i am still in the stages of block preperation as we all know. Now after taking all the dags off and polishing everything up, i am now ready to send the block off to get machined/cleaned. Now my particuler RB30 Block is on its second rebuild. Because the boreing process is increased in .10 increments & my motor has allready been oversized by .10 so this means that i will take it out a further .10 bringing it to a total of a .20 oversize over stock. (good idear to check this before you buy a RB30 Block and bring it home, as my motor will only be good for another rebuild, before you start running into heating problems, and issues with distorting cylinders). will this total bore of .20 bring my total engine displacement out to 3200ISH CC? ________________________________________________ Also while your motor is at (INSERT YOUR MOTOR MACHINIST HERE) its a good idear to have all the centre jernals given a light hone & re-lined so that the crank sits dead straight. This prevents un-even wear on your bearings. So this is what i have at the moment: (Guide FYI) Machine & hone out on all 6 cylinders: $150 / $25 per cylinder. Balancing of crank : ??? iam guessing around $70-$100 Acid clean:$70 ISH Alligment/Machining of centre jernals: $100 ISH So this is basicly everything you need for the BLOCK! Note: to balance the crank or the centre jernals, i think you need pressure plate/flywheel & harmonic balancer that your going to use. so that they can balance it properly. _________________________________________________ Ok what i also need to know about is Oil!! What sump & pump works best!?, and will they fit without having to be modifyed? Cheers guys! (Gees, this threads coming allong nicely! theres some great info in here! )

Also guys, this is probly a good idear when you have the block on a motor stand withall the guts out of it. Get a drill with a small fine, stone piece on the chuck. and on the Inside of the RB30 Block remove all excess casting dags on the inside gully of the block. These casting dags are here from the factory casting process of molding the the block, you might notice gouges around the dags were factory workers "went the hack " with a grinder! Once you have removed the casting dags, change the drill piece back over to the sanding piece and then polish up all the crank support rails. Without touching the cutouts in the rails. Good rule of thum. cleaner & smoother = Less resistance = Better flowing motor = More Durability & more performance. I am taking photos of everything i do and i will post them in that word doco Joel has nicely provided. Cheers Joel./ peoples

I think the RB30 head runs top feed injectors (low impediance), while the RB25 runs side feed. (high impediance)

Idear no 1. Perhapes use the NA pistons for the RB30?. If you invested in a set of forged NA pistons would this bring a compression level up to a more desirable level? (not too sure about this one, maybe it might push slightly over the desired CR of 9:1) Idear no 2. Perhapes shaving the RB25DET Head? this would also be another way of bringing you compression up. Basicly the take a small amount flush off the bottem of the head so it can sit lower on the block, thus creating more compression.

LOL AHHAHAHAHAH I heard about that you pooofffff doing donuts & shi*t you represent the altona mario population. iam going home now, after a hard day @ work!!! =) Ctach boys

Zden, every single thread you chat on gets removed!!!! Just by a tape recorder and talk to yourself. hehehe

And root his daughter! :shake:

First of all, Guys stop kiding yourself, these guys that work there arnt fools! Covering a FMIC with some mesh isnt going to cover it, when i got done and went down to mcloed(spelling) i disconnected my Turbosmart boost controller (incabin) and wraped the hoses around the wiper leads. The barsted opend my bonnet and that was the first thing he looked at, then he said "$500 fine if that was connected". THen he opend my airbox, checked my intake for BOVs, followed all intake tubing/hoses . Then he checked exhaust/cat and done the DB test, checked CO/2 levels. then said nothing here, see ya later son! (10-12MINS) Change you exhaust to a stocky, check your cat, replace your stock air element, and change your oil if your really para. Then after the EPA take your exhuast OFF, air cleaner out, Hell stick a mega huge triple trumpet BOV and roar past there with you plates fliped up! :shake: *** you EPA & junior cun*tibles pricks i hope your reading this, you may be able to inconvineince us, but youl never be able to stop us.

look forward to that post sidewaymambo

LOL ZDEN!!! Iam going to tell fisher were you are now, !! =) YOul be hunted again!@! Hey il call you tonight on jew time.

YES YES!! wait tell me more, i belive these hypereutectic are the pistons my old man was trying to explain. Are they any good? pros cons? heard good things about em..... but dont even know what they are...

LOL!!! Zdeno, your the one drag racing up victoria street with no exhaust on!! And then doing handbrakeis into his driveway!!! LOL