sidewazegtst

Hey man what's up. Ok that pipe is a test pipe NOT a cat. All it does is fill the gap left by the cat so basically you have a nice straight through system. Just be aware that you most likely won't pass any emission tests (if you have that where you are) so I'd suggest keeping your stock set up or at the very least a good stock cat. What you need is either liquid exhaust gasket or regular metal exhaust gaskets, do not use silicone, and also hardened bolts and nuts. I'm not sure how it works in Austrailia but here in Canada the higher the number on the bolt, the stronger it is. So just get the strongest bolts you can. Also a couple of jack stands to help support the system untill it's bolted in to place and I'd suggest either a regular air impact or cordless impact gun to secure the bolts. So that's about it, should'nt take you to long depending on how hard it is to remove your old system. Good luck with it. Take care. Cheers B)

Hey that's great. See I told ya that list would'nt grow any bigger, I must be physic. Anyway I hope the registration process will be as easy as replacing the battery. Make sure to post up some pic's of your new baby as I look forward to seeing her.

^^^ :lol: well hopefully the list won't grow anymore and you'll get your car VERY soon. I'm really loving this car and it's funny how it still has'nt really sunk in yet that I own a Skyline. I mean I know it will but for now it's a really neat feeling.

Well there's no real point in using an SAFC if your running stock injector's. The ecu will compensate for the extra boost and hopefully supply enough fuel. You really only need an SAFC when running a different maf or injector's. The best way to determine your a/f's is either with a wideband or the dyno. I don't think you'd be running that rich and if so, it's probabley only on the decel when you let off the throttle. That's no big deal though. Now to fully answer your question, yes the SAFC can either increase or decrease the amount of fuel even with stock injector's however you can achieve pretty much the same result using a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. However if you have an SAFC already and want to put it in, your fuel corrections will start at 0% +/- and go up or down from there. The 0 is because you have stock injector's and you'll just play around from there. I'd recommend leaving it at 0 across the board in Low Throttle for sure. Your High Throttle %'s will have to be determined by a wideband or dyno. Oh also remember to gap your spark plugs to .8 mm's to get rid of the spark out issue in the high rpm's when you turn the boost up. Well I hope that answers your question ok. Now can anyone answer my question about the proper correction needed to make GTR 444cc injector's act like the stock GTS 270's? I just need the number's so I can at least drive to dyno.

Thanks for the kind words man. Actually no they are'nt hard to import, register or insure here. Our law states any car 15 years or older can be imported legally. I thought you guys were having a similar law institued, or is my info wrong? If I am wrong, your all VERY lucky that any car made in any year can be imported. Yeah us Canucks are jealous .

Hey everyone. Well I finally picked up my car on Friday and yeah.....I'M HAPPY! The car is a 1990 R32 GTS-T Type M, bone stock (which most likely means she was'nt abused by the kids in Japan ), 101K km's, original paint, NO RUST, mint frame and a very strong motor. When I test drove her at 3500rpm's in 2nd gear I punched it and it through me back in to my seat. At 6500rpm's she still wanted to keep going. I was super impressed. Anyway here's a few pic's after I washed her up. The car still needs a good detail job but she cleaned up really nice. The writting on the windshield is no longer there now. I'll be going for emission's next week I first wanted to give it a couple of tanks of good gas, bottle or injector and octane boost, oil change and some high rpm driving just to clean the engine out. She was sitting for a while so it was a good idea. As well I've reset the ecu and I'm doing new plugs and air filter. Overall I'm just really happy and excited to get this project going. Well take care. Cheers B)

Hi everyone. Well finally picked my R32 Skyline GTS up on Friday and yeah....I'm a happy guy. However as the stock radio was removed, I need the brackets that hold it in place so I can put my new deck in, it sucks not having tunes. I'm not sure if it matters but my car is an 90 GTS. So please let me know if you can help me out here. Thanks guys. Cheers B)

The SAFC is ment as a piggy back system to trick the ecu and since your using an RB20 ecu you don't need to trick it. It's ment to see boost and to run 270cc injector's which are in your motor. Now those injector's won't handle 14psi for very long as you are just (if not for sure) maxing out the duty cycle and an SAFC won't be able to fix that problem. A boost controller, along with the rest of your set up, will allow you to run 10-12psi ish and be fine. You can wire it in if you want and yes you can add some fuel but only a dyno will be able to determine the correction needed. So if you do install it make sure to leave your LOW & HI throttle maps at 0% +/- as that will have the injector's work normally. If you plan on using larger injector's then YES you'll need some sort of fuel management at that point along with either a dyno tune or a tune from someone with a wideband to make sure your a/f's are good. The SAFC will be fine for injector sizes up to 550cc. Some people have run those with no problems while others have said they can't get the right settings and needed more of a stand alone system. I guess it's all a matter of getting lucky. Well I hope that helped you out and good luck with your project. Cheers B)

Blue smoke is FOR SURE oil! The best thing to do is trouble shoot and you can start by doing a compression/leak down test across all 6 cylinders. If when you remove the plugs there's oil on them.....problem. Check that all your gaskets are tight and dry. Check for shaft play on your turbo. Now if it's only happening at idle then there's a good chance it's your motor not your turbo. I had the oppisite problem on my ka-t set up in my 240. It idled fine but under load in boost...blue/white smoke. That turned out to be blown oil seals in the turbo. I would have someone follow behind you and see if there's smoke while your boosting. Don't go nuts but you need to know. These are the easiest methods of trouble shooting and should narrow down exactly what it is. Good luck man and I hope it's nothing serious. Cheers B)

:lol: yeah did'nt think of that. Dear (any) mod please move to the Force Induction section. Thank you. Cheers B)

You can try checking that your altenator is charging the battery properly and if it is, then you've got a draw. Meaning despite the car being off there's still power going to something and causing a drained battery come morning. Worth a check anyway. As for the HICAS prob, maybe be a sensor problem that only acts up periodically and was fine when tested it, most likely (knowing your luck) it worked fine then and then crapped out later on you. These things are hard to trouble shoot so the next time the light comes on, do the test then. Hopefully you'll get an answer. Good luck. Cheers B)

It's most likely an intermitent sensor problem. I had the same problem on my 240 and there's nothing to worry about. All it means is when the light is off, it's working and when it's on it's not. You can either fix it or just leave it as those are your only two choices. Now if you gone with an aftermarket steering wheel/hub combo and did'nt get the HICAS hub, well then unless there's something else that is your problem. When it's not working the HICAS system locks up straight so don't worry about it. I pulled the fuse to the system on the 240 and never had any problems with it.

There is probabley a little left in the block but not enough to worry about. If the drain bolt is that rounded that you can't remove it then the only other thing is to go to a local shop or dealer and have do a rad flush. That of course removes all the old coolant and replaces it with new. Honestly though, I think what you did is just fine. If you go to the shop for anything I think that it should be for the worn drain bolt to be removed if you can't do it yourself.

No one here uses an SAFC?

WOW, holy chrome-age batman! I needed my sun glasses. B) Only kidding man, I think it looks fuzin sweet. You did a hell of a lot of work there and I'm sure the end result will surpass even what you've thought up till this point. The work is so professional and done properly. I really can't say enough, honestly. Now as for your turbo being close to the shock tower, there's 2 options. 1. Bang in the tower for more clearence. - I'm pretty sure based on the work to the engine bay, paint and what not that your not gona do this. :lol: 2. Either buy or fabricate your own engine dampner. - Believe it or not I used a trunk shock from a wrecked 240 hatch and it worked PERFECTLY. The motor only moved a couple of millimeter's and that was while using stock OE engine mounts. Solid bars do work but it puts a lot more stress on the mounts and does'nt really allow ANY movement which is'nt always good. When there's absolutely no give, thats usually when things break. Sometimes stiffer is'nt always better and I think it applys in your case. You did so much nice work that I'd hate to see you have any problems. Anyway just a thought for ya and for sure keep those pic's coming. I will eventually do a 26 in to my R32 GTS once I've finished having fun with the 20. (DAM YOU, YOU BEAT ME TO IT!!!!!! )

Make sure your topped up with oil, take some with you, watch your oil pres gauge and DO NOT pump on it and you'll be fine. Try your best not to make boost and no high rev's either. Do all that and you'll be fine without causing any damage to your motor. I had the same problem on my old 240 and drove around for just over a month and had no prob's. Good luck at the show. Cheers B)

Hi guys whats up. I was just wondering who here is using the Apexi SAFC in there R32 GTS-t's? It does'nt matter if it's version 1 or 2 as I just wanted to know what the +/- fuel correction would be for GTR 444cc injector's? I know the stock GTS injector's are 270cc so to have the GTR injector's behave like GTS injector's whats the number I need to imput in the Low/Hi throttle maps across my NE points? In my old kade engine from my 240, the stock injector's were 270's as well and when I installed SR 370's the correction (untill a dyno tune) was -27 across the board. That let me drive the car at least untill going to the dyno. True it ran a little lean but I did'nt go boost crazy so it was'nt an issue. In fact I did my best to stay out of boost. As well if you maybe post up what your current number's for it are, along with the set up, that will give me a rough starting point at the dyno. I may not be going with an Eprom tune for a little while but I'd like to turn the boost up to around 10psi ish and have the injector's, walboro pump, fpr and SAFC for fuel controll untill then. Any other experiences you've had using the SAFC on an RB20det motor would be appreciated too. Thanks a lot fella's. Cheers B)

Hey guys. Here's the link to the thread, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=73375 He still makes them as I just ordered one over the holidays and recieved it a few days ago. So contact him directly as all the info is there. His name is Mark and +1 for a great seller and product. cheers B)

HOLY BRAIN STRAIN BATMAN Well that was informative while at the same time headache forming. Anyway, I just recently sold my 91 240sx SE that of course had Super HICAS. After looking carefully at the wiring diagram for the car I found that all I had to do was remove a fuse (from the panel inside the car, driver's side) marked ELECTRONICS to disable the HICAS system. That locked it up, straight just as Nissan states, and had no further issues. Now from what I've "heard" the Skylines use a better system but the premiss should still be the same as it's electronically controlled. Disable the system and it'll lock. So I'm gona try this option first and if it does'nt work out properly, I will look in to one of the bars being offered. I'd just really like a clear cut, no nonsense, step by step install (with pic's) for a GTS-t. Anyone willing to post up on this? Thanks guys. Cheers B)

Got mine today and I'm a happy guy. I'll be installing it soon and let you guys know how it works. Thanks again Mark. Cheers B)

Hey man. Not meaning to go "off topic" here but I was curious how easy/hard it was to install that lock up kit? This link here shows a place selling the kit and instructions on how to install it. http://www.getjdmcars.com/catalog/index.ph...products_id=224 Are they correct? Is there anything to add or that you feel is important to mention? Can you remove the kit, hook up the HICAS again to use it if your tracking? Sorry for the questions but I want to install this on my car and just wondered these things. Thanks a lot. Cheers B)

By "bumper support" your talking about the actual metal bumper or re-bar right?

If your talking about the round disc's on the hood latch bracket, thats your horn. Yes you can re-mount them anywhere you want.

Hey man what's up. If your planning on using an aftermarket wheel and hub, let me know how it all went together please. Mainly how easy it was to make the horn work b/c I'll be doing the same thing on my car soon. Thanks a lot. Cheers B)

Yep, my R32 GTS-t is a daily as well and I would'nt have it any other way.