3intheBack

Does this mean we're not doing the rear wing group mould any more??

Obviously no has done it, or we're all too lazy to reply. It would seem to me to be pointless to install a high stall. However a shift kit should do the trick. See the thread in the DIY sticky on 'getting it off the line' works for me. With an IEBC fitted you can pull full boost before the wheels even start to roll, so you cant ask for more then that.

Is that what they mean by "cranking up the stereo."? ha ha ha

I can hear sounds of the hallelujah chorus in the background. And it will only get louder as Darrin's ship comes in.

You're a card Brad...that's as funny as all get out!

Ghostrider - I've said it before and I'll say it again...dont think, just buy! I really cant see how you can go wrong with the Stagea compared with other cars. Obviously, its horses for courses, so it wont do everything, but it does most things very well including good looks. Secondly..it's just that...second hand so dont buy other peoples screw up mods. Typically in the evolution of things the S2 has fixed most of problems associated with the S1 Dont be a fence sitter, hop into the fold.

i'm no mechanic but on our coaches we had to disconnect the computer fuses before connecting the jumper lead to prevent spikes. On the stagea I dont believe this is necessary as there is no power to the computer if the ignition is off (someone can correct me on this) The S2 has a separate quick release terminal on the +ve post which provides all auxillary power the the car. the main leads only power the starter motor. Secondly. most chargers have a hi and low setting. If charging over night, set on low and open breather caps on the battery.

There are pollution control solenoids which ticker away - best solution is to rubber mount them. However these are at the back of the motor and not the front, so I could be sending you on a rabbit hunt.

Sorry for tshe bad typos - the 2yo put a xcup of water into the keyboard this mroning. so it adds the odd s or x here are thexre.

Doesnt say what the abnormality is - it's just a warning. As per Andy's post it obviously stops working otherwise he wouldnt get it so easily sideways in the dirt. As the car is constant AWD there is no switch to turn it off or on. except for the synxchro (S) button which I believe acts more like a central diff lock. Which is why the steering gets heavy on full lock when synchro is activated. Not that I know any of this by expereienxce as mine is 2WD only.

Alex - PM Sent with my address for the pick up of the wing to make your mould. Sorry for the delay guys - AusPost wouldnt take it cause it was 10cm overlength and Easter was a blurr.

According to the manual on pg 63 para 11 if the light comes on or flashes then you have an abnormality in the ATESSA systwem

From where I sit the EX looks advanced. The cam is 2 teeth in front of where it supposed to be. So it will be opening too soon while it is still on the power stroke, and shutting too soon before all exhaust gases are expelled. You definitely need to get it turned back 2 teeth. Every car I have driven with a belt that is one tooth out will run quite smoothly and will have reasonable bottom end (which makes you think that all is OK), but it just wont power on thru the rev range. I've never done the belt on my RB25 but if it is like any other motor you often have to set them at a point were it looks like they are a tooth out (usually the EX has to go one tooth on the counter clockwise side of the marker) - this will be compensated for when the belt tensioner is applied. The belt tensioner will pull the belt a lot tighter then you can by hand, so the extra stretch between the pulleys will pull them back (read - clockwise) into correct alignment. After you have turned the motor over (at least twice) to feel for any valves hitting the piston crowns and if all is OK then the dots should line up properly. If not then take the belt off, rinse throat with ale and repeat. ...for what's it's worth...

No argument from me, I like the red style as well. And side skirts really help to keep the road grime from flicking up off the tyres and onto the side of the doors. Functional yet sporty! As per a previous post, the wing cost $22k - came with a free car. Actually it was a gift from Ernie, along with the baby seat, the timing belt, the 3' cat back exhaust, the cargo floor mat, the cargo mesh barrier, the cargo slide out cover and the stamp duty...I am not sure if he is still in business now, prolly went broke after that deal. Alex, PM sent on freight options

You presumed correctly - it is exactly like the pearl white one - and the same colour as well. Tape across the front should be enough to eliminate the centre mount.

Okly dokly, the standard wing (Genuine Nissan part) I have is 150mm long (front to back). It is 1200mm wide (hangs just over the edge of the car down to the glass window line) and 20mm thick (top edge sits 20mm above the top of the car). It sits flush on the rear door. It is fastened via three bolts - one at each end on the pieces of black plastic that sit inline with the roof rails and one in the middle, directly in front of the windscreen washer/sprayer. The fastening nuts are moulded into the wing. So fixing via the black plastic bits should be easy to do( and hide if you decide to reverse the procedure), but the middle one will require drilling the rear door and wont be easy to hide. Also, it is held by double sided tape along the leading edge and dust foam around the rear and sides. Basically there is no daylight between the car and the wing. So it really helps to square off the tail of the car without looking too hardcore/try hard. Where the dibble dabble are you Alex - Melbourne? I'll check out Busfreight tomorrow, they should do it on the cheap for me. Shall attempt to get hold of a digi camera to reel off a couple of photos for you. For now I think the closest to it is like EGA41T (in the "I'm buying a stagea S2 manual" thread) and it is not like Terminal's signature picture showing 3 stageas all with much larger wings. Hope this helps and doesnt put anyone off the idea if it is not hardcore enough,

I've got a RWD S2. Ernie imported it for his wife so I dont know if that comes under the 'personal' imports. Certainly does everything I wanted it to. I have booked a 'throttle oversteer' day at the local skidpan on May 20 so I'll post up photos after that. (Not allowed to mention the other word for insurance purposes) Sheez I hope Boosted is not reading this, I just mailed the insurance form today!!!! Speaking of throttle oversteer, all you need is an LSD and traction control turned off.

If its anything to you, I have a standard wing sitting on my shelf waiting to be colour matched and fitted. You can borrow it for your mold. P.S. It's not for sale, so, no one get any ideas. It's just been sitting there for 6 months so another couple without it aint gonna hurt. P.P.S I dont know what freight will cost to get it from Gympie QLD

Anybody know how to print out an entire thread without wasting a small forest on paper? If I print the page from my internet browser it takes upto 12 pages of paper per 'page' of thread. And the thread I want to print is the one on an RB30 Conversion which is 177 thread pages. Obviously the best way would be to delete all unnecessary guff and just have the text - even if it is only semi formatted.

I've just found out that I am a very level headed person... ...I am drooling out both sides of my mouth!

Hello Gerry......hello Newman... Time to fess up gerry - you know it's the rev limiter you are sitting on. So back off a bit. Q. Last I heard the record time between Hervey Bay and Maryborough was 7.5 mins on a FJ1100 set by one of the Anderson boys. Has anyone beaten that yet?

Cruisey...you da man! This sounds like the advice of someone who has had their engine out before. Yes, I had tried the main wiring harness (just annoyed that after having half of the dash and a/c unit apart I now have left over screws - however I did manage to make and fit a filter for the a/c recirculating intake). While I was there I even tried poking the wire thru the A/C drip drain outlet. (there is space there with lots of foam around it). Casual observation: Why is it that on the drivers side of the motor you have a total of 3 things - brake booster, plenum and oil filter. While on the turbo side you have everything else, most of which are affected by heat. What were they thinking???

I'm getting ready to install the Jaycar IEBC and DFA and a switch for the IC fan, so I need to run a 5 core cable thru the firewall somewhere. Plus I would like to reroute the Boost guage piping so it doesnt have to run across the door rubber. Has anyone got any ideas of a way thru the firewall without resorting to hacking a new hole? Or has Nissan actually planned ahead and put spare wires in the main loom?

Suckers, I can actually claim to have had NIZMO as number plates.. ..but Ernie wouldnt sell them to me with the car. So I kept the old rego label just for memories sake. Stasis - call Nizmo 0433 076278

I know less then Terminal, But I believe he is right - rust is the result of a simple chemical reaction b/w the electrons in metal and the oxygen in the atmosphere. The presence of moisture speeds up the reaction as it is a good conductor. The whole electronic rust prevention idea works b/c it is based on sound scientific knowledge, but I read somewhere (or maybe heard it on Dr Karl) that you would need lots of electrodes all over the car to provide adequate protection as the area of influence is relatively small. Otherwise you would need a fairly large electical current running through the car body.