oxford1327

Yep, I was hoping to not need to be the first sucker to re-invent the wheel for a change, and thought that surely someone else would have been down the same path? at least once and that they would share the knowledge gained in the process. Even the Nismo clutch type diffs requires changing to a 6 bolt shaft, so was also hoping somebody could remember the driveshafts part numbers used to convert to 6 bolt

Yes as stated in the previous comment, I know there is no direct replacement, so I would need to use a 6 bolt flanged stub axle and different driveshafts. What I'm asking for is which model stubshaft and drive shaft will be the correct lengths to suit the quaife centre that I CAN get and put in my housing.....

OK crew, I've not been able to get any info on whether there is a drop-in fit quaife diff that use standard 30 spline axles with 5 bolt flanges. So I can get either 29 or 31 spline centre that will use 6 bolt stub axles, therefore I need to know which stubs to get and what driveshafts will be the correct length etc for a S2 auto landbarge? Cmon people please gimme something,anything.......

Cheers, just need to know if it's the correct one for the stagea now

Don't suppose you remember the model numbers of them at all? And what model gtr?

I have a head that will need to be recoed, was on a complete engine I bought and it had dropped a valve guide into the cylinder, but not too bad considering. can send photos if want. $600 plus post from Victoria

Heya peeps, I am looking to put a QUAIFE lsd into the rear of my barge. It's a S2 AWD Auto and would like to know if the following model number is the correct unit? QUAIFE model QDF7L to suit an R200 29 spline. Eventually I would like to have an LSD in both ends of the car and to have both the same type, so that's why I wanna have a quaife instead of a clutch type at one end and helical the other that behave differently. Look forward to responses either for or against.

Yeah, nice, got a link?

More than likely be cheaper to buy the complete bar, by time you chop up your stock bar, graft in new section then blend /fill/fibreglass and paint.

Have spoken to MVand bloke told me would need to change a few things inside the trans mechanically before putting a manual valve body in it, because apparently not supposed to be compatible with the B transmission, would also need a different/aftermarket shifter to be able to get first gear, and a new stall converter because it wouldn't be a lock up one. Then I would have to ship it to em etc too. So would be a costly experience

Probably by cutting the lower section out and grafting takeros bit in place

Car already had a nistune and it has been replaced with a new Link G4X stormX ecu so it doesn't have trans control communicating properly, looking more and more likely to end up going manual valve body

I am fine with not having the steering wheel buttons working, and no issues with having to move the shifter etc, was more about dulling the thumping between changes, especially on down shifts. Will see how it goes with new clutch packs and band for now, but full manual valve body is looking more and more likely in the future

So yours was a B?

Cheers, will look em up and hit em up

Will most likely not fit on a STD bar because the bottom below tailgate is different shape

Have heard back from 2 controller manufacturers and neither support the RE401B, they both support the A model but the B has extra solenoids and harder to get around electronically apparently. So the search continues, next step is to get hold of MV and see what they can suggest

Awesome work, thanks heaps for the knowledge, truly appreciate it and will try to put it to good use, I'll have a chat with mv automatics and my tuner to see what they can find/recommend etc, and show them this thread to have a kick off point. I'm gonna start researching as best I can in the meantime and smashing the inboxes of manufacturers to see what shakes out. Cheers

I have a link G4X StormX ecu installed and that is what we think is giving the trans control unit the shits, there has been some development at link and haltech to start basic control circuit etc but it hasn't been refined as yet so there's not a lot of troubleshooting guidance so far, I've sent off an email to a TCU mob that list jatco RE4 +RE5 boxes however the model RE4R01B is not shown, so I've asked if it is supported with their unit, awaiting the response. I will look into the TCM PCS model range and see what I can dig up. Cheers again for the help

Cheers for the knowledge, who makes these control boxes and how many first born will need to be sacrificed for one? Also, how much buggering about would you expect to allow for set-up, and was it a drawn out process to get yours to work at an acceptable level or is it something that has a depth of knowledge available?

Just called trans service and they've said box is currently out of the car being diagnosed and do far has shown signs of bands slipping, and potential clutch pack wear, so they're being replaced asap and uprated flex plate being installed as well when it goes back in

Generally only flares between 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd when under light load and cold, once it's warmed up and sink the hoof into it it shifts as it should, it's like it can decide to shift and is holding out for more throttle, the 3rd to 4th in either direction once warm and under light throttle cannot decide if it wants to shift or just coast with the convertor unlocked, well that is how it sounds and feels to me

And as a side note, yes the entire set of solenoids have been replaced with brand new units about 15000klms ago which was about 2000klms after the shift kit was installed as it was recommended by MV automatics as well as my local trans builder/service provider to do the solenoids as well just because they're 20+ yrs old

As stated I have had a manualised trans before and it was fine when under heavy acceleration, however it was only a 2 speed, hence I asked how much of a Pita is it gonna be with a 4 speed around town, and shifting gears/"stirring levers" isn't the issue. With reference to the ECU fluffing around, it is flaring on up shift between 2nd+3rd when cold, then sometimes between 3rd 4th in both directions when at running temp as the Trans Control Unit isn't accurately communicating with the ECU and it doesn't seem to know whether to keep the converter locked up or release etc

Hello all, I am seeking information on real life experiences of having a manual valve body in a series 2 stagea, as in how harsh are the changes when just tootling around town etc. I've had a manualised auto before but it was in a Torana hatch with a 350 chev and power glide, so it be vastly different being a 4 speed. I already have a stage 2 shift kit installed from MV Automatics and am currently sitting at 295awkw and the new ecu is having an occasional fluff around, so have been contemplating the manual valve body. Look forward to the potential flame show coming my way. Cheers