oxford1327

I'm pondering on the idea of fitting a water to air intercooler setup, and would like to know if anybody else has done one in a stagea, I already know the Pro's/Cons but I fully expect to get the standard responses of "just do what everyone else has done and put a giant front mount and chop the car to bits it's easier", but I don't wanna do that. I like the fact already that stageas are not the Norm, and kinda wanna stick with that path and do something different, like I did with the intake piping instead of going the standard route of putting a FFP and throttle body so I could fit the Audi R8 coilpacks in there, I had a 10mm plenum spacer made and modified the stock throttle body and J pipe for clearances etc... plus the fact that i could potentially cut the piping lengths to a bare minimum as well as virtually no boost loss/restriction. so come on brains trust give me some examples if you have any, or have seen what others have used and what vehicles they came off to adapt to Stagea, have done the inevitable google search on skylines etc with water to air coolers and got pretty much ZIP.

These still available? Where are you located? Cheers! They are sold now, thanks for your interest

had splitfires in it and wanted something different with a ton more spark power and that ran cooler, after using the thermal gun on splitfires fresh from a couple of power runs on the highway there was average 35 degrees difference on each coil between the R8 coils and the splitfires in the same engine, same weather conditions etc, and anything electronic that runs cooler is a win and worth it I reckon ,yeah it was a bit of work but realistically once i had the spacer made and throttle body/intake pipe modified and welded it was probably 5 hours work all up and a couple hundred bucks plus the cost of the coilpack conversion, came to about $80-90 more than a new set of splitfires

Plenum spacer was put in to allow clearance for the R8 coilpack heights, so I was able to keep the crossover intake instead of having to go with a FFP

Motor had rebuild from previous owner at around 180k, had split fires in it, and have just put the R8 coils in as well as the plenum spacer, boost leaks are hopefully solved and despite what you may have heard about certain tuners in Victoria it Will Not be going there ever again! I have a few other recommendations that I'll be chasing up very soon from a few motorsports contacts that I don't have to travel 3+ hours drive to get to, and will actually talk to you on the phone

am looking for info or pictures on the drive mechanism for the height adjusters on the sides of the xenon headlights, specifically if they are on a single keyway type arrangement or a spline type that can be skipped a tooth. reason being one side of mine is adjusted as far as possible in the downward position on the screw and is still looking for possums in the trees, and if i go any further it jams and makes the motor to raise/lower activate. kinda wanted to see if anybody had pics of one apart without the need to pull mine to bits first

already have all of the above except for the fuel pump. have a hamburger with the lot highflow from hypergear, bosch 725cc injectors, return flow front mount, Nistune and GFB atmo blow-off as well as GFB boost controller. so am hoping that now I've added a set of Audi R8 coilpacks and a 10mm plenum spacer as well as tightened up the boost leaks it should get a lot closer to where I'd like it to be. and can get another tuner that will actually use a frickin spanner to fix the fuelling from the last mob leaving it super rich and sending me away with no communication other than via text message cos they are "too busy" to speak to you EVER...

at this point I am only looking to get into the mid 200kw at the treads range so it appears it won't need cams then, and am much better off chasing gains elsewhere, currently sitting at 175kw at all 4 with boost leaks when it was "tuned" and since some other mods have been done and hopefully all the boost leakage has been resolved it is due to be retuned to see what it can make on pump 98, as there is only 1 E85 outlet within 90-ish K's it isn't worth me going down that route

ok cheers for that, after much contemplation, forum post diving and brief discussion with mechanic I've decided to not worry about cams just yet from both a financial and current power point, from everything I have gleaned it's not worth me doing without sacrificing some everyday driveability around town etc...as well as a bucket of coin I could spend elsewhere and achieve similar results for less cost blah blah blah.. but I will say your setup looks The Tits!! and am very Jelly...

These still available? Where are you located? Cheers! At this point they are sold pending payment in next 2 weeks, if sale doesn't go through I'll let you know. Cheers

when you put the cams in what other bits did you have to replace? shims,buckets,seats, springs etc or was it a complete new setup? am pondering on fitting some poncams to my neo, but i wanna get an idea of total parts required so i can suss out the cost before i commit.

Got nistune in it, but didn't need to change anything for it to start and run fine so far. Once it goes back to dyno will alter the dwell time as per recommended by 5-0ignite that make the kit. Thus far car runs and idles smoother, as well as no longer seems to stutter under high throttle load, whether that's the old noggin playing tricks remains to be seen once dyno sheet is compared etc.

Installed Audi R8 coilpack conversion kit from 5-0 ignite, had to do some intake mods for clearances, otherwise would need to have changed to front face plenum and costs/other mods weren't desirable at this point

price drop and bump up. $600 for the lot, including the standard rear calipers and pads.

decided to go with the 5-0 ignite Audi R8 coil conversion setup, ordered today so am hoping will be delivered by the weekend so can sneak them in on nightshift over the weekend if workshop isn't busy, only replacing splitfires as brains trust consensus is that the engine has a suspected dodgy one firing intermittently at idle and mid range where car spends most of its rev-time, so because I subscribe to the old rule of if you are taking the time and coin to do one, you may as well do all of them, instead of having to go back and do it again later anyway, and after researching options and bang for buck etc, the Audi coil conversion was the middle ground costwise with the best plug-and-play setup coming in at a total of $710 delivered for all the bits, including 6x bosch coilpacks, mounting plate, brackets and wiring harness. while I am at it I'll do a plug heat range change and re-gap to suit. be interested if anyone else on here has done this conversion and the results, ease of changeover etc?

Cheers for that, my local parts stores are populated by deadshits that aren't willing to attempt to cross reference anything for you, they see it as our job to do that, and they just blindly order it

have trawled through endless pages of forum posts and am not seeing a part number listing for front steering rack ends and tie rod ends, or what they are compatible with IE: R33 or R34 skyline, maxima, hell even Navara or Pootrol. I am starting to get a little bit of movement in one of the rack ends and local parts outlets and workshops are useless when it comes to finding listings of parts or compatibility, and to make it even worse the mouth breathing nufty's that occupy space behind the local nissan parts counter are also less than helpful, they have had their access to FAST removed by Nissan australia apparently. if someone is able to give me a compatibility part number/model of car from locally available stuff would be awesome, car is Series 2 RS4 AWD auto. thanks in advance, and whomever has access to said part number would they be able to get them added into the stagea parts list sticky perhaps?

So what was the eventual cost figures for kit and required bits and bobs to complete the project?

so do they give equivalent or better spark intensity than say a set of splitfires? and what cost point are they compared to splitfires etc??

what loom changes etc were needed to be made? is there a tutorial on this somewhere perhaps? and what are the advantages please?

Steering wheel is complete and fitted now, came up awesome with the new leather covering, line of sight to Guage cluster is nice unless you're a really short bugger, then it cuts off the top of speedo and tacho a touch. Otherwise I'm wrapt in the results, feels nice in the hands, and gives ample leg clearance with the new recaro chairs now too.

I like having insurance intact as well as maintaining a closer state of roadworthy ?

Further progress on steering wheel mods. Sanded to shape today, came up pretty good, well I think so anyway ha ha ha. Now comes the expensive bit, first estimate for re-cover in leather was $400-500, so several quotes to come before finishing off. Here's some dodgy pictures that give indication of size changes

In the process of modification of the steering wheel into a flat bottom and top unit that retains the airbag. Cut off the old foam in sections where changes are made, strengthened the construction and tig welded new sections in place, then carefully removed foam from a different model wheel to replace and reshape once urethane adhesive has cured

WTB bride seat rail passenger side suit stagea S1 and S2, model number N120M0 or N120R0