oxford1327

WTB, chasing a bride seat rail for passenger side of series 1&2 Stagea, part number N120M0

Chasing a passenger side bride seat rail, suit a series 1&2 stagea. Part number N120M0

rims and tyres are sold

okey dokey, thanks for that I will give them a call and see what they can offer me

HA Ha Ha Ha Ha Possibly Be Worth The Drive

hello all, I have done a bit of searching and am yet to find the answers I seek, I am wanting to get the Nistune upgrade done as soon as possible, to go with the new high flow hyper gear and injectors etc that will be getting installed very shortly, yet I seem to be having issues in finding a reliable installer and tuner that will respond, I've heard many good things about a certain tuner on the eastern side of Melbourne but after 4 attempts at contacting them to see when I'd be able to make a booking etc I have given up and am seeking recommendations, even after I sent them at their request the list of mods that are currently done, as well as what is about to be done to the car, still only got crickets from their end.....I am from Ballarat about 1 1/2 hours drive West from Melbournistan, and don't mind travelling for the right shop . car is a series 2 RS4 tiptronic auto Stagea, so come on peoples hit me up with some recommendations

cheers for that, would kinda prefer something on the western side , but will keep them in mind

Rightio, I reckon it'd be a safer play to trailer it there just cos I'd rather not risk it

ok cheers for that, once the Nistune is installed onto my ecu I'm guessing it wont be drivable anyway because of the new injectors, turbo , AFM etc, so either way it'll need to be trailered/tilt trayed to the tuner, but what you have suggested may save a bit of time

hello all, I have done a bit of searching and am yet to find the answers I seek, I am wanting to get the Nistune upgrade done as soon as possible, to go with the new high flow hyper gear and injectors etc that will be getting installed very shortly, yet I seem to be having issues in finding a reliable installer and tuner that will respond, I've heard many good things about a certain tuner on the eastern side of Melbourne but after 4 attempts at contacting them to see when I'd be able to make a booking etc I have given up and am seeking recommendations, even after I sent them at their request the list of mods that are currently done, as well as what is about to be done to the car, still only got crickets from their end.....I am from Ballarat about 1 1/2 hours drive west from Melbournistan, and don't mind travelling for the right shop . car is a series 2 RS4 tiptronic auto Stagea, so come on peoples hit me up with some recommendations

I would be checking the universal joints, and all of the drive shafts for bearing failure before opening up the diff centre, if you have already made sure the fault is not there, then i would look at the diffs, but as GTSBoy said above when assembling a new differential centre out of other parts or new parts some very critical measurements need to be carried out and therefore sometimes it is better to purchase an entire centre already set to the correct tolerances etc.

It will let me edit other posts but that one is locked out on me...

Insert Edit: the slotted rotors should be listed as 296mm but it won't allow me to edit the first post.

EDIT: the slotted rotors should be listed as 296MM but it is not allowing me to edit the original post

ok fair enough,thanks for clarifying that for me. I am unsure as to which model they came off as they were on the stagea when I bought it, so I was only going off what I have been told from others. I'll work out how to edit the ad to reflect that they are 296mm rotors as soon as I can, but i am having trouble finding where to edit the first post, any help appreciated????

I had them inside 18" rims with the 324mm rotors fitted, but when I bought a new set of rims in a different brand they fouled on the inside shoulder of the calipers against the back of the spoke, and because I'm stubborn and wanted that rim I changed complete brake system to be able to use that wheel. So most Japanese spec wheels in 17" and over should fit over them

I'm led to believe that they are from an R33 GTR, and or an R34 GTT, I had them on a series 2 stagea

set of Nissan R33 skyline GTST/GTT Sumitomo brake calipers and slotted DBA 290mm rotors, as well as adapter plates and newly machined 324 mm rotors to suit a Skyline, Stagea or S14/15, I purchased the adapter plates and 324mm rotors 2nd hand along with a full set of new pads to suit and was going to fit them to my car but were too small to fit behind my rims to allow clearance of the spokes, so the entire braking system was changed out.these Sumitomo calipers and 296mm rotors are usually installed as an upgrade on a Stagea which is what they were fitted to when I bought it, so if you were to combine the calipers adapter plates and the big rotors it'll be streets ahead compared to stock.the adapter plates and pair of rotors by themselves new is around $600, so am thinking $620 for the entire box of stuff is cheap, will also chuck in the standard nissan rear stagea rotors and calipers if they are wanted for and extra $50, enough to cover the cost of the brand new bendix pads in them.not interested in swaps in general, and definitely not interested in lowball offers.can freight at buyers cost if required, but pick up preferred

set of KOYA Endless B19 semi-forged rims in black, they have a bit of rash on a couple and one has a small repairable crack, shown in picture with pointy finger.2 of the tyres are less than 2000 k's old the other 2 are around 10,ooo k's, all well within roadworthy condition.the rims are 5x114.3 stud so will fit Ford and Nissan that I know of, they are 19X8.5" with an off set of 6.these rims came on the car I bought and hung out of the guards too far for a roadworthy on the rears, so I took em off and they've sat in the shed ever since, now they are gathering dust and I need the room, the tyres alone are worth more than the asking price so wont entertain lowball offers, and not interested in swaps thanks . $600 for the lot to SAU members.can freight at buyers cost if required, but pick up preferred

set of KOYA Endless B19 semi-forged rims in black, they have a bit of rash on a couple and one has a small repairable crack, shown in picture with pointy finger.2 of the tyres are less than 2000 k's old the other 2 are around 10,ooo k's, all well within roadworthy condition.the rims are 5x114.3 stud so will fit Ford and Nissan that I know of, they are 19X8.5" with an off set of +6.these rims came on the car I bought and hung out of the guards too far for a roadworthy on the rears, so I took em off and they've sat in the shed ever since, now they are gathering dust and I need the room, the tyres alone are worth more than the asking price so wont entertain lowball offers, and not interested in swaps thanks . $600 for the lot for SAU memberscan freight at buyers cost if required, but pick up preferred

set of Nissan R33 skyline GTST/GTT Sumitomo brake calipers and slotted DBA 290mm rotors, as well as adapter plates and newly machined 324 mm rotors to suit a Skyline, Stagea or S14/15, I purchased the adapter plates and 324mm rotors 2nd hand along with a full set of new pads to suit and was going to fit them to my car but were too small to fit behind my rims to allow clearance of the spokes, so the entire braking system was changed out.these Sumitomo calipers and 290mm rotors are usually installed as an upgrade on a Stagea which is what they were fitted to when I bought it, so if you were to combine the calipers adapter plates and the big rotors it'll be streets ahead compared to stock.the adapter plates and pair of rotors by themselves new is around $600, so am thinking $620 for the entire box of stuff is cheap, will also chuck in the standard nissan rear stagea rotors and calipers if they are wanted for and extra $50, enough to cover the cost of the brand new bendix pads in them.not interested in swaps in general, and definitely not interested in lowball offers.can freight at buyers cost if required, but pick up preferred

Rightio, cheers, will give it a go in next week or so and see what happens, then next on agenda is the transfer case

Okey dokey, I just thought it has several bleeding points so it might need to be pressure bled so to speak, and therefore deduced the vacuum method might have bypassed the airlock bit of the process

I am looking to replace the Atessa system fluid and wondering if I can use a vacuum bleeding pump setup to flush system from front to back or vice versa? Then do standard air pressure bleed if required? And yes I have searched and found the standard ways to do it with powering pump etc, but looking for one man operation options. Other thought is whether system cycles every start up I could vacuum out reservoir and wipe etc, then put fresh fluid in every couple of weeks until it's reasonably diluted to an acceptable OCD level ha ha ha ha ha ha.? Hit me up with options peoples.. Then once this has been achieved I'll do the diffs and transfer cases

most likely a shift solenoid or stuck accumulator in the transmission at a guess