Ultimategtr

I would lean towards a full ecu if possible. Im in a similar boat. My turbo is on its way out and have eyed up a larger turbo which ill be getting very soon. I bought a BRAND new SAFC Neo for peanuts(mates rates). However im contemplating whether to have it tuned or sell it, put the money aside, save up for a Link G4 and get it tuned once and for all. Like everyone said tho, if you have a stock turbo you could do with a safc, however, when you do get 200rwkw, i bet you my bottom dollar that you WILL want more, and then you will realise "Doh, iv hit a brick wall". I know its hard, but you will end up saving money in the long run. Just my 2c.

+1 for plugs.. clean or replace plugs, then spanner check the intake pipes.

Hey dude, have you looked up Tomei dump pipes? Theyre in a similar price range but the Tomei is the bellmouth design. Heaps of stockists in welly. I got mine from Soichi @ ST-HITECH up here in auckland. If you run out of luck, ring him up and he can sort you out! PM me if you want his number.

I think the person who told you that you'l lose low end torque was slightly mistaken - Its the initial response you might lose. If you think about it, it makes sense, upgrading to a bigger dump means that theres just a little bit of extra volume to be filled by exhaust gases. You will not lose torque at all. More like it will increase your torque overall through out the rev-range.

As soon as i read the threads title, i knew it had something to do with R&R. The sensible idea would be to run a VERY low boost - around 5-7psi on your setup and save up for a power FC. You dont want to be running with RNR all the time - Think of what all the bore washing would do to your rings and your oil. Good luck!

I was in the same boat a month ago. Bought the Gizzmo MS-IBC. I cant find anything bad about it. So dam easy to install/tune. The hardest bit for ME was finding a good IGN power feed as i didnt have a Multi-meter or anything. From start to finish, it took me about 3 hours. I like the AVC-R however i dont like the big TV screen that comes with it. The MS-IBC is soo compact that people cant see it from the outside.

Hey, maybe im a bit confused, i thougth that the GT-T's came out with 206kw(flywheel) as well as the GTR? Ok maybe not 206 but it should still have considerably more then the R33 (187). So on paper given a high 20% D/T loss, a healthy GTT should see around 160-170rwkw stock form am I not correct in thinking that? 184hp is a mere 137rwkw. When was it serviced last? Could you post up your dyno sheet by any chance?

Just a wild question, its probably been asked before, but i couldnt be bothered reading through the 20+ pages. Does anyone know if there are any decent tuners for the vipec here in Auckland, NZ?? and roughly how much for drive in drive out?

Isnt it so that it depends on the tune rather then the fuel?

Good one mate! Im happy you got that sorted out!! I got the ebc for $240 from modyoucar.com.au when they had the special. Over here in nz, it retails for around 5-600! so i got it for half price inc delivery. Just out of curiousity, hows your torque curve? Whats your peak torque and at what rpm? When i had mine stock, with just a catback and a pod, it made 330-340 Peak and over 300Nm from 2200 onwards.

I vouch for the Gizzmo MS-IBC. Stealth install and so easy to install and tune. Fixed my boost creep issues once and for all.

+1 to #11 The lights do have a very slight resemblence to that of the modena. I kinda like the front, however the rear is as ugly as a huntchback's ass.

+1 to above. I think people confuse response with Lag. i found out personally that after installing a full dump/front i lost a wee bit of response down low, however it surely made up for it up top.

Get an EBC, then WMI(water meth injection) and THEN a retune. should make heaps more power. Then fit an oil cooler/radiator etc if you want.

I now can say that i solved my boost issues once and for good. I was beginning to doubt my actuator too. I bit the bullet and bought a brand new Gizzmo MS-IBC and what a diff. Super easy to install and tune. Tuning took me just around 10 mins. Just have to fine tune it now but i did that on the motoway to work this morning Boost comes on super quick compared to the stock actuator. Rock steady 7psi to the redline. Sorry but i have to suggest an ebc. Just out of curiosity, have you tried one at all? Trust me, i thought i had a "too free flowing" exhaust as well but its not.

Have you checked for any boost leaks? After reading through i assume you have tried to run a hose off the intercooler nipple straight to the w/g actuator? and you only got 4psi?

EPIC Fail this thread mate. Im going to show this to my mates at work who drive honda's. Could we sticky this thread please mods? I feel this thread will enlighten and bring joy to other people out there. EDIT - I had a look on Nengun.com and i think the attached pic will be able to give him the desired "VROOM" effect.

No. R33 ecus cant sense boost. I believe the 32's can. How do you mean cuts out? what do you feel/hear?

lol. How does one drive with a flat "stick"?

I get them bad. So bad that sometimes it makes me jump a step back. Its amusing for my wife and the on lookers but dam annoying for me. Will try the grounding thing, i just never bothered to look it up haha. I just saw the thread so ill give it a go. Cheers

I couldnt care less of what they think of it. Correct me if im wrong but they dont seem to have a clue about skylines at all. For those who remember the episode where they compared the R32 33 and 34 R's, they claimed the R33's brakes were shot and at any given time, for no reason, the discs WILL explode, amongst various other BS they pulled out of their a55's. imho - they just arent cut to drive the GTR, at all.

I have heard that they do run. however it needs to be modified a bit.

Right next to the fuel de-ionizer which i believe is built into the amazing Bosch fuel filter.

CEF - Sorry are you referring to me? If so, then, thats a good question. I will have a look at it tonight first thing when i get back from work! Mine is a series 2 tho, so does your question apply to me?

Hey bud, you got splitfires and gives you code 21? I get the same thing for some reason, however i cant see/feel any difference, drives/boosts fine and hard. Im not sure if its a problem or not.