Ultimategtr

1)Boost/Vacumm leak 2)AFM connecter loose(or something to do with the AFM). >> Most likely 3) Injector correction - you say you cannot save?? Could be the issue?

Dude - thats one good write up! I think all of us should read it and reflect. Personally - its not how fast my car goes, or that it runs xx psi, or runs a 55mm external on the stock turbo. Its all about how it makes you feel OWNING it.

that grating sound is the relay not letting the starter retract from the ring gear. Not a real biggie. I have that sound too esp on a COLD morning. I just crank her over a few times without starting, then start and usually the sound wont happen.

Now that is nice

Word of advice - Stick with the stock airbox unless you are going to make a proper Cold air intake for it, otherwise no point, except for the intake sound. Before you start modifying it, do a full service. Put some decent oil(box/engine/diff). Do the basics first and make sure she is in good health.

Before you fork out for a new battery - follow PM's advice - also clean terminals and check acid level. Wouldnt hurt to empty it out, flush it through with some warm tap water then refill with DISTILLED water and give it a charge overnight. I had a similar issue where i found out my battery was completely empty - I cleaned her up and refilled with D/water and it worked fine for over a year before I replaced it.

1) Full service - oil/plugs/timing/etc 2) A decent EBC 3) Full exhaust/dump etc 4) Good set of tires and brakes(pads/fluid/machined rotors) 5) Do your bushes if you havent done so already. 6) Dyno to check AFR's and so on. 7) Suspension/springs That setup will net you around 190rwkw and be super responsive. Hard to beat on the street. That would be my pick, as If you add a ecu, then it would be better if you changed the injectors and pump at the same time. Then add a bigger radiator and an oil cooler. I didnt mention clutch because you already have that I believe?

Maybe it somehow detected the owner had insuffecient funds for a service, and decided to drive itself to the nearest bank? After all, its got GPS. Plausible.

One of my friends put a Nismo FP in his R33 25t and since then it backfired alot and ran rich. He made 196rwkw @7psi boost. I think the dyno was rather happy tho. He was also having issues with flatspots etc afterwards.

Personally: CHILLED bottle of V Lift Plus Coke ^ In glass bottles only!

My advice is leave the timing alone(15). Save up and get a power FC or get a nistune. Might want to turn the boost down to 9-10 if youre going to be taking her to the track.

MS-IBC. Piss easy to install/tune.

Do a ecu reset and check Base timing. Check boost to make sure its under 10-11psi. Do give more details of the plugs you used.

Doubt you would make 200rwkw by 4500rpm. More like 5-6k.

exhaust manifold gaskets maybe.. is it worse when you drive when the engine is warm?

After reading through all replies, theres no mention of the grade of oil being used, or when it was last changed?? What oil are you using? and when was it changed last(inc the filter)?

Mate - Gizzmo MS-IBC for sure! It took me around 1 hour to hook it up and and around 15 min to tune it on the road - First time I had ever installed an ebc. VERY easy to hide and imho is probably the BEST out there for the money you spend on it. The actual tuning process is MUCH easier then how it is in the PDF guide.

REDGTT is on the ball. def the starter motor not retracting.. well the relay. Happens to me too. Happens to my mate with an R as well. No biggy unless the sound is VERY loud, then you need to pay some attention. What i do is that I crank it a few times without letting it start.. then start her up and the noise wont happen.. or will but very little. Not a fix but will reduce the noise.

lol, its funny reading a few stories. I still think the gtst will win, plainly cos the honda is stock.. however it would be a close race I say. I once raced my mates 2000 2.2 prelude vtec with catback/pod/vtec controller @ 5k. Race 0-160kish. My 25t had fmic/full exh/ebc set to 7psi and my turbo was on its way out.. hence the stock boost. He was always begging me to race him.. saying how bad he would smoke me.. and his car felt quicker and tighter then mine.. so yeh. He launch from around 2-3k, i didnt.. he jumped ahead for maybe 2 secs.. By the time i hit 2, he was at least 1 meter behind mine, and the gap increased to around 3-5 meters by the time we hit 150k. He was full revving his out, where as I was limiting my shifting to around 5700rpm(I didnt want to rev too high cos of turbo). I couldnt beleive it... so he tried it again but this time rolling start.. same thing happened. lol. He said that he noticed i wasnt revving mine out. He never gained up on me.. if i revved higher then I would have pulled away easily. Also, on the motorway @ 100k, going uphill, we were both side by side.. Im in 5th @ stock boost(7psi). He was also in 5th, We both floor it and i easily pull away.. he had to chop to 4th to keep up and pull away from me. We both had a full interior, an extra passenger and around 1/2 tank gas(BPU in both).

is your R33 auto or manual? If manual should make an easy meal.. However stock for stock, the honda would have the slight edge.. mainly due to the weight.

Gizzmo MS-IBC. Took me about 1 hour to hook it up, and set the boost. Holds it rock steady! Has 6 boost levels and a scramble as well. I like it because it JUST controls boost whenever i put my foot down. Personally, i dont like the extra functions of the other ebc's.. eg gear selective boosting etc as when you have problems, you will have more places to look at, whcih means more headaches, but thats just my opinion. For the stock turbo, any ebc should do the trick. Its only when you have a big turbo setup that you need more precise control, eg dual solenoid controllers, etc. It really comes down to how much you want to spend. Google the top brands and look for comparisons, cos thats what i did.

Nothing wrong with the geniune Master power turbos. I know of 2 gtrs running 10s and high 11s on them, and have been for some time.

I got around 480-520ks from my FULL tank of freeway driving with a few quick squirts on the motorway. That was BPU.. havent tried a full tank of Gull E10 yet.. should be less.

For the R34gtt - im unsure what the base timing should be however i would have assumed it would be around 15. Once, on my 33, i felt it sluggish - checked the base timing and it was 12 instead of 15(factory spec). However though, if yours was supposed to be 15, but set to 5, then you would def feel it the lack of response and power.

yeh but once you go for a quick squirt around the block youre going to have massive heat soak - ie back to square one. only reason to put on a 34smic is if your gettin it for free.. or close - otherwise stick to ur factory smic.. run low boost, dont thrash it around too much, save up and get a fmic.