Ultimategtr

stolen s15 - are you running a pfc or a piggy back?

+1 to coils - clean out the coil contacts and check for any hairline cracks. if poss try revvin engine at night to see if any coils are arcing.. +1 to plugs. what type plugs u got in there? take them out and inspect color(brown - rich, white - lean, black - oil). put in some new plugs pregapped to .8mm.

ahh ok thats cool then. i dont have #10 socket here so il have to leave it till the weekend, my dad has all the tools in the world inc compressed air.. ill pull the actuator apart this weekend. thanks for your help paul. much appreciated. ill post up when i have pulled apart the actuator.

hey man, just tried it, i have the heat shield on my factory turbo.. do i need to take the heat shielf off? with it all connected, i tried nudging it but it wouldnt budge??? should it be something that moves easily, or do i need some actual efford into it? i didnt pull much cos dont want to wreck it.

thats true. i was interested in the injectors.. i had a look just before.. does the injector loom have a single plug? (like the coil loom) if so then i can unplug it in the engine bay at nights.

yeh got my eyes on a kill switch too. how did you install urs? any diagrams? ill see if i can take out some fuses for extra extra safety. haha. going overboard? i dont think so

hey thanks for that man, really appreciate it. makes sense too. ill have a go at it after work today. well i have a TOMEI dump pipe(bellmouth design) and a front pipe. the flapper isnt being restricted by the dump pipe at all. i had a split dump pipe before which i thougth was causing the problem, but wasnt. So if i go out for a spin with the actuator wired open and i dont get any boost, it means the exhaust is up to spec and not too restrictive right? then could it be the actual spring in the actuator? or what could it be? sorry to ask these questions. i did try searching but the results were immense and i couldnt be bothered sifting through 100's of pages for answers.

Hi all. live in an apartment, therefore its parked in the open at nights. There was a holden stolen from the carpark yesterday in broad daylight..... so its made me extra cautious about my baby! i have a mongoose alarm in my car, and a steering bar thingy. plus i unplug the coil loom every night.. i want to disable more circuitory.. eg starter, fuel pump.. if i unplugged the CAS, would the motor start at all?? i want to disable the fuel pump and starter too.. how can i do that??? sorry im just really paranoid since my cars the "most eye catching" in our apartment.... any help woudl be much appreciated. thanks

RB2530 - thanks for that.. yes it was spiking even before i put the tap on.. when i had the facotry solenoid on there, even unearthed, it would spike up to like 14-15psi. Then i took the solenoid off, and hooked up the actuator straight to a pressure source, and got about 5psi, however that too would spike to about 14psi by the redline(in any gear) the atomic tap(set to 7psi) has improved it but it still spikes. but only to 12psi or so. iv got my guess on the actuator but im not exactly sure how to test it.. i was under the impression that i pull the actuator open and go for a lil spin(it shouldnt build boost at all).. and then what? what doe that proove?? EDIT - Justin911 - thanks for that i have just purchased that thru ebat! cos me $47 NZD so hopefully gets delivered to me by this week or next.

the new z06 is actually quite good.. does 105km/h in first gear.. im a big fan of it. The GTR hasnt lost a single comparison/race so far.. i didnt think it would be quicker then the R8, but hell!!!

awesome cheers. bought!

Hi all. R33-25t mods: FMIC Apexi pod with CAI Full 3inch exh(no cat) Splitfire coils NGK copper .8mm HR7 plugs Fully serviced - oil filter etc Atomic boost tap Alright, so before i used the factory solenoid earthed and got up to 13psi by the redline or so.. now with the Atomic boost tap(set to 7psi) it holds 7psi till about maybe 5k, then gradually increases to around 12-13psi by the redline, in any gear.... i hardly let it near the redline anyway. i want this issue fixed.. any ideas how to? its a bit annoying at times.

ok im runnin an atomic boost tap set to 7psi but spikes up to 12psi by the redline... i want one of those $22 boost controllers but im in nz.. i tried lookin up on ebay but not much luck does the guy who makes it still come on here? i want one.

what was the timing set to before he advanced it??? i know the B/T should be 15 degrees. a similar thing happened to me.. my timing was out by about 4 degrees. when my tuner reset it to 15 again, it spun the rears till 90k or so. its possible for the cambelt to slip a few teeth.

hmmm it was running "fine" before. that doesnt necessarily mean the injectors werent maxing out. There could have been a problem before which maybe wasnt as bad as it is now.. anyway, check your plugs. i bet $2 its your plugs. splash out for some new plugs!

Could you describe the problem? is it spluttering, missing, flatspots?? Youre running the factory ecu? and the factory injectors? my guess would be the injectors maxing out. have you tried running eg 7psi? in saying that, it could also be a spark/coil issue - what plugs are u running(gap). have you had a GOOD look at the coils? I would first turn check out the plugs and coils closely.. inspect the plug tips closely( i think white means the cylinders leaning out, brown is rich and black is oil). if that checks out ok, try putting new plugs in eg NGK .7mm coppers HR7(you would want a colder plug perhaps). if the tips are ok, then i would suspect it to be ur injectors maxing out. in saying that, it could also be a collapsed cat.. do the easy ones first as ur problem will most likely be something simple.

hey man. have you checked your timing????

+1 on fuel pump wiring. if all fails, take fuel pump out and test with battery.

what gap are ur plugs running? i had the same problem with the stock coils.. i replaced with .8mm NGK coppers and it went away..

nice result! what are ur afr's?? id assume ur running a rich tune?

hey chuck.. my bets on ur AAC valve.. takes about 30 mins to clean out.. purple valve by drivers strut.. attached to the inlet mani.. theres an excellent diy which i used for my car.. give that a go

hey bud. might be unrelated.. my R33 25t.. i get a whizzing sound too.. my turbo is stock, no shaft play, oil etc so thats normal. ppl on the streets hear my turbo spooling up haha. kinda cool at times.. but i try to keep a low profile.

alright so my tuner just had a look at it.. reckns its the aac valve.. thing is now that it idles at 2000rpm and doesnt stall as often.. maybe say 2/5 times only. so were gna quickly clean out the aac tonight, if that doesnt fix it ill chuck on my stock bov.

sorry i meant that when he drives it, it runs fine, boosts normal etc, nothing funny happens, except when idling.. its had me baffled.

LOL. this thread has been the highlight of my day! keep em coming!! haha