warps

Not Mine There ya go. Who said there were no reasonably priced 240K coupes anymore Even has triple Webers, cam and roll cage (bolt in - so removable if wanting to street it)

Yep - Simon's a good fellow. He knows his auto electrics - has provided lots of valuable info over the years. He's written some excellent tech posts on setting up thermo fans, relocating batteries to the boot, and upgrading alternators (although the alt upgrades are Mazda specific). You might find that you have to upgrade the wiring to your lights as well. I dare say that the (cheap) original wiring in your Dat won't be up to the task ,and have some massive losses. Running new wiring with relays, and proper battery feed will make even the standard sealed beam candles much brighter.

I'm confused. What's so special about these? They're a standard semi sealed kit, no? I fitted these to my 180B over 20 years ago. Hardly anything new there. You can buy the same from Hella, Narva, Supa cheap or just about any car accessories shop in Australia. By the time you convert the $$ and pay postage, you will get good quality stuff here in Oz with a warranty. Dude at Ausrotary selling kits here: http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=139477

4WD and AWD are marketing terms used to differentiate between drivelines. They don't really have any technical significance. The acronym AWD was derived to separate constant 4WD vehicles (mainly soft roaders) from hard core off road 4WD vehicles, and it's all stemmed from there. Let's not get our knickers in a knot because of some marketing jargon. Just like Toyota claims to own the rights to "quad cam", despite 4 camshaft engines being around for many decades before Toyota even contemplated copying the idea. It's all a bunch of wank the marketing boffins force upon us to try and sell more cars.

Edit: Nevermind.

What's wrong with the 4 doors? Personaly I find them much better proportioned than the hideous 2 door. OK - with all the GTR guff the 2 doors look OK, but the 4 door gets my vote every time. They look good in flares too

Sold You snooze you lose

Well, he said that if he doesn't offload it, it;s going to the wreckers. That should give you a clue that it's not going to cost the earth. Besides, the guy selling it isn't in the business of trying to make millions on selling 240K's now that they have found new popularity. I think he just wants the shed space so he can finish building his new rally car.

Here's a cheapie I found. Hurry or you'll miss out

What people seem to have forgotten is that the 240K was never anything special. Yes, as a new car they were technically better than a Falcon or Kingswood, just in the same way that a Mistubishi 380 or Aurion is better than a Falcadore (judging by the 100 or so hire cars I've driven in the last 3 years). They never had the brand loyalty that Holden and ford do, so when they started to get a bit tired, owners sent them to the scrap heap, or just abandoned them on the side of he road. During high school and uni, I recall at least 6 of my mates owning 240K's (about 8-9 cars in total) and they were nothing more than a cheap mode of transporrt until they could afford something better. Those of us who were die hard Datsun heads dreamed of a 1600 SSS or 240Z. Not a 240K, or 180B and certainly not a 200B or bluebird. Now that old school cars are so cool, and Skylines are so popular thanks to the R32 GTR and the whole drift culture thing, these 240K's have become very sought after. Unfortunately most have been crushed and turned into Daewoos, as they didn't have enough mid life appeal to save them from the wrecking yards. Whether it's right or wrong, that's the harsh reality.

Hehe I was a 240K guy for a brief period (couple of years, actually) but the 240K had one of those dirty, alloy V8's under the bonnet, so no L6 lovin there, I'm afraid. My true Datsun years (1988 - 2000) were mainly 1600's and 180B's Nowdays my toy car is a rotary

I've only played with L4's but they all have a bracket bolted to the block (I even made a custom one for a 110A alternator I fitted to my rally car a decade or so ago). I would have guessed that the L6 was the same setup. I have a few of the lower brackets lying around in a parts box somewhere - unless of course I gave it all away in the free stuff thread at Ozdat over a year ago edit: I just checked my ad on Ozdat and there were 2 alternator brackets in the lot I gave away. If you look at the photo below, the lump of steel to the left of the windscreen wiper motors, that's one of the versions of the alternator mount bracket (I think there might be a couple of designs) Click here for photo

Yep, DR struts are 100mm centres. Bigger disc - not integral with hub like MR30. Price looks pretty good for them - they're getting hard to get hold of. Not sure how they compare with R31 turbo struts

2&1 FIFO roster out of Perth? unless you're pi$$ing your money up the wall, you should easily afford the Evo as well as keeping the DR. Jus be done with it and get an Evo 9

I'd say being unmolested, it will lose less value in 20 years than a modified GTR (even one of the 600hp ones that seem to be fairly cheap these days). Let's face it - much as we may love them, GTR skylines are hardly unique, are they? As for investment, you'd hardly call any car an investment. You can strike it lucky with some cars, and anyone who happened to own a mint GTR Torana, Phase 3 Falcon, etc. 5 years ago, will be sitting pretty today. That's more a function of today's economy than wise investment strategies. IMHO, something like an aussie delivered R32 will actually have something unique about it, so will relatively be a good investment as far as cars go. If you want to invest money for 20 years, then property, managed funds, Super, shares would all outstrip any automotive "investment" by an order of magnitude. Now's a pretty cheap time to buy into the share market.

I've had my 2.5 TDi pathfinder for a year and 36,000km now without a hitch. That includes belting around mine sites, towing the rally car interstate, beach and bush 4WD'ing. The only criticism is that the back shocks are a bit soft for towing - it tends to bounce a little. As for the new navaras / pathfinders being unreliable - that's utter crap. Every brand has the odd dud - that's what warranty is for. just coz you might see one in a workshop doesn't mean they are all cops. Those who say not to tow with a manual probably don't know how to drive. In the long term, clutch wear can be a problem if you're doing hill starts all day with 2 tonnes on the back, but I've never worn out a clutch in any of my towing vehicles, and they've all been manual. The Tdi has heaps of power for towing and general driving. It needs a few revs to keep up with traffic at the lights (if that's important to you) but once on the boil, it has no trouble keeping up or overtaking. I've also heard good things about the Mazda BT50 and the new Mitsubishi TD's.

What's it need for rego? When was it imporetd? Is all the relevant paperwork with it? Has it evern been complied, or was it brought in as a 15 year old import? I know someone looking for one of these. I'm seeing him tomorrow, and will pass it on. (He rebuilt one of the ex Gibson R30's a couple of years ago and is itching to get one of his own now)

The speedo in my GTS2 was pretty much spot on - within 2km/h anyway (running 225/50R16 tyres) If your speedo isn't working, and the reverse lights are also not working, then check your fuses. They both share the same fuse. I found this out AFTER shelling out for a new speedo drive unit. Rear central locking and air con - could be a number of things. 19 year old car and all. Diff noisy? that's what stereos are for. Leaking steering rack? Yeh, put in a recon replacement. It will sharpen up the steering to where it should be. What number GTS is yours?

If you've dented your sump and have lost oil pressure, then this can be a VERY BAD thing. It means that the oil pump suction line is partially blocked, and can starve your engine of oil. Take the sump off and check that the oil pickup screen isn't damaged. Panel beat the sump and refit with new gasket. all should be sweet. If you're only loising a little oil pressure it shouldn't cause too much damage in the short term. However, over time, even a small loss can be catastrophic. Best to be safe!!

You pay shipping, buyer's fee in Japan, plus import duty and GST on the FOB price. You can definitely save money by buying and importing your own car, but if anything goes wrong, then you're in a whole lot of trouble (potentially). Many people look at the importer's fee as buying peace of mind. It cost me about $2k on top of what I could potentially have bought my R32 skyline for 7 years ago. Well worth the money in my opinion. If you need to save every last $$ then have a go for yourself, but be aware that you may have a lot of leg work to do - very daunting for a first timer. If you have to pay a reputable importer a couple of grand to get you the car you want, then I reckon it;s money well spent.

I know on the C110 you can use the seal out of a Mitsubishi Scorpion - same profile apparently (slightly different length). Don't know whether this translates to the C210 tho.

Thanks Matty - top info Aah now I remember - the Hills Hoist struts I remember reading about them. I think that my suspension dude has some suitable tube left over from when he was contemplating a bid to supply the formula suspension for some series or another. (can't remember which it was - V8 holdens and / or fords IIRC)

Hey, Matty. What was the reason for going to the stagea calipers and bigger discs? did the standard DR30 gear suck that badly, or was it just marginal with your power output? I'm considering a stud pattern change to the RX (to suit a proposed S3 rear end) and have access to a pair of DR30 front struts pretty cheap. If the brakes are pretty ordinary (running about 140RWHP atm) then might reconsider whether there's any benefit (running Volvo 4 spots at the front and they work ok) Also, to fit the Bilsteins, I assume you have grafted new tubes tot he struts. Did you use the Commodore tubes, or have you used something custom? I gather the coilover hardware is bigger than the 2" sleeves that go over Datsun struts. Cheers

Yeh I've heard of the Nicasil process (First came across it on a mate's go kart engine in 1984, so been around for a while). Didn't know that they applied using the plasma process though. I've only dealt with plasma welding / spraying of ferritic material to build up worn components. I guess they might be using something similar to the nicasil, but it astounds me that the engine would need a rebuild after only 100,000km with this stuff.

Sounds like someone has their facts mixed up. Plasma build up is a process used for building up damaged shafts / bores etc. We use it a lot in rebuilding big gearboxes (6"-20" diameter shafts). The ONLY reason it's used is because it minimises the heat build up during the repair process, and gives a fairly hard surface finish. Note that it's only used in the repair process. The original manufacture relies on good old machining / surface treatment (induction harden / case carburising etc.). These shafts sell for upwards of a million bucks each. If plasma welding was so good, they'd use it when they built the things new. Maybe the bores have some coating to reduce friction (because anything that improves hardness would give a better than 100,000km life, so I doubt it would be to improve hardness), but I doubt it's the typical plasma build up process.