warps

Gold!! Just a quick comment about the driveshaft. In this design, the driveshaft will see maximum RPM every time you redline the engine, meaning it will see a lot of cycles at maximum load (fatigue and all that). In a "conventional" driveshaft design, the driveshaft will only spin at redline speeds when the car is travelling at approx 200km/h+ (this varies hugely with diff ratio, obviously). Conversely, a conventional driveshaft will see a lot more torque transmitted through it, as the engine torque is multiplied through the gearbox, whereas the new GTR driveshaft will only ever see the max engine torque (as well as impact loading under clutch dump situations etc.) Bottom line? Probably nothing to worry about, as the Nissan Engineers would have covered it. If the shaft speeds became an issue, it's nothing to replace the single piece driveshaft with a 2 piece unit. Problem then goes away.

Well, moving a 50kg lump of a gearbox to the rear will change the weight distribution by around 3-4 % points each way (eg take it from 58:42 to about 55:45). Also, the new engine is all alloy, compared to the RB26 lump which was reknowned for being one seriously heavy piece of hardware. I didn't say that GTR's aren't nose heavy. I'm just staggered that they achieved such poor weight distribution despite all their efforts to move weight to the back.

That has to be a typo. Even the average FWD Avagnary has a better weight distriution than that. I'm thinking more like 48:52. Surely the Nissan engineers couldn't get the weight distribution so horribly wrong. It would handle worse than a 265 Centura.

Oh yes, it's a car alright. All that from only 2.6 litres, without a turbo in sight either. Ugly? Mmmm riiiight. That's the most important thing afterall, isn't it? The ultimate track day weapon, bar none. not much good for taking the kids to school, or doing the shopping though. An R35 GTR would be fine for those duties.

Pfft 7:38. Slooow! How's sound, straight off the showroom floor? Probably cheaper than a GTR as well.

There were a few 15" factory rims as stated. The Aussie GTS skylines came out with 16x7 rims, and can be bought from Nissan, but last time I priced them they were about $400 a wheel (10 years ago now) Have you thought about aftermarket? There are a few 4x114.3 stud pattern rims out there, so shop around. A friend had a set of the 15" touring car style rims many years ago, but I don't know where he got them, or what he did with them. Not sure what size the R32 /R33 4 stud rims were, but that could be another option.

More lilely your wiring is the culprit. After 25 odd years of neglect, most wiring systems are starting to get past their use by date. i've rewired plenty of factory headlight assemblies with relays and heavier wiring, and this usually bring sthe lights back to their former glory. After that, you can start playing around with higher wattage bulbs and new reflectors.

Well, if you'd bothered to mention it was white smoke in the first place.......... Also, confucious say, "problem that go away by self, also come back by self" I've spent the last 20 years in maintenance, and never a truer word said.

That does't sound like a crook coil pack. If it was, there would be no difference between having the injector plugged in or not. Sounds like the injector is being held open the whole time. Try to get a dwell meter or CRO to check the injector pulsing on that injector. Sounds like it's holding that injector open the whole time.

Even more front bias than the FWD cars? (which were spinning off the track too)

Yet when the going gets slippery, the Subaru system is far better than the Nissan system because it delivers torque to the wheel as soon as any slip ocurs, not when the compueter decides that a predetermined set of parameters has been met. I've personally experienced this on track days where the GTR's kept falling off the track backwards (along with every other 2WD car out there) and the Subys just kept going round and round. If there's no slip, then it doesn't matter a toss what wheels are driving. I'm just saying that the Subaru system copes with loss of traction better than the artificial environment created by the Nissan system I know we can argue the merits of each all day, and I gather we'll never agree on the matter, so I'm more than happy to agree to disagree. Besides, in this case the biggest factor affecting stability for towing is the weight of the towing vehicle, which is where the Stag has a 150-ish kg advantage. I'm hopefully picking up a new tdi pathfinder very soon, so the Forry will become the family taxi and the Pathfinder will be my toy. Interesting about your comments on the Falcon tow car. I had an XG (EL) XR6 ute before the Magna, which I thought was OK until I tried the Magna. The Ute used to get bogged in the grass behind my house as well. I think only a 4Wd would have gotten me out of that one though.

Well, firstly, the XT is full time AWD, not a Front driver driving the rear wheels on occasion. Far better for towing than any other setup - even the Nissan ATESSA system. Secondly, nothing wrong with front drive vehicles for towing (WRT stability). Some traction problems and long term structural integrity issues can be a concern, but one of the best tow vehicles I've used was a TH Magna. i wouldn't believe it either if I hadn't experienced it myself. my criticism of the Forester is as much the blame of the trailer (very short drawbar, and some gemetry issues in the axle design) as the Forester itself. I've never towed another heavy trailer with the Forry, nor have I towed the car trailer behind another vehicle, so can't comment for sure. The self levelling rear suspension also makes it hard to gauge the weight on the towball, which as you'd know has a huge effect on the towing stability. I'm still fine tuning that aspect of it. Looking again at the ADR's, my interpretation is that the ATM is the total mass of the trailer, ie unhitch it on a weighbridge and it's the total weight of the combo. The GTM is the load that the trailer exerts on the ground, ie the total mass less the towball vertical load (often about 100-200kg). In that case, a 600kg trailer with a 1500kg car on it still qualifies as GTM under 2 tonnes, if the drawbar load is 150kg (about what it should be) Anyone comment on this?

Yeh, wasn't trying to be smart (although I admit did come across that way). just that one you go over 2 tonnes, the rules change. You must have brakes on all 4 trailer wheels, and a breakaway system fitted (according to federal legislation). Most people don't know (or care) about this (including cops) until you try to make a claim and then the insurance comapny will drop you like a hot potato. Pretty sad really, considering many hire trailers can weigh up to 800+kg. doesn't leave much room for a car I tow my rally car with a Forester XT (manufacturer rated at 1800kg) and it never feels happy about it. Power is not a problem - I can overtake comfortably - even uphill, just the whole combo moves the Forrie around a bit much for my liking. As far as towing capacity goes, I'm pretty sure that the laws state that the car's towing capacity is the greater of its TARE weight, or manufacturer's official rating. In the absence of a rating (does the Stagea have one) you're limited to towing the same weight as an unladen Stagea. that may vary state to state though.

Oooo - just hope to god you never prang it. Good luck getting an insurance company to ever pay up. How's the breakaway system set up on the trailer, just out of interest?

You have PM. Dibs on the struts

Is this the one that was rebuilt at Labrador a couple of years ago? (the 15 car I think) I used to wander over and drool over it as it was being built (was only a few doors down from my work). The guy who built the car just built me a set of coilovers for the rally car, and will soon be making adjustable strut tops and lower control arms for me. He does some very nice machining work.

Just remember that one day you might get bored of running around a race track trying to beat your own lap record, and actually want to compete in a race series. Consider the rules, regs and classes available to you. (I know you don't want to break lap records, but you don't want to finish dead last in your category either). Most engine conversions will mean you have to run in sports sedans. That said, pesonally I'd keep it L, you can get heaps of cheap power out of an NA L6, (better bang for buck than an RB conversion if you know who to talk to). You don't need a turbo to go fast. Also, I wouldn't touch anything else until I had a decent roll cage, race seat and harness in there. Then I'd get the brakes sorted out (can start with upgraded pads on standard brakes) and then handling. All of the above items will give you a big improvement over stock, and will let yuou learn how to drive the thing. You can get reasonable stopping power from Landcruiser brake calipers (bolt on) and reasonable discs (something like Honda Legend, or some Peugeots). Set up, that brake upgrade should only cost a few hundred $$. No need to go for bling 300mm discs with the alloy 4 spots. Yes, they're good but will cost you much more. Once you've got something that stops and handles, and won't kill you if you have an off, then you can start looking at increasing power.

How's This then. If yours look like the ones in the pic (ie are hose tail) then they will fit. Just need to confirm whether they're high or low impedance.

Yes. Only after the R30 did they change offsets, but stud pattern is still the same all the way until R32

No, ghost rider, I wasn't talking to you. Chill, dude

I assume you will be doing the necessary brake, steering and suspension upgrades first? If it's a drag only car, then knock yourself out. Whack a twin turbo v8 in there and have fun running 11 second quarters. If you want a sleeper to scare other guys at track days, then a healthy suspension upgrade will make you a lot faster around a track than the same $$ spent on a balltearer engine. (learing to drive properely will be an ever better way to go fast) If you want to win traffic light races, then buy yourself a PS2 and a copy of GT4. The last thing we need is another "budget" street warrior death trap out there in the hands of an inexperienced driver. Don't mean to sound harsh (well, actually, yes, I do) but I've seen too many guys nearly kill themselves in 20-30 year old cars with massive engine upgrades, and standard everything else.

You have PM

Australian delivered C110's all had IRS - almost identical to the 510 / 610, except for the location of the spring and shock. All Australian delivered ones also had the L24 factory fitted. i don't know how hard it is to convert this one to IRS and L power. (I assume the car - and you - are in Japan). If you're in Australia, then don't waste your time on Japanese auctions and just buy a local one. Cheers

Yes, replace the muffler with something decent flowing such as the Lukey LR2779. This is a straight through 2.5", which is still reasonably quiet (as long as you have resonators). You can then put a 2" tailpipe on the end, and not lose a hell of a lot of flow. Remember, by the time the gases reach the tailpipe, they have cooled a lot, and hence contracted. I'd be surprised if this loses you any power at all. Then you can sell the cannon to some riceboy on Ebay, and have enough to pay for the Lukey.

Heh Heh :kewl: Just wanted to see how much these Celica boxes can really handle. Don't worry - it's only the baby 3.5 getting the turbos, with a leisurely 8.13:1 compression. Should be good for about 10PSI. What it lacks in finesse, it should make up for in brute force.