coupe72001

This week I blew the head on my car. Not doing anything dumb, just cruising along. The block/head was honed and a new head gasket fitted less than 2 years ago. I thought I would make a quick list of things that I have blown up or had to repair or replace just driving around in the last two years. No races, drifting or drags, just one short-lived but spectacularly destructive burnout... in the wet... on grass. Here goes: Blown head, exploded r180 LSD, exploded 240k 5spd, all old rubbery bits, shocks and springs, sad alternator, electronic ignition/distributor, fouled 260z carbs, rebuilt SU carbs, deceased headlight combination switch, suicidal harmonic balancer, nasty coil, condensor, welsh plugs, one stolen stereo speakers with related damaged interior and door locks and door, one malfunctioning stereo, one more malfunctioning stereo, dead battery, cracked extractors, extractor gasket (2), crunchy brakes on rear, broken side mirror, leaky radiator filler neck, damaged rear bumper and rear quarter from P plater, damaged rear bumper from ex, bent front bumper from me in a car park... assorted rust holes! That's all I can think of right now. Does that seem normal to you? Has anyone else had similar woes? Anyway, I feel a lot better now for getting that off my chest. When I get it fixed I'm thinking about racing it. There's nothing left to go wrong. D

There are plenty of new carpets available for the 240k on ebay etc, but none for the C210. Is the floorpan (floorplan?) the basically the same for both models? It two pieces and you have to cut your own holes anyway, so it doesnt need to be a perfect match... Thanks!

Hi, I want these babies so badly... er... they are skyline c210 mirrors that didn't come on the Australian model if you cant be bothered with the link. http://page17.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v18995925 ...but Im in Australia, I dont speak Japanese, and dead stock 70's don't ship internationally. If anyone can negotiate payment/shipping I'd be massively appreciative - and would sling a few extra yen your way - or post you some vegemite, or whatever else you're homesick for. Anyway, you can get me here or at [email protected] thanks, Drew

Thanks that's extremely helpful. Do you know off-hand if the R30 diffs have the same/or will accept the C210 half-shafts?

The problem with this is that the Subarus use a different diff centre. The Datsun/Nissan halfshafts don't fit. You would need to have someone make up some custom/hybrid halfshafts that use Subaru splines for the diff and use the Nissan parts that bolt to the companion flanges (wheel end). Not a cheap exercise. I wish I had read this a week ago before I bid on a Subi diff centre on ebay... bummer.

Thanks so much for the replies. I sourced a Nismo clutch-type LSD carrier (not the complete diff) slightly used, and cheap enough, from the states to suit an R180. I am crossing my fingers that the damn thing bolts up, as I want to retain my 4.875:1 ratio so much. I have a friend in Japan on the hunt for complete r180 and r200 LSD's because they seem to be such a bastard to get here. I too am curious if anyone has tried the old mix-and-match with short-nose centres into long-nose diffs. Surely that is the cheapest way to convert your r180 open-wheeler to LSD...

Cheaper replacement LSD carrier from the states... http://www.speedstash.com/phantomgrip/phan..._slip_conv.html Comes with a lifetime warranty, but according to my local Dat Rally place the factory stuff is way stronger! Does anyone know how interchangeable the LSD carriers are. For example I can easily get sr20det LSD's, but will they transplant into an R180 housing? Best quote in Australia so far is $700 for a second-hand L200 long nose LSD.

Thanks for the offer, but Ive got open spinners galore! I miss my LSD so bad though - my car accelerates about half as quickly now... er better fuel economy on the highway though... Research has found that the diff is made by Fuji heavy industries - who supply diffs for Datsun, Nissan, Subaru, Mazda... god knows who else. Some are LSD and some aren't and there are a mind-popping number of ratios available. Ill post some more trivia about R180s soon. Anyone else can feel free to join in. D

Further investigation reveals that I DO need a new diff centre - the plate that I busted is connected to the guts of the LSD. Have been sniffing around on the web and found this: http://members.optushome.com.au/amaxeng/five10/diff.htm but at $1450 I think I am going to cry. If anyone knows of a less excrutiating option please let me know. Thanks Drew

The TRX's are a 15" 4 stud - there's a couple of sets on ebay now. I recently sold a set of 15's from an r30 (I think) that were also 4 stud. I cant recall coming across anything larger than that from the factory... but Im usually wrong about these things.

Im surprised that the Arab ($100 says he was Kuwaiti) bought your C210. They are obsessed with really original cars with L series engines, louvers and AM radios, but then they do burnouts in them till they pop! See You Tube for more details.

I agree with Mag. There was a very nicely restored V8 C210 in NSW that failled to get $5,000, Bullet Proof's lovely L28 C210 went on ebay for less than $3,000 and sad examples are available for less than a grand. Japanese 2000 GTs and even 240ks are going for a lot more; say $3000 to $12,000, but $30,000 is really not realistic for a C210.

I did the auto to manual swap on my C210 some time ago. There's an old post here somewhere. Alfadog did a really detailled post too. You definately do not need to change the tailshaft or diff. You need: the clutch, flywheel, gearbox, master cylinder, slave cylinder, lines, clutch pedal and spring, bolts for the flywheel, bolts for the master cylinder and bolts for the slave cylinder. It doesnt matter if you use a box from a C210, c211, 240k or 240/260Z, they are all the same length. Good luck with it! D

Having pulled apart the diff it turns out that I have shattered the plate that bolts onto the lefthand side of the crown wheel (the side without teeth obviously) inside the diff. Does anyone know if this plate the same for LSD and non-LSD models? I think it is held to the crown wheel by 5 bolts. The rest of the diff looks unharmed, so if I can save it Ill be thrilled. Its an R180 LSD 4.9:1. Thanks!

Err... In an uncharacteristic display of bravado I decided to do some burnouts in the mud at my friends country property. Fun and games for about 60 seconds, then with the front wheels at full lock I put the boot in and something went crack in the drivetrain. Pulling up in a straight line it continued to go crack-crack-crack till she came to rest. Im running a R180 LSD and a 280zx diskbrake rear-end. Im going to dig up a standard R180 diff to get me home then see what I have done to my poor LSD. Any theories? Diff centre? Axle? I read somewhere something about the inside wheel hopping when you go full-lock with a r180 but am not sure where, nor if this would cause such destruction. I recently also split my harmonic balancer causing all kinds of noisy messy strife under the bonnet, for those who enjoy keeping tabs on how many things I manage to blow up on my car. I did fit the disk brake rear end all by myself though, so as a mechanical retard Im feeling pretty good about that. D

Yeah, that was mine, sad to say... restoration costs exceeded budget, doubly so with my prone-to-self-destruction-C210 (this weeks disaster - split harmonic balancer/notched crankshaft spline...) Bummer to see it go for so little. At least it's going to a better home. D

I have passed on your details to my friend Ali. You should hear from him tonight. Good luck with the sale, and if it doesnt go ahead Ill try to pick her up for myself! D

Hi, If you are still keen to part it out Id be happy to take the lourve and the rear seat upper of your hands for the right price. The rear seat needs to be black and in great shape. Get me any time at [email protected] or on 0410 842 016 and we can sort out the postage etc. Thanks

Sorry if anyone is getting deja vu - but could you let me know the condition of the interior and confirm that it is black in color. Thanks! Drew

Oh yeah... any rusty bits? Usual suspects are the guard between wheel and door, and the base of the doors themselves. Cheers again.

I like... How good is the interior, especially the seats and the boot? It's an all black interior Im guessing from the pic. Is the front bumper damaged, or is it just a funny reflection? Finally, is there any rego left on her? Thanks! Drew

Keep your eyes peeled, there have been some cracking 2 and 3 carb setups going on ebay recently. Try to find something fresh off another car - there is a better chance the gaskets wont have turned into arnotts biscuits. If you get the chance your extractors/carbies that have already been paired as a unit. Due to the extractor manifold being a different height to the intake manifold I found it irritatingly hard to form an airtight seal with my setup.

Beauty! I'm pushing hard for the sale. Ill tell you as soon as I have some news.

Hi mate, Im very close to persuading a mate to buy your car. We are in Melbourne however... Dont s'pose you live nearby a train station. Im taking it that the car will likely have no troubles making it back to Melbourne on a permit. Also, does she come with any spares, books or bits? Drew

That is a golden nugget of information, Im almost afraid to ask how you come to know these things... Arrrgh! And to think I sold my original stock L24 on the cheap! Honestly, I have no big objections to going to a twin carb L series, even the webbers are a great period mod, but I kinda like the idea of being the only kid on my block with a warm J series engine, even if it isn't the modder's choice. Still, cant help wondering if the L series engine would marry the J series box without too much grief... where's my tape measure...