danielr34

The switch in the drivers door is working fine that is why the passenger door locks and unlocks when you turn the key, that is part of the car's factory central locking. The part that may be faulty would be the aftermarket actual central locking motor which would have been installed at time the when the aftermarket alarm was installed. This motor is contrlloed by the alarm system which locks and unlocks the drivers door, which then trips the switch in your factory central locking which we now still work, as you have explained. Common problem and easy fix none the less....

ok cool

I don't promote turbo timers sapphire and never have but 99% of my customers have a turbo timer or have intentions of getting a turbo timer, which won't work with some of my alarm systems as mentioned by Thelen. So as for me to eliminate the security risk of external turbo timers it is safer to have a turbo timer built into the alarm software. BTW You can shut the engine down instantly with any of my alarms be it Autowatch or Mongoose in the event of getting pulled over by the Police in which case they would not find a turbo timer under the dash, because I removed it to fit the Alarm/turbo timer. I just think your trying to get a little too much into the nitty gritty of this thread. At the end of the day the initial questions were answered in a couple of posts end rant

Most Australian Standards Upgrade alarms will integrate into the existing central locking.

Yeah speak to Chris mate. Oh, and yes thank you sapphire, for that information.....as if we didn't know, that so I suppose we are going to have to arrest at least 5 million people here in Australia for breaking the law.

The Autowatch 446rli Premium would best suit your Skyline with its built in turbo timer feature. As for Installers...what state are you in?

The Viper does not meet the Australian Standards requirements, which stipulates the following: All black wiring, minimum of 2 onboard immobiliser circuits (recommend 3), passive immobilisation after engine is turned off, code hopping remote controls and the immobiliser should not be able to be bypassed by just removing the fuse. All Australian Standards Immobiliser's and Alarm's need to have passed stringent testing and certificates are issued for each product. Insurance companies may want to see proof that you have an Australian Standards immobiliser ie Invoice or Receipt from where you buy it, which they can check with a list they should have of all approved immobilisers. There are a large range of Australian Standards Alarms and immobiliser's around that you can choose from but none of them will have the remote start feature, so you will need to choose between Security and Convenience. Have fun...

Here is an idea, throw it as far as you can and see if it comes back.

sounds like the whole installation needs a little tinkering.

I agree with Chris on this one, window closer modules in doors are done by lazy installers. Do your red's stay on while cranking? Can you here the fuel pump prime? Is your starter solonoid sticky? Can you here the starter relay clicking? Check all fuses and fusable links.

I would come up to Newcastle just for the pleasure of removing the Brant system and setting it on fire... or wait they usually do that on their own

Why would you want to cut the constant 12V wire anyway?

I have yet to see an R34 with a factory immobiliser, if there is one it was probably retrofitted at dealership in Japan. If you are looking for an Insurance approved immobiliser then this will probably won't be accepted by insurance company, but you wont know this until after your car is stolen. The V35's have a factory immobiliser which is the same sytem found in Aussie Spec Nissan's such as the 350Z but the ADR still does not accept these and will not compliance a vehicle for that reason (in NSW at least).

Sounds like you have drained your battery while you were working on your car, the starter motor is struggling for current. Get the jumper leads out mate and you should be right. if that doesn't work just throw 2 asprin in the radiator and walk away...lol (joke)

Dynamat Extreme Boot kit RRP $199

Give me a call, Auto Electricians will charge you by the hour, I won't and if your in Sydney most of the auto electrians will probably ring me and ask for help. lol

Hi, its not just about black wires, it also has to have a minimum of 2 built in immobiliser circuits and passive arming immobilisers, some insurers stipulate 3 immobiliser sircuits, the remotes need to be code hopping and the actual alarm module needs to have been put through the Australian Standards Testing which costs the alarm manufacturer about $18000 to get the product tested. I have not know of any Viper alarm or any Directed Electronics brands to be Australian Standards. Cheers

Is this a Viper alarm by any chance?

To me it still sounds like a battery issue, even if a battery shows 12V on a multimeter doesn't mean it is a good battery, does it give you the most problems in the morning? because that is when batteries are at their lowest, try to jump start the car off another car to see how it goes. If the problem is still there, I would be looking at the starter circuit and would suspect excessive current draw somewhere there. Sometimes starter motor solonoids get sticky and don't always throw (causing a clicking noise). Before anything else I would be looking at the battery. The average battery should be change every 2 - 3 years and the number one cause for car starting problems is battery power. What size is the battery? check the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) on the label. The higher the better. Check the battery voltage with engine off, a good battery should read about 13.8V and watch the multimeter while starting the car to see what it drops down to. As for the alarm it sounds like it is struggling to get power, now alarms either have power or they don't, if it is struggling to lock the doors then this leads me back to battery power or lack of power. It wont be a bad investment if you bought a new battery because this will benefit all electrical components in you car from ecu to sound system (especially if running subwoofer/s). Based on what you have said these are my thoughts from my experience.

Call me if you want to save time, there are too many questions for me too ask. 0430534248

As for the boot release the R34's have mechanical boot release (cable driven) unless you paid extra and had a boot release solonoid fitted in the rear, then you don't have boot release.

Read the manual. You have to turn on the turbo timer feature, I think you need to press the remote while ignition is on or something, I have only done a couple of the new ones and I'm used to the Autowatch version.

call me, I'll try help you out over the phone 0430534248

call me...

lol... Sounds to me like you will need 40,000gigawatts of electricity to run this alarm (the kind of power you get from a lightning strike), then all you have to do is get the car to 80m/hr but not sure what your going to do about the flux capacitor, I checked on ebay and can't find any, they must of sold out. lmao