blind_elk

Would help if you told us which particular model? I know it can't be a R32, because they use a push-button to activate the washer. It could be a R30, because I know they use a pull on the lever that activates the wiper to activate the washer. In the R30, it's tucked under the LH engine bay skirt, outboard of the air cleaner / meter. Your (idiot) repairer (probably the apprentice, actually) probably forgot to reconnect the wires to the motor.

Any decent mechanic should know about the CO test on the cooling system. I would build an undertray that spans the front bar to the engine X-member. I had one on my Z years ago, and it was quite efficient at helping the radiator cool the engine. I was going to do the same for my R32 after I put a thermo on it. I could get the thermo to turn on even at highway cruise conditions in low 20s (deg C). But I put the factory fan back on instead. Have I mentioned a series of articles at www.autospeed.com on siting undertrays and bonnet vents. I think you really need to be creating a low pressure region behind the radiator, so that air has to pass thru the radiator and cool the engine.

For Yokis, go to Traction Tyres in Rowville - they are the distributors for Yokohama. Don't know about the interest-free bit, though.

Thanks for the support, Roy.

If you are just "topping up", then you can just use water. You can use mains supply if it's OK (don't know what Wagga's water supply is like, quality-wise, but Sydney and Melbourne is nearly as good as distilled water). Maybe tank water if you can get it would be the best. Top-up straight into the radiator. Half fill the overflow bottle with plain water.

Calder? Heathcote Park? There are off-street drag strips available.

By setting the base timing on the CAS, you are simply changing the point at which the CAS signals the ECU that it should start thinking about initiating a spark event. All the ECU knows is that it has a table of values that tell it to delay 'x' millisecs after it gets the trigger signal before firing the spark. If it gets the signal 3 crank deg earlier, then it will fire the spark 3 crank deg earlier.

No, it's actually pulling air that the AFM doesn't know about, causing leaning out of the mixture. Generally when cold, the engine needs to run richer - that's what a choke does in a carburettored engine.

I think it's actually open, and then closes. Current is supplied to a bi-metallic strip that causes a "door" to gradually close off. /edit: had a look at one on a spare manifold, it's normally closed, and will open when current is applied, just like a choke on a carburettor.

Yes, but were you putting out 200+ rwkw at the time? :devfu:

If you "have no idea what", then why can't it be a fuel mixture problem? You don't tune "cold start" fuelling on a dyno. It appears to be a cold start fuelling problem.Is the boost gauge supposed to read anything less than 0. If not, then it will always read 0 at idle - boost doesn't generally happen until at least 2000 rpm, and then only when the car is being motivated. (It's possible to actually rev the engine to red line in neutral, and get no boost.) If it is supposed to read something less than 0, then it could be some sort of air leak, but I expect that an air leak that produced no vacuum in the manifold would prevent the engine from running at all. It could be the cold start valve not opening up when cold. It's located under the throttle body on RB20DETs, and under the inlet manifold on RB25DETs. Duncan, riceline, Thanks for the translation (oh, and it's "apostrophe")

Not sure of the year, but it's not a NEO engine.

You can get a bit of leeway on the duty cycle by increasing the fuel pressure behind the injector, up to around 4 bar (58psi). Use something like a Malpasssi adjustable FPR to achieve this. The flow , therefore hp, will be modified by SQRT(New Pressure / Current Pressure)

There are a whole bunch of different things you can do to alter the power delivery. The Nissan Group A GT-Rs used to run about a 9.2 C/R and 1.8 bar boost, and delivered something in the order of 450hp. The Sierras probably delivered the same level of power, but did it by running C/R of 6, and 3bar boost (which explains why they were such dogs off-boost, and diabolical in the wet when the power suddenly cut in).

Would I do something like that to you? Doesn't get me a surname. Would like to put a bit more than "Matt from SAU" under the photo.

In discussions such as this, "compression" and "compression ratio" are the same thing.The hole in the head gasket effectively becomes an extension of the combustion chamber. So, the thicker the head gasket, the larger the combustion chamber volume. And since C/R = (cylinder volume + combustion chamber ) / combustion chamber then a larger combustion chamber (for a given cylinder volume) LOWERS the C/R. The reason for running the thick head gaskets is to reduce the C/R where a high boost level is being run. This brings into play the difference between "static C/R" and "Dynamic C/R". "Static C/R" is what you measure with a compression meter. It is basically the measure described above. "Dynamic C/R" is a result of ramming additional air (compressed by the turbo) into the cylinder. Hope I haven't got too technical for you.

Who is the owner of the Black R34, it has bonnet pins and a "Nismo" sticker on the front left corner of the bonnet? NDSOC want to stick a photo of you / your car in our next mag.

Robin - bugger. And after all that running around yesterday to get it all OK. FN bureaucrats! Hope you gave them a massive serve. ant95GTR (and others), it's actually to do with flexing at the joints. If you get a ADR-compliant hose, I think they have a teflon outer, only a couple of cm long, to move the flex point away from the joint. Check out latest Zoom for an article on brakes in general, but also covers ADR-compliant braided hoses.

Glad to be of assistance.

Well? Do you have a registered car?

It's always possible the the (R32) GT-R will become a collectable car in the future. More so if it was Oz-delivered, since it's one of only 100 (?).

Try Speed Technology in Mitcham (03 98735400) for the replacement fitting. The Malpassi has 2 IN and one OUT. It replaces the unit sitting on the manifold. One of the INs can be used to accept a pressure gauge, otherwise simply plug it off. You would normally mount it on the RH strut tower, I guess. I don't really know the R33 that well, but I think Cameron is referring to the boost controller. To get the fuel rail out, you need to remove the throttle body, amongst other things. As with anything on a Nissan, you basically have to remove anything that appears to be getting in the way.

AFAIK, the GT-R doesn't (shouldn't, IMO) come with an auto trans. There is an option, though - the Stagea wagon. They are an AWD wagon and come with a RB25DET (sometimes RB26DETT), and the majority come with an auto. (When I first saw one, I thought it was a Volvo!) I have one (just auto trans, not whole Stagea) if you are interested.

Maybe I should hire them out for RWCs

Not offline! PM'd you.