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rb20-calais

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Everything posted by rb20-calais

  1. all i know is that when i used optimax my plugs fouled 3 times in 3 weeks, the workshop said that they had many cars come in with the same problem and they all used optimax, they said use bp and it wont happen. in all honesty i was very skeptical but it has been 3 weeks and the car is going strong on the same set of plugs, thats all i have to say. Evan
  2. thanks for the replies. in the guide it has a section about the sensitivity. Automatically set to 10. Adjustments can be between 0-99. Sensitivity too low - Achieve more boost in high gears - Takes longer to achieve boost set point - Boost drops off at higher RPM Sensitivity correct - Boost rises quickly and is steady Sensitivity too high - Boost pressure fluctuates, cycles or is not smooth - Boost pressure overshoots set point - rises too fast 51jay, Good idea I might have to look in to that, thanks. Jimbo, I guess if thats what it says I will ring them. Sydneykid, yeh trying that, I need more skills. Thanks guys If anyone does know how else to do it please reply. I will ring turbosmart and see what they say and update the thread. Evan
  3. Guys, My e-boost is set now so that when i run SP3 (highest boost setting 17psi) the car reaches it in every gear. First gear wheelspins around 4000rpm and I need to change gears and dont have full boost in second which makes the car a lot slower. I would love to run 12-14psi in 1st gear and then 17psi in the other gears. Is this possible with the e-boost? The instruction guide is useless to me. Evan
  4. i know for a fact ca18 and rb20 shifters are interchangeable, odds are they all are so if they fit a sr20 they will fit an rb20. i think this is correct? Evan
  5. I am also interested, pm me if you go ahead Adrian. Evan
  6. Jus Jap definately know how to treat customers I am most impressed. I bought my rb20 setup (everything) off them and they were great and the engine was and still is running like a dream. I go there to get my oil and when I need bits and pieces, I have had to get light globes, oil drain for rb20 turbo, etc and when I ask the price they say dont worry about it your a good customer, even Garry is there to help with mechanical advice. I reccomend them to anyone! Evan
  7. my gearbox whines visciously and drops a lot of oil.... does that mean i gotta keep using the stock shifter. And also anyone using an rb20 box in a vl get a different shifter, i still have the rb20 one and i had to turn it around as the shifter hits the handbrake in 2nd gear. Turned around it has a HUGE throw in to 1,3,5 and a minute one in to 2,4,R ... dodgy ! Evan
  8. adapter plates are under $100 usually and that will do the trick, however they can crack.
  9. I got my clutch kit from Just Jap in Sydney. $280 for the kit, it is a PBR Heavy Duty Seems to be coping with 200rwkw ok. Evan
  10. (sorry for hijack) Chris, Did my turbo have a restrictor? Evan BTW. I LIKE IT!
  11. well, i have 199.6rwkw in a VL with a minispool which is lighter than a skyline, you must have bald tyres because when i plant it rolling in second there aint no sideways action, unless i employ the services of "Mr Gearbox Destroyer" odds are you could have 203rwkw but... you might be running like 13:1 a/f which isnt good and will be causing the ping. my advice, take it to a place that will let you drive away with a car that doesnt ping, you never know maybe they wouldnt mind doing a rebuild for you? Evan
  12. ok i think i am going to come. what time should i arrive? 9am? Evan
  13. if you take the vacum hose off the fuel pres. reg. it will lean it out and raise your idle 3-500rpm, well, it did for me. Evan
  14. if i was you i would ring around some performance shops and see what they say. maybe its time for an aftermarket ecu
  15. holy shit! thats an awesome time for 258rwkw, what tyres/wheels, etc were you using? Evan
  16. when running more boost the plugs definately need to be regapped in my experience, however i have heard it is hard to regap iridiums without breaking the tip. I wouldnt use them as they are expensive and if the plugs arnt right it is a costly excercise to change, perfect for a stock car if you want them to last 100,000km, but if you start fiddling they are a waste of time and money in my opinion. Evan
  17. got new injector missfire is badass still, going to workshop tomorrow morning. Evan
  18. Went to the injector place today and they tested the injector, it was f**ked. It was leaking between the plastic and metal, new GTR injector $100 from just jap and $20 for flow and clean, i hope it all goes well. Report back later, Evan
  19. thanks Chris, I will ring them in the morning and see what they say, it's just a pain in the behind. What do you reckon about the injector plugs, ala dodgy eh? Evan
  20. I am getting a bit pissed off with a few teething problems I am having that I shouldnt be having. I had a missfire the other day so I went to the place who did my car and gave them the 'WTF?' they played with injector plugs and it was fixed "oh yeh we had no clips to hold your plugs to your injectors you will have to get some" ... that didnt impress me because what if at full boost an injector plug gets loose? there goes my engine.... err WTF? Now I was driving home last night and I got a missfire again, I pulled over and fiddled with the plugs and noticed under revs that a mist (looked like steam but i guess its fuel?) was coming from between the front injector and the block and there was some liquid there, it stunk of petrol. When I first sent the car to the workshop I had put the plugs in (GTR injectors, RB20) but I didnt bed them in properly so they leaked and had to be redone, the workshop also told me while tuning an injector leaked and had to be redone again. NB. Redone = put back in with new o-ring. I cant drive the car to the workshop as I am scared it will catch on fire. My questions are: 1) The mist that looks like steam coming out of the injector would be fuel or steam ? 2) Anyone know the part number of the orings or if they are the same as RB30 ones so i can get some tomorrow. 3) will i need to replace all the o-rings or just one injector. 3) hints on the best way to replace and install the new oring(s) Any other advice is welcomed. Thanks in advance, Evan
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