rev210

Timmy G, got the whiteline kit have you? If not it doesn't matter how good the rear tyres are.

Chris32, The key to 'making my car quicker again by replacing the stock intercooler' is to replace the stock cooler with one that flows a maximum of about 300HP (motor) at the same time ensuring that the new pipework is short. I'm sure I'd get another 2 tenths with the perfect setup intercooler but, at a cost of $1600+? Thats not good value for money (I have done less than $2k worth to get where I am). You will never notice 'lag' basically because the turbo comes on boost at 'x' RPM. However the time taken to achieve 'x' rpm is a factor your dyno does not measure and the 1/4mile does.

sydneykid, Yeah I've heard that about the atmo BOV. The cooling of piston crowns etc. You can always unplug the hose on the stock unit and plug the hole on the intake pipe, if driving on the circuit. That way you can save more money and convert back for the street duties. Do you reckon it's better to tune that richness in with a programable ecu on purpose than to have a 'let the chips fall' sort of effect with a stock ecu? I think you can use the stockie to do both at any case and be pleased with the result. You could do up a quick threaded plug for the intake pipe and make a screw on trumpet for the stokie as well. That way when you a on a 'poser' cruise you can bolt the kit on and when you actually want performance you can plug it back in.

ed, the 13b turbo injectors just need a fuel rail made. That shouldn't set you back more than $200.

If you have a bad turbo you usually know about it when the thing is full throttle as opposed to losing midrange and low end power. Is the problem only when boost is present or does it do it when cruising at higher rpms and light throttle? If it does this on cruise then its not a turbo. Turbo bearing failure produces noise, if all other avenues are blank then just pop the turbo's off and have a look. Don't just assume its broken.

what mods do you have?

Chris32, I think you are missing the point. No one has said the stock coolers are fantastic. They are 'just adequate' for a stock turbo. You could produce a better one for a front mount but, most people don't size them right (always bigger is better mentality). In additon to this the rather steep cost of a front mount vs the actual 'real world performance' leaves alot to be desired on a street/strip based car. I doubt anyone gets 5 min on full boost on the street and certainly not on the drag strip, if your talking about circuit racing no one is arguing with you. There is more to life than dyno power readouts. As I said before the peak power figures are only part of the equation. The larger volume of an aftermarket intercooler reduces 'response' even though it allows more airflow at the top end. I'd like to put my money where my mouth is at this stage and say if you can find a GTST running a FMIC, stock turbo 10psi, stock ecu, street tyres that runs better than 13.4sec 1/4miles (real drag strip) then I'll conceed that a FMIC on a stock turbo is worth the money. Actually you can even include cars with PFC's and as much boost as you want. I intend to run a nice 12sec pass on my next trip down with the addition of a exhaust cam gear and S-afc. To my knowledge there is no one in this country running that time with similar mods. Any further modification to achieve this time (should I miss out) will NOT include a FMIC.

Expect less than 300 engine horsepower if its the stock turbo. Maybe upto 290HP @ motor? If the turbo is high flow the boost controller will be set to more than 14psi/ 1bar. Also I'd expect there to be some sort of aftermarket engine management (at least a chipped ecu). The hiflow turbo situation would be anyones guess.

The 660' and terminal indicates that with a good 2.1 60ft you can get at least 13.9. The reation time aint too big a deal. 0.6sec is pretty good for an RT tho'.

yes, on the clutch: Don't go thrashing the crap out of the car when you have just installed a new clutch. You want to 'bed in' the friction material on the clutch plate. To do this take it easy for about 300kms and deliberately 'slip the clutch' when taking off. This entails giving it about 1500rpm and very gradually letting the clutch out gently allowing it to slip. As always I'm happy to help.

Sydneykid your a champ! It's great to have that kind of test info about for others to get at when considering what to spend their hard earned dosh on next. It's interesting that the peak power figures of some aftermarket intercoolers are quite a bit higher than the factory one on a dyno. I have often thought that since intercoolers (like radiators) rely greatly on airlflow when moving at speed that a dyno comparison overweights the figure in this way.

13B injectors are top feed. If the Sub-zero rail is top feed then no-problem'o.

good stuff mate! 0.9 Bar is ok on std internals. The power generated by that 0.9Bar is also significant though. A well tuned setup will allow you to run 500HP on the stock internals. The thrust bearing is sometimes the source of the noise in the clutch setup and twin plates can sound a little noisy but, they aren't real loud. Sounds like you have some good fruit to play with.

2.1 is good. how about the 660ft & 1000ft time/speed for the 14.1? These can give a little insight into how quick the car can go too.

Really? I thought they did a version for autos and the only auto they don't work with was the R34? Well if they don't do a version specific then forget I suggested it and look for something else.

MrGTST, What was the best 60ft time you got for the night?

Did someone say Darryn Hinch? I'd pay to see him fight Kerry-ann.

The aftermarket BOV's require spring adjustment to set correctly. This adjustment needs to be spot on to have the level of operation the stock unit offers. On top of this, if the ecu is standard then the new BOV needs to be a recirulation type. Atmospheric styles cause the between throttle mixtures to be way out resulting in dulled power. If it aint broke don't fix it. While on the topic....the factory BOV's are often accused of leaking. They do. They are designed to. The small passage that allows this leakage does not interfere with holding boost (it is more likely to be the crap stock wastegate actuator). The small leakage allows better throttle response in the low to mid range.

boostd, I'm not a fan of the aftermarket BOV on a stock turbo. Experience shows me they are often a step backwards in performance. It is a superficial mod. It is totally unnecessary in the pursuit of a 13.4 second 1/4mile.

No the auto has no flywheel. The converter can be high stalled tho'. I'd stick with the APexi Power FC for the Auto.

the boy should be running 11's. No pressure Adam

if you like the sound then you can put up with the fact that car will be slower than it was with the stock one. It will be slower. It might stall on you frequently. You can get a S-afc to stop the stalling but, again your going to go slower than stock -- you will have that lovely sound tho' and theres no substitute for 'sounding' fast.

trade in the slow R33 gts-t for another slow car sounds like a plan to me. You have a family right? The only problem with the XR6 turbo is they don't offer mission brown as a paint job with black vinyl roof. And they get a good beating by 1978 volvo wagons in drag races.

I have a nice 9 button metal/ceramic clutch plate and standard pressure plate and it feels just like the stock clutch except it hangs on under full power.

The std airbox will handle the power. If it doesn't (and it will) you can change it later. Find something better to blow money on. Saves on the permits and extra $$ for two pods and the airbox (must have item or go backwards in power). Also the filter change does bugger all to increasing power. People do go on and on about it but when you see the 'real' results you would laugh. Leave pods for the NA civic boys its one of the only mods they can do.