rev210

Thanks mate. In all honesty the extra weight in the boot probably did help a bit ( I had 3/4 or so tank of fuel too), the weight didn't help the poor clutch. But, really putting extra weight in your car to go faster is a bit wrong isn't it? The diff kit is an interesting thing too , I have only got the back half installed. Due to my renowned slackness I couldn't be jiggered putting the front section in. It sure has improved things tho' none the less with only more potential to come if I install the rest. The refridgerated ic I only switched on for the staging on the first and second runs, after that it was pretty cold anyway so I left it off. It was off for my 13 pass.

You R32 guys have GOTBOOST running 13.7s, the R33 stockie team needs some revving up so we don't fall victim to every silvia that motors past. All the other R33's on the night were running mid 14's exept Rob77 he got a flat 14 from memory.

Yeah I was running 10psi as opposed to 8 so the 2.1 would have got me a 'fat bastard' time. I speculate the ol dunger could have got a 13.7 maybe a 13.6 (with 1bar ) then again it didn't so we will never know. I actually got the flywheel to go with the clutch, the clutch has been on it's way out for a while ( I carry too much in the boot all the time and try to race people on private roads ). I thought if I'm going to do the clutch I may as well do the flywheel.

Cheers guys. I hope this encourages 'our team'. I won't be down the drags again (to race) until I replace the stock clutch (poor things done 90k) and get some tyres a little wider than razor blades.

BTW , Does anyone know who's white silvia ran that 12.9?

Well I finally got off my ass and went down to the plex. It's better than ravenswood ever was I have to say. First run 14.3 Second run 14.3 Third run 21.99999 ---- smoke that clutch baby yeah! Fourth run 20.00 ------ Bang what the %$#* was that! Vacume hose blows off thanks to me cleaning the engine bay and not putting a clamp back on the other day. DOH! At least it wasn't my turbo! I had no clamp so I thought it might just blow off again at 10psi so I put boost down to 8psi to see if the next run it would come off again. I managed a 2.1 60ft tho'. Run No. 5 --- 13.8 / 101mph / 2.2 60ft. Wooo hooo! Run No. 6 ---- 16 , no more for the clutch tonight time to go home. For those interested my car has the following handicaps: 1) me driving, my own BO also affects alertness. 2) 100+kg of paper in the boot ( I took some pics of it ) 3) Stock IC , ECU (I have no additional fuel management of any kind). 4) El' crapo 205s all round on stock rims. There you go . You CAN run a 13 with a pretty stock R33, so go out and have some fun trying.

If you have cactus uni's then you can have a go at doing it yourself or any mechanic can do it, its not rocket science. Dito for the support bearing, just source the best price on a replacement part. . If you have a two peice tail shaft the support bush and bearing(where the two peices meet) can be determined as farquar if there is signs of the rubber bush perishing to the extent that you can get up and down/side to side play. Usually if it goes it vibrates all the time and makes noises.

For warranty service I go to marlows balcatta. However, if its not a warranty job you should learn to service yourself. Checking the plugs and timing and changing the oil and filter is childs play when you are shown how. Unless you have an aftermarket ecu that requires re-tuning or some other serious performance upgrade, performance shops are money NOT well spent. As for fault finding its always good to do as much of your own (with manual in hand) before handing it over to a mechanic, it can save you alot of $$$ and frustration when the mechanic fixes something that is minor. Most of the complaints I hear about 'this workshop and that workshop' come from people who still are ignorant about how complex and time consuming it can be to find a simple fault with an engine. In the motor world murphys law rules. And don't get me started on people with performance cars who expect nothing to ever go wrong once a mechanic has looked at their car. Or blame the mechanic for their engine blowing up when they drive down the road saying " what's that rattling sound? I know I'll not only keep driving but I think I might floor it to see if it goes away"

PSI or speedworks sounds good to me. If people wan't to have a dyno day sooner rather than later perhaps we can organise a day at both dyno's. A december run at speedworks then a mid/late january run at PSI (after everyone has got Power FCs for christmas).

Dude, you didn't meet a silver R33 on karrinup road a few weeks back, later an off duty police officer had a few words (karrinup/freeway bridge)?

It's a hybrid rebuild of the stock unit. Uses Rx7 hitachi bits, Brett from PSI fixed him up from memory.

Granted its a bit lighter (1kg) ,but the bastard part is the lovely smell of used gear oil in your hair. I want to know if the input seal leaks on these sorts of boxes. Also, I don't need to change the oil , I do this every 10-15,000kms anyway. 25TT --- Doesn't increase torque (this is a function of HP), it decreases intertia, similar to shedding weight from the vehicle but kinda different.

If its Myaree's dyno, I'll take my son's tonka truck it should get 200 or 300 rwhp. Lets not and say we did.

Both are ballbearing. The GT series are all ballbearing. The GT25's may require an adaptor if they have a different flange bolt pattern. As long as they have a T3 flange style they will fit pretty easy. The turbo killer T and Chris have cost about $1500 and is bolt on. It's not a ballbearing style tho' but with only 1bar gives a nice 300+ rwhp (over 200rwkw).

I'll install myself, its a dirty job but some one has to do it. HP wise: It doesn't register on a dd style dyno. The reduction in inertia and loss of friction adds up to faster accelleration, something we normally atribute to more horsepower being present. Your 0-100 times and any other accelleration based measurement will show an improvement. Every 1kg lost from the flywheel has the effect of roughly 4 - 6rwkw extra on some cars. Cost from Taka's is about $790 including freight and a credit card surcharge. Pro's : Faster accelleration FULL STOP. Less strain on the gearbox, quicker gear changes. Faster boosting. Much stronger than stock flywheel . Oh and better fuel economy ( who cares about that tho' ). Con's : None . People will say you lose revs between gears - let me assure you the speed at which you can 'slam' the gears and just pure accelleration make this a dead issue. People also make bones about the jerkiness in low speed. Ogura engineer these flywheels so well in terms of ballance it doesn't and the RB25 is a very torquey engine so even a fairly poor design wouldn't be bad I'd imagine. Side effects : as with all accelleration mods --->

2540r is worth 50hp or so over the 2530. HKS rates its own 2540r turbo 60PS over its 2530. I a single config the 2540 is hardly a 'laggy' turbo maybe if you had twins then again MarioGTR has had great results with twin 2540s over 2535/30s.

Hey Miko! Last time you helped organise the dyno day it only cost about $25 at PSI. Maybe you could have a chat to Brett? I think it would be good to use the PSI dyno again as most of us used this one last time. And as we all know the dyno is really best used as a refference (before and after) not as an absolute.

I might get down the drags tomorrow (f/wheel won't be in), car is running pretty ordinary tho' I'll have to try and give it a tune before I go down. I know the light flywheel is a great mod, I've done this to my cars in the past as one of the 'first' mods, on a turbo charged vehicle I can only imagine how much better it will be

Well taka's shipped my Ogura racing flywheel today. hooray! Out goes 9.8kg cast iron boat anchor in goes 4.8kgs of chrome-molly fun. I might get one of the sprung button clutches from autoclutch while I'm at it. BTW Anyone one know if the GTST gearbox has to be drained before removal? (ie: does the bastard leak when you drop the tail shaft out).

Sure will. Everyone knows that the intercooler goes bad if you don't keep it in the fridge:D I'm really only going down to beat everyone who lines up next to me (or at least try), going for times is not a luxury I can afford as I will be going straight from work and my boot will have the usual 100kg or so of crap in it. Besides I remember racing at Ravo's and the best part is having a 'legal' race with another hoon and having specators (even tho they say nasty things about how slow you are at least you can't hear them).

Yeah it works for some. The problem is that some street tyres will lose 'chunks' when they get burnouts done on them and of course they get 'inflated' as they get hot so if you don't run a significatly lower pressure they end up over-inflated at the take off. If I can manage to get down there tomorrow I'm going to try 19/20psi and burnouts to hopefully get less than a '15':D That is if my super cheap 205 rear tyres don't lose chunks of rubber and I don't drive like a wally.

Too low and it will farquar the handling and upset the HICAS. Give the springs some time to settle as well, go over some speed humps a few times to accelerate it.

The same reason any performance engine needs rebuilding quite often : the driver is careless. Rotory engines have many different kinds of metals in their construction and warm up is very critical to getting a long run out of them. They also consume oil, they have a metering pump that injects very small quantities into the rotor housings. You can take the pump off tho' and run a small amount of two stroke oil in the fuel tank ( then you really do have a lawn mower engine). They don't rev reliably to 10,000rpm stock. There is no point reving past 8500rpm on most configurations bar the peripheral port and large bridge port engines.Rev them hard when cold and they won't last long either. I have had quite a few chookers and they are very reliable when cared for correctly. In fact the rotory is well know for its reliable nature in racing.

At high speeds the air speed is usually enough by itself, the fan 'draws' the air through the radiator. I think the stock fan is a fluid clutch style and these aren't supposed to operate until you reach a certain temperature, most I've seem work all the time tho' cause they are knackered. The clutch style fans are good when they work. Davies Craig make replacement ones I think. If you do go the electric style make sure you retain the cowling and put it in the same position as the old fan.

Mine is a silver GTST, found 'giving it some' up that road everyday. Lunch time for West Perth liners sounds like a plan. How many of us are there?