rev210

Sorry gav I meant temp compensation lamda as in this comparison: http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/r33/ecu.jpg

The new wolf3D looks good 2048 load points & 16bit and not too $$$.

PFC does have temp correction (Lamda) BTW.

If the gearbox is cold you should not attempt to shift quickly at high rpms. If it shifts ok when warm don't be too concerned. There are many different kinds of metal found in the gearbox/diff and they all heat up and expand at different rates. This means that flogging your car whilst warming up from cold will increase the wear and this goes double for the syncros and LSD clutch packs.

BFG Drag radial TA's are a little stickier than nittos 555. Anyone know where to get either in Perth?

You don't need to program all 256 load points to get a good street tune let alone 400. 7 year old Haltech's had 512 load points, temp compensation and 250rpm incrementals if you wanted. There are a number of excellent computer options around to increase the fueling requirements of the modified streeter. Piggy backs to full replacement it's all a case of potato / tomato. At the end of the day the computer you end up getting will only be as good as the tune its given. On that topic the easier the interface is to understand the less time is taken to interpret and fewer mistakes are made (murphys law still applies).

How much did it end up costing for the turbo? I appreciate its got the T3 flange but was it a straight bolt on? cheers

Matt, What are the specs on the T4 mate? Remember to fill your boot with cement next time you go to the drags.

KCA349 is the Part No. Got from the guys in Subi on hay street, bout $113. For those who don't have the kit; go buy one now!

There is a skyline owner who sometimes parks outside 'Scott House' thats where my office is.

Redline seems to do a good job with worn syncros. A mates GTR had syncro crunchies and the redline stuff sorted it right out. If you change your oil (diff and gearbox) on a regular basis you probably will never need to run redline stuff. If you do just remember it doesn't last forever and that goes double if you give you car shtick. I change my oil (diff & gear every 10-15,000km) I would change it straight after a burnout session (tyre popper) or run at the drags or track though. Will you find little tiny metal fillings ? yes. Are metal fillings good for lubrication? no. Can I go swimming after consuming 2L of Redline shockproof oil? yes you should do it as a matter of courtesy.

I know a few guys in Darwin, I fly there for work. The drive aint real nice and it is totally un-forgiving on the car, specially the leg from Broome to Darwin. It's getting close to the wrong time of year to do this as well. If you wan't to experience the unlimited speed zones in your own car it's better to fly up and freight the car by rail.

This mod should help offset the 100+kgs of marketing material,printers and rubbish I have in my car at any given time.

I had previously put some steam pipe foam insulation on the pipe going to the plenum, just out of the stock ic. this seemed to assist in keeping this pipe cool (a good thing I guess). However as soon as the insulation ended it was stonkingly hot! (not good) I also noticed that the intake pipe from the AFM was also very hot indeed from being next to the turbo outlet pipe that feeds to the ic. What to do? So I took my DEI leftover thermo tape and wrapped the turbo outlet pipe and Bingo! My intake (AFM) pipe was much cooler and the pipe out of the ic to the plenum was very cool indeed relative to the engine bay. The only part of the intake pipe that still gets hot is the alloy factory part with the BOV on it, I'm going to put some of the foam underneath it to see if it does anything. The benifts so far: Increased vacume (similar readings to a very cold night) Increased throttle & boost response. Better ecconomy? I guess I'll find out soon. I think it's a great little mod to do, considering my under bonet temps are already alot lower than most (I have my turbo dump pipe wrapped all the way to the cat.)

Rob, if you going to pay for the labour to fit the clutch then maybe hold off and get a light flywheel at the same time too, you won't regret it. The best unit is the ogura chrome molly 4.8kgs! costs about $600 + freight, the stronger chrome molly won't scratch up as bad with the puck style clutch ,as much as the stock one will. I agree that the S-AFC is un-nessesary to achieve the 13, you clearly have enough power, the right tyres and clutch will see you there since you have the KCA349 already. A tallish profile of tyre will suit best (55-60 series), don't go the 40 series they have too little side wall flex. Having said that street tyres aren't designed to flex/wrinkle the side walls anyway, so anyone know of a good brand for this?

Looks like you CAN run a 13 in a skyline with just an exhaust/pod and boost if you can get the launch, when your terminal is 103mph. 13.7 --- 10psi/airfilter & zorst : It's the new holy grail!

You should see the 400mm times!

Wow thats a great terminal rob, 103MPH! I can see why you are going to have problems hitting 13s , and no it isn't because you don't have enough performance mods in your engine bay. It's because you have 195 16inch el-cheapo tyres! 103MPH with a better 60" and 13s are there for sure. 2.3 was grandenko's 60'' to run a 13.8 @ 166km/hr, I think Maka ran a 13.9 with a similar terminal and a 60' of 2.5? You just have to stop driving on the razor blades.

I work just opposite kings park! Well my office is there anyway, I am on the road most of the time.

This is true cause its new. (sorry didn't mean it to rhyme). I think it has one of the easiest tuning interfaces to understand and if your tuner is not a knuckle dragger they should have no problem from scratch even if they have never seen it before. R34 had the emanage recently tuned and got 302rwhp on 0.85bar can't go higher without a Z32AFM.He still has some problems in the timing adjustment due to it being auto essentially its only running in AFC mode!, but trust are helping out apparently). He got 275rwhp out of the Apexi SAFC before switching to the e-manage. KillerT has the same turbo but has a beefier rebuilt RB25DET with head porting and forgies running 1bar got 305rwhp using the Apexi PFC same dyno I believe. Thats not a bad effort for the in-expensive emanage given they are almost the same HP.

nizmokid, Best value for money would be the greddy/trust e-manage. It has real time data-logging and has been used on a 1500HP Trust RB26. It has a great deal of tuning abillity. $420 for the unit / $910 for the E-01 boost and hand controller (sell the HKS boost controler this one is better) from nengun. There are alot of great value products out there, motech is a very expensive one but has class leading resolution. The PFC though quite old now has got some great R&D behind it on the skylines and has a good reputation. It will probably come down to your tuners choice if you are not technical enough to help. The computer will be only as good as the tune it is given after all.

Fair enough. But, the fold down seat will mean you must make a sacrifice. You will be driving a car that looks pug ugly next to your very sexy 34 no matter which model you chose. I think you have become a bit spoilt. Well if you got the R34 kit for the front then it would only look like a volvo from the back (where your challengers will feel even more embarrased when you beat them). You right about sitting in them, if you do most of the driving you will be blissfully un-aware of the volvo-ness.

What about a stagea mate? Heaps of boot space and and great to drive. Easy to make them go fast too. If you didn't sell the R34 straight away you could swap all the performance gear over and sell the 34 a little cheaper.Because it has the same neoRB25 it would be very easy and you could put one of those R34 front kits on it. If you get 45k for the red one you might nab a 97 Autech version at auction, mind you getting the plate for it would be very hard, privately. I think a friend of mine has just got the plate for them at his family 'yard' they finished the RAWS a while ago too. I am waiting for a review in my salary package so I can sell the 33 and buy a stagea or a 34. If you are still looking by the time I get round to seeing him again I'll let you know what they cost.

http://forums.skylinesaustralia.com/showth...25&pagenumber=1 This is an previous thread on toluene, covers most of the questions, including the myth about toluene perishing fuel hoses. BTW I think Boostmeister had a dyno run with 30%toluene mix and got 2rwkw extra without raising the boost any (where the extra power lives) MattR; The stock turbo shouldn't have the boost raised past 1 bar anyway, so its of little value unless you get it rebuilt with a steel wheel.

You are thinking of methanol (I think?). Toluene doesn't have this effect. The problem with toluene is getting a cold start when you run too high a mixture on a cold day. MattR - It's good stuff isn't it. I've had a test on mine, no dyno time just a nice 200kms worth of driving. You will find that you can run more boost as well (within the limits of your headgasket and turbo of course). I ran a brief 14psi to test and it went fine. With extra boost I'm sure you can get more than 166. BTW what mixture did you run? From memory mine was 25-30%, I'd say a 10-15% would be better without a remapp unless you go extra boost.