rev210

Hicks ran mid 14s when I was at the wed night drags. He might have run a low 14? It wasn't a nice track prep and the commo's & HSV 300kw/255's most were in the mid/high 14's for that night. Couple of good ones (worked) got low 14's and there was one or two in high 13's. There was quite a good turn out of holdens and it gave a pretty fair comparison of performance (ie: everyone had to contend with the same crap track). I don't think you can muck around with the 5.7s if you expect to beat them on the street. I've won against most of the different models, not lost yet. However there are some very fast ones on the street that will show a clean pair of heals to my dunger.

Well the final chapter in the story, title reads " humpty dumpty ". All the kings horses and men couldn't put the gearbox in again.... Had the mobile mechanic out to give it a go and even he failed. At least I wasn't the only one. Its now in the hands of a workshop with a hoist.

The hoist will help. It's a complete bastard to get it back in again. I just did my clutch and flywheel and I had to get a mobile mechanic out to have a go after two days of misery. Even he couldn't do it. (Note to self: never do this again). It went to a workshop with a hoist at the end. As long as you have a couple of blokes and a hoist and have alligned the clutch properly it should be pretty easy.

Got the clutch and flywheel fitted up. Now for the gearbox to go back in. arrrg! Anyone got any tips for putting the gearbox back into the back of the motor. ie: placement/use of jack? This is always the hardest part.

What type of lightened flywheel have you got? Your car stalls because of the 'grab' on the clutch, the OS giken is pretty much 'on' or 'off' (the flywheel doesn't help but I doubt this is the major problem). The clutch I'm putting in is very forgiving, I dove my mates gtr with the same clutch, you'd swear it wasn't a ceramic button style. The 4.8kg ogura is about the lightest around. I'm still going on the install, forgot how much this type of job sucks. Next time I pay someone else to do it.

My clutch is glazed for sure. Still has plenty of material left on it but, will never grip the same and probably break appart if given too hard a time. Did you change your clutch yourself? I am about to find out how much of a bastard or not the skyline gearbox is to drop out and put back in. If you did change the clutch are there any bastard located bolts and things to look out for?

to make more money, selling something thats cheaper to produce at the same or higher price.

The Autoclutch , 9 button ceramic clutch plate. Notice it is using the bonded and rivited discs instead of a staight 'finger' for each button. Allows for more stock like take up, without the chatter.

The front of the flywheel. Like swiss cheese.

This is the gear going in on saturday. The Orurga Racing flywheel. Chromemolly 4.8kgs vs stock cast iron 9.8kgs. pic 1. flywheel

If the iridiums went in 'before the tune' they can still be rooted or need a clean. With regards to the timing : Have they re-mapped the ignition curve? If this isn't right it would explain everything including your fuel ecconomy. I was under the impresion that microtech can do ignition control.

That 9-button Autoclutch is whats going into mine, with a stock pressure plate on saturday (I'm ready for the oil bath) I'll post some pics of the clutch plate and flywheel later. It's a great setup because the ceramic buttons are located on two bonded and riveted metal discs (just like an organic) and as such there is some 'squeeze' between the plates that allows for a more forgiving take up. All other button clutches are just 'finger style' they are usually on or off and 'chatter' on take up.

Mine isn't. It's an 'all aussi' nationalised migrant (minus the roo-bar, open roof for shooting, offroad tyres and spotties). I've got dents that are over 2years old red dust all underneath (from driving on unsealed roads) and stock appearance. Like the pintara style, nothing like bringing down the rev-head posers with a 'sleeper' family car.

You mean 13.7? This last time he only managed 13.9, something about the new turbo setup causing some issues.

Chase MY tail? I think with the pineapples on you will show a clean pair of heals to my slow car. I'm hoping you do get 300+rwhp and start with some 12.5's to show up those GTR boys and girls:D 910's are pretty good as an upgrade. I'd look around for some 550cc injectors as opposed to doing the rising rate if you are going to stick with that pump (lets face it 910's are nice and quiet) What fuel management are you running macka?

Your plugs might be farquared. Dyno tuning can do this, when playing around with rich and lean mixtures at high rpm. Interesting how you say you want the 'power' you have now and the acceleration you had 'then'. I think the most recent guys tuning it calibrated the dyno to 'wanker' mode (%compensation) to show a big HP reading. I would think you had power 'then' and not now (who cares what the dyno says).

That should be fine, 550's (6 of) are roughly 550hp worth at the same pressure. you can get a reg later if you need to.

One very large point worth considering if you intend to push the stock injectors with high base pressure: * As you increase pressure your fuel pump's maximum flow decreases. This means if you want to wring every last bit out of the stock injectors with a rising rate you had better have the big ass 044 bosch or something similar. Some of the 900 series bosch intank pumps would be pushed very hard to supply the necessay fuel at the high pressures you need for stock injectors to get 230+rwkw. This is an example of pressure Vs flow for the big bosch. kgf/cm2 Flow (L/hr) 2 ------------------249 3 ----------------- 236 4 ---------------- 224 5 -------------- 206 6 ----------- 195

Formaz would be 'hard' compared to the likes of genie and myaree. At least if you have been there before you will be able to get some idea of the HP change. As far as stock injectors go. If you do the whatisname trick and fit the 044 and a malpassi you will be laughing all the way to 250+rwkw on stock injectors. I wouldn't try it on the smaller bosch pumps tho' they choke up flow at high pressures (even though they flow more than stock at the same pressure).

Thats a pretty good gain for the same dyno. At least you know something worked (intercooler/s-afc retune). Does the road feel back up the dyno improvement. Be good if one of us had a g-tech or something.

What was your 60ft / 330ft and 660ft times / also the mph of the 660ft and terminal mph and time. This can tell you where things are coming un stuck.

I think we are talking the same language. The stiffer shocks/springs reduce compliance in their own way but as a result perhaps the energy resident in the subframe mounts without the kit cause excessive movement in the diff cradle. Adding the kit in any form reduces this compliance/movement and eliminates the 'bounce'. I guess like everything its a case of the weakest link in the chain. I'm afraid mine wont be much good to measure after getting installed they are bound to have squished down a few mm or so. You can get a pdf off the whiteline web page I think with the install and specs?

Fair enough. I don't know if your experience is with stock shocks and standard spring rates when you suggest that there is no 'bouncing'. Sub frame doesn't vibrate btw, it contacts the bumpstops, I marked them to find out with white ink (liquid paper). I since removed the front section of the pineapples (I'd only just put them in - doh!) back to my half a setup until/if I get firmer setup for the rear. There is less clearance to the bump stops when the car squats thanks to the geometry change. My shocks are in good servicable condition ,tho' stock, and it never 'bounced' before (exactly the same behaviour as axle tramp tho' technically not the same thing I guess). There are other stock suspension lines that have the same symptoms (none of them have faulty suspension).Rob77 for instance. The only 'fault' is not having a firmer suspension than stock. But, hey I know that, we used to put in extra leaf springs before resorting to tramp rods. If you take away the compliance in the stock cradle mounts then the energy's got to be absorbed/transfered somewhere else, poor old stock springs and shocks. Interestingly I guessed that I might get 'axle tramp' before I had even put them in because every time I have started down the path to rear wheel traction in past cars this has been a good sign that you are on the right track.

The genie one is a good 'car seller' I ran a guy who just had a fresh 305rwhp chart from the genie dyno and handed him his ass several times at no stage did he ever look like keeping up. In the real world i don't think I've got any more than 200rwhp ( I've not had a dyno for a long time all the same). Formaz sounds good for just $50 a run.

I think they must skimp on the VHT on the wed. nights. When I went down last time Gotboost had his new cooler on and ran the same times. Who was the quickest line down there. 14.1 might have made you the fastest?