rev210

cheap, reliable,fast Pick only two. You get the picture. You buy a modified fast skyline thats reliable = money You buy a cheaply modified fast skyline = broken bits later = money pit. You buy an unmodified stock skyline = reliable & not a money pit (till you start modifications that is). Performance cars are a money pit, thats life.

$1400 ! Thats very good. People spend more than that on making thier GTR look faggy. A carbon tailshaft is well worth the money. Manufacturers are using them now on fairly cheap sports cars for the range of benifits they offer. I've got this on my list of mods for my R32 GTR bunky and I'm only building a 300rwkw car.

toluene and a little acetone, all you need. I started a DIY race fuel thread in forced induction, I think it's under FI guide sticky.

You need a bigger direct port kit then and along with the rebuild and extras you can have the 800rwhp. And when it's not on you can have the turbo setup for super response.

Sorry to those who couldn't PM me, just cleared out my PM box.

Build the setup with less power via turbos and grab a big nitrous kit. * You can build a responsive setup that will go well on a track on the odd occasion (without gas) * It will be great to drive on the road and very responsive. * With enough nitrous and a very well built motor you can have your 800rwhp, just go for a large nitrous setup. easy. * You only need the gas on those occasions you visit the drag strip so its far more ecconomical to setup, leaving lots of money for building your motor and drive train.

Basically nothing is going sepparate.

Hi, I think the Pods being un-sheilded is a quick area to fix, I just used some foam matting and the intake temps on the PFC dropped 10 degrees or more. Or go get the standard airbox. Once you have an ecu, a set of cams is a great move to beef up the mid range power and enable you to make more power (or the same if you want to keep the old original motor alive longer) with less boost, timing , rpm and less agressive fuel map. On standard turbos my old car with cams made about 40rwhp more than people get out of adjusted cam gears as low as 3,000rpm. So it's a good mod for a mild worn motor setup. GT-SS turbos look to be a good size but, smaller varients of the N1 or even stock turbos with steel wheels. I reckon 300rwkw is more than enough if you can fatten up the power band on a stock motor.

bump

you should feel good that the bigger turbo's don't feel laggier.

Suspension/brakes/tyres ?

There is therapy and medication for you irrational fears Roy The people who have driven the R35 seem to have a hard time wiping the smile off thier faces, good sign we don't need to be afraid. How cool would it be to drive something as heavy as an old dodge charger lapping the ring as fast as this thing?

Price drop!

If you have steel wheel turbos even better and a good idea to get some cams along the way. Jump onto a set of Tomei type A cams. 260 intake and 256 exhaust. Big gains to be had. Even on stock GTR turbo's, they smack the stock cams even with adjustments, as I have proven on my old GTR with the Tomei 260's.

I like the HKS ones, only 3 allen keys to muck about with

Sorry Lith, my 'giving me flak..' comment was sarcastic. Whilst practice is a good thing and you have been going to a track for 7 years, have you ever let a guy drive your car who competitively races a drag car? Have you ever sought advice on getting better times from one of these guys/gals while at the track? In other words have you had lessons yet? When I took my first car to the strip I spent probably the better part of a season 'practicing' and it wasn't till I actually had a guy walk up an say to me 'you seem to be having trouble getting off the line' that it dawned on me. All drag strips around the country on street meets are quite often lacking a drag meeting prep. But, the argument is that such slow 12second + cars don't really benifit much from it. And in my experience thats true. Some of my old cars (non-skyline) ran 11's and 12's with consistant 60ft's irrespective of track prep. A track is usually prep'd for the top fuelers/funny cars or mad idiots driving whatever they now reffer to altered as, where grip means safety even more than times. With your present mph I'm pretty confident I could get your car down a 1/4 mile of greased up slip'n'slide on 205 tyres covered in soap in a mid 12.

Guy I spoke to over here in Perth who is driving the GTR in targa west ,Steve, says it acutally 'feels' every bit as responsive as his smaller lighter evo that he used for last years event did but, actually better in terms of total control. It's like the tardis in reverse handling wise. Big luxo-barge weight / evo like response in handling. Tyre and brake killer I suspect though? Alot of the reviewers seem to be amazed by the handling not only for it's weight but, just in general. I mean a Mazda bongo van is very light but, when a strong breeze at 100km/h just about tips it over you wouldn't call that the be all criterior for a great handling car?

The VK56 has a pretty bullet proof bottom end. These things are out of nissan Titans that weigh between 2200kgs to 2400kg's or so and 15.4 sec 1/4 miles out of the lightweight? 2,200kg ones have been done stock. not bad for a full size truck with a 5spd auto-gearbox. People get them into 12's with a small shot of gas . lose 800kgs or so and how fast would you go?

front only. easy question .

Came across this VK56 a guys doing to his S14. Figure you should be able to get one into a skyline with a pair of turbos?

Yep. Nitrous is easy. Supporting systems for the extra horsepower and therefore fuel required to handle and you're done. It's very cheap horsepower relatively speaking. You could add 100hp or 400hp depending on what the motor is built to take.

PRICED TO SELL !

107mph is 12 second material no problem.

Quite a few bit's didn't make it onto the Autech's. They don't have an aluminium bonnet/guards and quite a few other bits. And they didn't sell real well in Japan understandably. Last pics I saw of a few of them together they were dirty and rusted. good news is a nice example would be plenty cheaper than an R33 GTR. There's a better market for them in Australia, as we like to 'all pile in' our mates car like the pack of bogans, deep down we know we all are. Don't look as good . Don't go as good. But, they don't look bad or go bad and can carry a bunch of your drunk mates.

I have known a few examples of heat wrap leading to fatigue and cracking, both instances were caused by uneven wrapping and no paint being applied. One example was my brother's car , he was a slack bastard and there were gaps that allowed condensation in. I re-wrapped his next set of extractors and he never had problem again. I have heat wrapped lots of exhausts inc. rotary exaust pipes without any issues for many years. I've done this to so many cars including mates and never had any issues. The absolute rubbish people go on about cracking is due to people not doing things properly. You notice non-wrapped stainless manifolds are far more prone to it. Hell even Tomei supply heat wrap with thier RB26 replacement stainless turbo manifolds, I wonder why? Maybe they want you to come back and buy more manifolds off them when they go and crack on you? Stupid!