rev210

profec b is very good, its been working well for me.

the bigger lift ones need material taken ot to clear.

I reckon 5 mates packed in the back yelling and screaming and throwing half full cans of beer randomly at cars, bikes , pedestrians and small dogs is a far better way of drawing attention to yourself. Although if you already have that option get a few off duty barmy army members (they don't have much work on right now) to sing a loud and catchy song about how your mates car goes 'dose' from the back seat of the car, even from inside the boot?

Your mate needs a dose? I think lots of the VL commodore owners take large doses of Calton draught in carton quantities.

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If your the sort of person who likes to start or participate seriously in these sorts of threads I say put a good set of semi slicks on your head prefferably covering your mouth and you should run under a 5 pushed off a 1/4 mile cliff in either car of your choice. OR go here and learn true power and be a real quartermile killer! www.realultimatepower.net

At 250rwkw you aren't going to win any dyno competitions? Thats all that peak figure means. It's a peak power figure rather pointless except to determine necessary limits of fuel flow etc.. Why you want that figure is more important. Ask a different set of questions like.. * What do you want to do with the car from a performance perspective? * Are you trying to achieve any kind of real performance benchmarks? (like a 1/4 mile time or lap time).

From memory, the longish runner length on efi applications usually is to do with pulse interference at low engine speeds causing issue with mixtures. More for low speed / light load on a turbo application. It gives each cyl a more sepparated source of air for better mixtures. Once force fed it becomes a non issue and restriction takes over as the big problem. Longer runners might be slightly more restrictive in that situation. Bell mouths help improve over the factory design and perhaps might offset he shortening of the runners a bit for less pulse interference. I did see a pic recently of a Stryder plenum and the bell mouths seemed to be hard up against the walls of the plenum, that would kind of negate the benifit they have. The Plazmaman units look very good though.

The plazman units have been tested to deliver 15rwkw peak power improvement over standard on just a stock turbo application. So thats 15rwkw you can't get with the same setup on the factory plenum. Peak power is however the least important fact and almost not worth looking at. The average power increased significantly. Plus the bonus is better response off boost which the Rb20 so desperately needs. I'm considering one myself because I can't get away from the fact that it's a good idea every way you look at it (if you have a front mount like I do) and not really that expensive once you have decided not to exceed a level of power but, you are chasing more average power. Average power is king you see. Sure you can get to 200rwkw with or without one (then again the plenum is probably always going to be 15rwkw or more higher) but, with the higher average power this ought to give you, a car equiped with one will smash one without in any gear and in any enviroment. It simply will out accellerate it period. Or if you want to cap the power at 200rwkw you can achieve this with less boost. I'm not suggesting you don't look closely at the dollar value on performance return (it's worth getting as much info from the manufacturer to back up the claim) but, peak power means bugger all by itself. my 2c

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on an Rb20 the plenum gets you shorter intercooler pipework for improved response and with shorter runners and larger volume chamber with bell mouths you improve top end power capabillities.

The stryder stuff doesn't look too shabby. The RB20/25 units have bell mouth velocity stacks. The standard RB26 plenum isn't worth changing to one of these however.

Plazmans units are pretty good. These look ok as well. Shorter runner length than using the factory bottom half. Works out to around $700 inc frieght. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RB20-DET-In...7QQcmdZViewItem

Do it right and you will kick your dads ass. A mid to low 13 can be acheived even without the S-AFC, again if you do things sensibly. The R33 gtst is basically a 13 second car with an exhaust and 10psi of boost, if your car is slower than that you screwed somthing up. Just don't go silly with lots of mods all at once, you may find you don't need all of them to get the car where you want it. By the way 200rwkw of peak power isn't a very good goal. Think about average power AKA torque instead, thats what makes the car fast and fun to drive.

anDru, I live in Perth WA, so ARE is further away than you are. The service they give is great in the experiences I have with them. It's quite easy to pick up the phone and have a chat to them. What you might like to do is work out your average horsepower requirement or goal. .The average or sweetspot of airflow can then be determined around which you then size and design the intercooler to return peak efficiency at around this point. As an example I upgraded the standard GTR intercooler for an ARE that matched my required average power and the difference was night and day. Particularly in the low & mid range and very noticable in lower gears in off boost or vacume. The factory GTR cores are not shabby at all, certainly better than a china core of the same size and type. One example I can think of recently was an SR20 powered race car going from a Hybrid intercooler to a custom built ARE based on recommendation. It picked up 30rwhp extra. The intercooler core was slightly smaller than the original from memory.The most important area of improvement was over the whole power band. For a street car that doesn't drive around non stop at full throttle and maximum boost, you need to be aware of the light throttle and cruise downsides if the intercooler is very large. It also will dull response to boost in lower gears where there isn't the sort of load to produce boost. Consider a bolt in R34 intercooler as a stepping stone while you still have the stock turbo, they are hard to beat and easy to on-sell once you do upgrade. I think spending a few days in the shed with the turbo, injectors, intercooler etc. all being bolted on at the same time will save a fair bit on tuning costs and leave you with tad more dollars to buy quality gear. have fun.

anDru, if you would like a custom matched intercooler for your application then these guys are excellent. www.are.com.au Steer clear of the 'bolt on boy' approach and you will get better value for your money spent even if you spend a little more in total. As they say "buy cheap buy twice"

I've not heard bad things about Ross gear. They have made very good race gear for a long time. With he said she said stuff, it's good if you can nail it down to construction features.

What sort of 'higher power' are you talking about. Make that the basis of your parts selections as opposed to 'cheap'.

some bits to help go quicker; * 0.8mm gapped plugs (BCPR6ES) a few bucks each * 10psi or so of boost boost control EBC for under $400 or bleeder * Pineapples AKA rear cradle bushes about $100 --- helps you get traction * Turbo back exhaust * exhaust cam gear * S-afc II * upgraded clutch (the stock one dies very quickly) While your at it get a light weight flywheel. * keep the stock airbox and run a high flow element That lot is enough to run low 13 or high 12, with a healthy car and tune. Low 13's even if your traction sucks. My old R33 had the above mods on 10psi odd made about 170rwkw or so and ran 13.3 with a 2.3 60ft (ie: wheel spin a-go-go), a few others have run 12's . This is with a stock intercooler by the way.

Ross make balancers for them too. About $550.

read in here; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=66556

get an old volvo and stick a V8 in it or a 1jz , front cut for one of those is only $1400. Volvos have big ass brakes and massive engine bays, not to mention the diffs are dana's on some of the 70's models meaning it's not too hard to get LSDs and different gear sets and they are super strong. Nothing better than driving this sort of sleeper, I have experience. I used to love driving my old unit around. As you can see lots of room in the engine bay.

the whine would most likely be a bearing noise.

An example of cam timing changes I can give you on an RB , my old GTR with stock cams ran the happy +2 intake and -4 exhaust with stock turbos. When the Tomei cams came along I ran +3 and -2 on stock turbos To get the same shape on the power curve with more power everywhere with 700hp Group A turbos I had -2 and -5. Another guy with the same sized turbos shooting for more power had radically different cam timing again to reflect the rpm and higher boost he was running. Each step of the way a retune took place. As a point of interest each tune with the tomei's had the cams set at 0 and 0 at one point. They made less power than stock up top when matched to stock turbos and the power fell off at high rpm particularly with the group A turbos when at 0 and 0 as opposed to other settings. Porting the heads and enlarging valves also can have an effect as does different manifold designs both intake and exhaust. You just need to spend more time on the dyno adjusting and tuning for the cams. There is probably nothing wrong at all with anything.

carbon $2.1k delivered from ACPT (same guys who do Mines etc.)