rev210

Since you did the leak down test with a little of oil (10ml is a fair whack) and got no change , when you ought to have an increase I'd say you have ring seal issues big time. You are going to need to pull it down by the looks.

The longer primary split dump pipes seem to have good evidence to be benificial on a GTR.

IF they did indeed do this then I hope they never see the outside world again. The sentence of misery and hurt for that child is an entire lifetime, far longer than the sentence for the crime.

Didn't know ARC offered custom end tank and core configs, thats a big plus for them. It clearly shows that they are in the business of producing equipment for race teams that offer the right application fit.

Granted the ARC is of excellent construction but, so is the ARE. I am not privy to any back to back testing of ARC and ARE so I can't comment but, if you have no data, neither can you. ARE have the plus that they don't have a one size fits all mentality that afflicts the jap brands. ARE do a great deal of on-going flow bench research to get the most from the end tank design. ARC are offering an off the shelf 'bolt on' , it has excellent build and design. The cons are limited selection of core size and end tank config. You end up with some compromises and unless you happen to fluke it with your setup it's unlikely you hit the sweet spot for overall design efficiency. You get a good improvement of course. ARE can undertake a custom build around airflow requirements based on hitting an 'average horsepower' aiflow target. They have some tricks in endtank design they have developed to increase flow they can throw in too. Overall you get something 'aimed' at your specific application.

As people have said the factory unit is very good. I fitted a custom ARE intercooler to mine for that approximate power target. It was an improvement.

The standard cold air box with a good element like a piper cross/K&N or similar is pretty decent. As mentioned the Pod filter has more induction noise however if its contained in a good sealed airbox with a cold air feed tube the noise is no louder really. Perhaps a good sign if the cold air box is well made?

And spend some time searching here and forced induction area generally: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=66556

If you are pretty cashed out with loan repayments and you are only just getting the car now then I reccomend doing absolutely nothing for the next 3 months until you have ensured the car is up to date with it's servicing. You may require a trans service as well as changing the fluids all round, this will cost a few dollars. The time will allow things to hopefully show thier faces, and if you aren't mechanically clued in then a first time visit to a workshop to have the car checked over is a smart move too.

The oil thermo stat isn't really needed in most parts of australia. Always allow the motor to come to temp before driving away, you should always do that. And yes an oil cooler is a great idea for an RB engine

I think it is certainly a serious setup proposition, the kit to build a TB48 stroker is alot cheaper for a 1200+ hp setup than anything offered in the RB space. Where money and hassle are par for the course. Whether there is an easy way to plonk one in the engine bay is another case. If it is relatively straight forward the potential is hard to overlook.

some actual engine dimensions would be good to quantify the 'huge' part, having seen a few conversions in patrols the Tb42/48's not as big as a chev/LS1 or holden V8. They are obviously bigger than an RB engine but, they sure aren't 'huge' in the passenger car engine world. We know someone has plonked an LS1 into an R33 so it would be interesting to find a bit more 'real' info out. 6boost was the guy looking at building the drag car with one from memory.

Has anyone thought about a TB48 (with turbo) conversion to thier RB powered car? I believe someone over east was looking to build an altered drag car with one. Makes for an interesting concept if it will fit in the engine bay considering reduced effort in making very large amounts of power, perhaps even 1,500+ hp with a 5.15L stroker like this kit; http://www.briancrower.com/makes/nissan/tb48.shtml

Hi, The F1 exhausts are now made of inconel which if polished has a very very low emissivity .Not a great deal of need for the coating there. Although it might help. Why did they go for inconel? here is a pic of a renault motor I found from the 2005 season 'coated'. As you say some are & some (polished inconel aren't). I think we agree about the exhaust manifold and turbine all the same The zicotec web page I linked mentions power increase if you look down near the bottom of it.

mokompri, How hard did you look at F1 or Indy Car? It's probably pretty hard to get info on it to be fair as it's such a small bit of tech on such a big operation like F1. Zircotech was one name involved in developing a range of technologies on contract for various race teams around the world, they are largely an organisation that develops technology for licencing. The ceramic coating has been used in the formula 1 space. They outline the reasons in basic form here; http://www.zircotec.com/exhaust.html It's a very interesting website in general. HPC , a fairly popular brand name ceramic coating place has had involvement in a couple of the Indy Car and other teams over the years, in the exhaust coating products area. The physics I think I alluded to in our previous discussion are based around the emissivity and how the trapped energy effects the gas/air density and hence increases it's flow. Emissivityis the ratio of reflected Vs absorbed engery at the same temperature. A true black body has a ratio of 1 so for applications trying to keep the energy within the diameter of the object a lower ratio is the goal. By having trapped a greater amount of energy inside the object the thermal efficiency is greatly increased and therefore air/gas density is kept lower and gas flow veloctiy is higher. Strangely this is a good part of the reason why the 'hemi' chamber head works better than a conventional style ,it has greater termal efficiency in it's abillity to keep thermal energy in the chamber to lower exhaust gas density further and thereby get it out the exhaust valve quicker. You can get a conventional head to flow just as well on the bench in terms of numbers but everyone one knows once it goes into action the Hemi head based motor is going to make more power with everything else being equal. You can make this even better from a performance point of veiw by ceramic coating bits in the combustion chamber to trap more heat in. Tops of pistons combustion chamber and valves etc. Quite a bit of data on the power increases in that space too. Just thought that might add a little to the discussion from the side. It is a very hard thing to completely understand all the same (I'm not altogether full bottle and I don't think I ever could be) but, the evidence seems to support the theory that it is a performance thing too.

Take the car to the drags again. If your terminal speed is up on last time then no drama. No harm in having a safe tune, dyno's are only a tuning tool. Looking at the graph against AFR can help tell you if there is more in it to extract of course, the final number is not important. It is the change in number and it's magnitude across the graph that indicates good things. Don't get hung up on dyno comparisons, whats the point in having a peice of paper that says 200rwkw if someone can show you one with 170rwkw for the same type of car. A that car is faster and more powerfull where it shows up and where it counts, on the track.I lost count of the number of times I've seen it and the number of people who don't get it years ago. Just don't sweat it mate.

The factory cast alloy intake/ cold pipes are pretty thick and do stay hot for a while since there is enough mass to hold onto a bit of heat, so there's probably a little to get by wrapping them, no harm since they look pretty ugly. Less of an issue if all the pipes are thin though. Just on the cooling side it's also worth throwing some slightly longer bolts with some washers onto the bonnet hinge to give you a little gap at the back to aid the air getting out.Bit of an old school mod that one but, one that works very well. The good thing about my old R32 GTR was Nissan must have thought that one ahead, they have a rubber seal that you can remove covering the gap the bonnet position already has, you just take it off and hey presto! . I noticed an intake temp drop of 2 degrees on the R32 GTR ,which is pretty good. Most of the other cars I did it to being much older grabbed some even bigger gains (7-8 degrees).

Those turbos flow more alot more air at 15psi than stock ones. More air but, only the factory fuel and ignition maps that are suited for the smaller turbos. The factory ecu does run fairly rich usually so you have a little head room for power but, those turbos have a fair whack more power potential than you have margin for error. The main issue may not be right up top either but, rather the peak torque point which on those more efficient turbos will possibly be higher than factory at the same point the factory turbos make peak torque. Bottom line is you don't want to go guessing that 15psi will be good clean fun. Get the boost right down as low as you can and then throw it on a dyno and see what you can take it to boost wise without getting yourself a Power FC or S-AFC ,at least something. You might be able to run 15psi but, without taking it there under dyno or O2 wideband observation you may find a new bill sitting in your engine bay.

turn the boost right down 7 psi or so, till you get a tune/Power FC.

old gtst got 10-11L/100km city and better hwy 8-9. I log booked it over 3 years approx 30,000km yr.

10min each sounds about right for torquing them down. The nissan sequence if the cams are correctly positioned , does just that as you are saying. I think you are quite right as when you see it all before the cams go in it just makes sense to do it that way. If you have the right kind of training and experience in engine building you can work it out without knowing the nissan manual sequence as long as you know the torque target on the bolts . I didn't break mine, and I'm pretty sure I never would with a good set of new bolts. Re-used old ones is where you are gambling. If they are known to break it means they are really past it after 100,000kms or so. I managed to break an old one I tried to re-use and I have heard of others breaking some time after being re-installed, lesson learnt no harm no foul.

Excellent! Do you just follow the Nissan manual or do you take some other precautions?

wrapping the 'hot' side is because it tends as you say to be hotter than the engine bay. With that in mind I try to keep it's extra heat sealed in and let the intercooler take care of the business of getting the heat out. If you can reduce the engine bay temps as a whole it lowers the heat soak that everything cops. So things like the plenum etc are a little cooler. Not to mention reducing the number and severity of burns you get working in a hot engine bay No harm wrapping the 'cold pipe' all the same.

Mokompri, The world of mechanics is ruled by Murphys law as well as those physics ones. One of the most common misconceptions about using a torque wrench to tighten bolts like these or on a head is that the torque reading on the wrench indicates how much load is on each bolt. The reading on the wrench only tells you how much twisting force is being applied on each bolt. The actual clamping load will be much, much higher, and will depend on the friction in the threads, the size, pitch and diameter of the treads, and the length of the bolt, temp (good to do it on a hot day but, not for the person) and things like how long the stupid cam is and the bending forces it goes through on the way to sitting nicely in there. For example a stretched bolt might bottom out at a different height to a healthy bolt from and therefore can give you issue. Sometimes not right away but, maybe the next week or next month it goes or you get lucky and nothing happens for a year till you go racing. These bolts are run of the mill units that acheive maximum clamp at thier yeild point which if exceeded has them deform to some extent, permanently. Unlike a TTY style of head bolt these don't spring back up to it's yield point as they deform. So if they have had some use you are best to ditch them. It also means even new ones can cause grief as the leverage along such a long stick of metal makes for a bigger margin for error. So change those old bolts and cross your fingers. Hope that sheds some light. Then again maybe an engine builder or two would like to put thier hand up for a record number of RB cam changes without a breakage?

200K euro = $334k AUS. This Mines built R34 actually sold for less than $150k recently I believe? http://autostyleprestige.carpoint.ninemsn....styleprestigeau