ylwgtr2

i have one... i dont think mine sounds crap...altho i might be wrong...

yeah disassemble it!

oh btw left hand thread on the compressor shaft!

i would pull apart the turbo and clean it with carb cleaner then soak the bushs in oil for a while then reassemble it ....make sure you get it rebalanced or at least mark the comp wheel before you take it apart

yep thats how you do it..... what i do is paint the part in 2k clear and then mould it......but your going to have fun trying to get a good product out as there is a lot of trial and error

in defence for the trade....A,we most certainly dont get paid enough,especially by insurance company's they pay $23 an hour and this is supposed to pay a tradesman who works for say $20 and hour,his super, holiday pay ect and overheads and make a profit!B, after repairs have been done the job needs to sit for at least a week before painting for shrinkage of the materials C,unforseen mishaps that happens doing this sort of work ie previous dodgy repairs playing up.... also take into consideration that in an accident not only the body gets damaged also wiring,mechanical parts get damaged aswell so a panel shop has to play the part of being a mechanic and an auto elec.....and get paid $23 an hour where auto elec and mechanic will get $50....go figure that one out!

its in the prestige section..... members of the general public can send there car through for a small fee

its up on tuesday

this car is for auction at pickles auctions in tullamarine....any one seen it around?Looks to have done some track days

one post up champ....

....for right angles and moulding i use vacuum to pull the material to the mould but flat stuff is easy

i use a sheet of glass for making flat panels....wipe wax over it a few times and laminate off the edge of the glass so you got something to pull it off from....i dont use gelcoat as glass lets the resin ride flat....use vinyl ester resin for glossy a result....for right angles and moulding i use vacuum to pull the material to the mould but flat stuff is easy

looks to a load of bollocks after all

managed to get it working and yep its a trap for the shit that falls through the hole....Factory bonnets are painted and the quality is quite poo...you can still see the woven mesh throught the paint...they tape up the vent hole before painting them thats why it looks like a separate part.....Do you want one of these vents?I could hack one out of an old panel if you like

cant see it for some reason....but at a guess it might have a rubber piss flap or mesh to stop the weather getting in

no.....its on the carbon bonnets only and its moulded into the bonnet......not a seprate parts

pffft who knows....while you bitches were playing girls games i was at home pulling apart the lawn mower so i could squeeze a bit more grunt out of it

what marcus has posted is the correct shape......some of the motorbike panels we repair have that duct on them

id say its better to relieve the head....i knew of the base circle thing but myself id just be going the other way

Hi mark...acrylic/single pack enamels both have the same characteristic's altho enamel will go over anything and not play up where as acrylic over single pack enamel fry's up...so having said that once you paint anything in single pack enamel your stuck with it untill you bare metal it.....both still wash off with solvent tho,which would concern me with using this product as some wheel cleaners may strip it off....

hows that done?Diffrent base circle and big shims?

cant do...you have to releive the head

heres a thread with some candy tips http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...1entry1678981

i havent seen this product(or read the complete thread) but am tipping its just a candy ..would i be right in saying its put over the top of a silver?It will also be an acrylic system which will just wash off with any type of solvent.... Another way of doing it is strip the paint off the calipers then spray etch primer on them then paint them in a silver ground coat and get a product called SEM candy concentrate in what ever colour candy you want....add the concentrate in some 2K clear and thats it....Its certainly a better way of doing it and will last as long as your paint on your car and will have to use paint stripper to get it off....To answer shans question,this system has been used for 20 odd years and we have painted complete cars/motorcycles with it...I am sure that people are aware that this is not anodising...its just an anodise look....cast cannot be anodized properly

water pumps are not interchangable.....earlier rb26's have a diffrent block casting so be carefull