R31 drift pig

what about machining it into a VG30 exhaust housing? My understanding is it'squite a bit bigger than a 25 one. Would it limit power TOO much? Be nice and responsive id imagine? Im thinking of doing this for my RB20DET, but with a GT2871, into a RB25 exhaust housing (Already have RB25 turbo on car) As for KKR, Only MAJOR drama Ive heard is they've had WG problems, and as Simon said, you'd need cams and tuning to make the most of it. Is getting the stock turbo Highflowed an option?

040 will be fine, I just said Walbro as its a bit cheaper. X-Treme 5 puk ceramic clutch will take the most abuse, $440 i think they are. HD organic will be a bit easier to drive, but wont take to thrashing as much. Usually when you buy an engine package, you get the right box with it.... so A RB20 engine package will have the turbo box and so forth.

HKS GT2535, or a HKS GTRS.

Yes. I decide whether you car runs or not.

R32 Engine package - $1600 - $1800 R32 Just Jap FMIC Kit - $350 Walbro pump - $180 Turbo Tech Bleeder - $30 Boostworx Remapped Ecu $550 Just Jap Dump Pipe and Exhaust Tech mild steel exhaust - $600 X-Treme Single plate 5 - puk Clutch $440 = 180 @ wheels, on stock injectors/AFM/internals, and wont stress the box either. Easy, Reliable power. You will need a pump above 140 odd at the wheels. Stock R31 pump is no good for anymore. Id also do the clutch BEFORE you put it in, pain in the ass to remove the box from the car. Id do that and leave it there.... it's still a friggin handful. Wouldnt bother with injectors for a RB25 turbo, Im using a Sard FPR to bump up the rail pressure.... when I get my GT2871 Ill go a set of 550cc sards and a Z32.

This is exactly what Id be doing then.... I have a very similar setup, except using a RB25 S2 turbo, SARD FPR and EBC.

Daily driver mate. If he gets cought with a 25DET, he's f**ked. simple. Just Like Joel was. Never get the car off defect, unless you engineer, which would be $3000-$4000+ He gets cought with a 20, he has a chance of getting through regy unscathed. a 31 can be insured with a 20 in it too. Cannot with a 25. He hits a Merc or something and they dont cover him because of the engine, he's gonna be paying it off for years. As much as 25's make heaps of power yadda yadda yadda, Doesnt change the fact that 25DET's cost a shitload more than a 20, plus all the fabrication to do so. I was under the impression that this was a budget build? I know its easy enough for someone with the skills (Im a Boilermaker by trade, built the X-Member in Joels car) but it sounds like he wants a straight in bolt up job. And a 25 certainly isnt. if this was a no holds bared excercise, then Id say go a 26DETT or a twin cam 30 over both of them. You keep arguing about how the 25 is so good, what about the 20? LOVES revs, MUCH better limiter, cheaper, stronger bottom end and also Cheaper to replace if you pop it. Get Bored? Stick a set of GTR injectors in there, a GT2871RS on 18psi and a Z32 with mapping to suit and make 250 with full boost by 3700rpm. And if you get bored of that, spend $5K and build a 24stroker and destroy all comers! All this being said, 200kw's in a Stifly sprung/spooled 31 (easily achieveable with either motor) is still a handful.

Cruzin 33 is dead right, the manual and auto mounting studs are in different places. I THINK factory manual X-Member bolts up if 2 holes are redrilled, but not 100% Id go a Rb20 engine package, convert to manual or buy a factory manual, (but have 3.6 gearing) and put it all in with a GTR/walbro pump, china-spec FMIC (R32/33 kits go straight in), get a 32 dump and a cheap mild steel exhaust made, a decent single plate clutch and then Remap the ECU on 1 bar. easy 180 KW's and prolly all under $2500-$3K if you do a lot of the work yourself. EBAY minispool, some decent struts/springs (or S13 coilover converion if you want) then enjoy thrashing it. Going 5 stud is a hassle, as the cheapest way we've found is to have EA falcon axles cut down and resplined, but thats still over $500, then you need to do it on the front. (S14/S13 spec) I decided to spend more on 4 stud weels rather than going through all that Wish mine was a "cheap" thrasher, Ive spent quite a bit of cash and im still stuck in the shed LOL. Nearly there.

Alright. Time to set a few things straight. I OWN a S3 R31, witha RB20 pushing 200 at the treads with S2 RB5 turbo, Fuel pump, FMIC, EBC, Remap and straight pipes I've driven a few with 25's in them. Hands down drive a 20. No question. Going from a 34, you may prefer the 25 though. I helped put in Joel/SLY031's engine gearbox, and it was a pain in the ass to do. :P a RB25 IS NOT A bolt in job- Custom G/Box X-member, custom tailshaft, and a few other bits and pieces. A RB20 engine package can be had for $1600-$1800, and is a straight bolt in job for a manual 31. Actually, I reckon for the price of a 25 package, you could have a 20 in there setup and running, modded as well. Not only that, a 25 is illegal and requires engineering, a 20 DOES NOT. Only requires a Engine number change. This may help also with insurance, as its a daily. A little food for thought

my WHOLE CAR is painted in export LOL.... how I love my thrashbox. more cableties and gaff tape than a hardware store LOL. Maybe sand it back and get some paint matched in a pressure pack? Theres a place on regency road across from the tafe that does it. Or try and find touch up paint in your colour at super cheap or something? Cheap AND effective.... if you do it well.

Export $2 rattle can jobbie if you dont REALLY care.....

GReddy profec B Spec II. Cheap and works.

Rates on the coilovers?

when I replaced whe windshield in my old coupe, it took em 3 goes to bring the right windshield out. And it cost me the most. I used instant windscreens here in Adelaide, apart from muycking me around a bit, they did a top notch job. BTW A passage one WILL NOT fit. Just specify that you have a HR31 IMPORT COUPE and they should be able to get it. if not, they're just stupid. Maybe ring nissan and see if they have a part unmber?

JMS (Japanese motorsport) here in SA have one for sale.... http://www.japanesemotorsport.com.au/prod_exterior_/1 $495.... :)

FO, FG and FX should all work as they're for a side-mount seat. But only the FO rail is on the application guide. Which rail sit's the lowest to the floor possible? And are they available for HR31, and how mucho? Cheers Ben

I actually have a Velo GP90 +1 seat. Dont fit into a bride. Too Broad in the shoulders. I know that velo seats fit into Bride rails though. Hope Like Hell you can help! :sorcerer: :sorcerer:

location mate? Keen on the shell if you're close enough. *Ben prays* :)

Can you get a low mounted rail, for a side mounted seat, for a HR31? Finding it really hard to get one, and no-one can give me a straight answer. Im over 6 foot so Id like to be as low to the floor as possible. Cheers Ben

Shaun can do real time remaps as well now.... $550. Already have the doughter board in my ecu, just waiting on stuff to arrive from japan so we can tune. DEFINATLEY worth the coin. Shauns a great tuner.

No worries steve, as soon as I have some spare cash, you'll have my order. Cheers mate. Ben

Hi Steve, Purchased a few things off you on NS.com... Was wondering actually what these are like to drive in? Im tossing up whether to use these or a fixed seat, my car isnt a full time drifter, but sees some occasional slide time. Not too worried about mounting them, thats easy enough, just wondering what they'll hold me like? Are the sides and leg bolsters firm like Genuine recaros? Cheers, Ben.

actually a trust rear bar as well now. And yes, genuine R33 GTR rear quarters. For Sale as well, $24k. Bargain if you ask me.

http://www.microtechefi.com/microtech-prod...hp?product_id=5

Is it plug and play? or wire in? believe 33 plug and play will also plug straight into R32, and only require minor mapping changes, which any competent tuner should be able to do.