W0rp3D

It also says tri club, does that mean tri sau clubs? If so what state is it in, if in Vic what track? Just the basics is all that Im after.

Maybe if I had enough info that would make me interested enough to want to go it would be, but all I know is there is an event some where doing some thing and channel 31 will be there, not enough to get me interested.

awesome, a members only event in the non members section with no info for non members and linked to a thread that non members can not see............

location?

Back to what i believe was part of the original question and what i would like to know, is it better to use bigger breather hoses to get more out faster than standard, i have mine plumbed up in the factory configuration but i use a line from the cam cover that does not have a restrictor in it like the factory line does, it then runs through a catch can filled with stainless steel wool as a filter and then back to the intake pipe, is this better/worse/no different to have the restrictor in the line?

If you just bolt the thermo onto the rad your pretty much only cooling that circle where the fan is, if you have a full shroud (like the factory one) you will be drawing air through most of the surface area of the radiator which is a lot mor efficient than just one section, there is dual and single setups on ebay.

Maybe you need to call them, your fine was probably more than $478 wasnt it? well worth a shot!

do you have a proper shroud, if your using a thermo then a full shroud is a must to get ant sort of efficiency from it.

The person that had the car before me did the same thing, i still have the hole there, gotta get around to filling it in. Last time i get a RWC done i was with the guy when he went over it, when it was on hoist he pointed to the factory holes and asked if i did those, i said there the factory ones, he said good cos if you cut them you would need an engineers for it, i was thinking please dont turn around! lol

I am keeping it simple, you just made it more complicated than the factory setup, there will be no custom copper or welding or a plumbers shop, the whole idea is to replace items that are unique to this setup and therefore need to be ordered through nissan with off the shelf items that can be bought at any parts store. The plan is simply to run one hose from the front of the block to the heater (either join up to the existing hose or one off the shelf item) with a T piece which when put in the right place in the hose would then just require one straight hose to supply water to the heat exchanger, if pressure is a problem i know you can get a long wire coil thing (dont know its name or if it even has one) that goes on the out side of the hose and stops the hose from expanding too much, that solution on its own deletes the hard line that runs along the block and brings it out from the block for east access if i ever need to get to it again. Now that i think of it if i did go the copper line route then it would simply be one straight piece of copper pipe with a smaller T piece welded 2/3's of the way along for the heat exchanger feed, thats just as easy but less parts, probably cheaper too just need some one to weld one join. As i said there is more than one way to skin a cat.

Go back and read the thread again, one of our resident officers has posted and its clear he is a cop

lol, i got the same response when a cop told me he clocked me on the in car speedo and i asked for the calibration certificate, called me every name in under the sun, he went and checked my license came back with a bretho and then told me that he was not going to give me a fine on the spot he was going to wait till i only had a few points left summons me to court and then take it off me on the spot, funnily enough when he returned with the bretho he was not wearing his name badge lol

When i removed my original hose that went to the intake i noticed that there was a reducer inside, would be lucky if it was 5mm, more like 3mm ID so a single 10mm ID hose will breath more than enough.

Although the cop does need to be certified for that to hold up in court, dont know whether they still do it but i know a cop that had to be certified to operate a speed camera (back when vicpol operated them). Maybe you guys should split the first guys fine and get him to testify that he was speeding and he slowed down because you guys didnt speed up, might or might not work, would definately write a letter and try it though, also a lot of cop cars have onboard camera's these days, if the divvy had one then thats evidence in your favour.

LOL, there is more than one way to skin a cat, think outside the box!

Out of interest do you have a forward facing plenum? if not then a return flow cooler would be better, i have a blitz one and have seen over 30psi through it, if you get dicked with that hole cut out and it gets picked by the cops/rwc guy or vic roads you will need and engineers cert for it.

The standard ones are in a prick of a position, I know once replaced they will last forever but also there molded so would have to get them from Nissan $$$, the hard pipe is corroded so I want to get rid of that too.

Mine still has the hole under the washer bottle (not through where it is) but no piping through there, if your interested let me know, im literally 2 turns from you (i pass your house on the way to work every day), could arrange something for tomorrow arvo or saturday morning.

ok, my fix would still be the same, trace it back to where the rubber hose on the other end joins on the inlet manifold and run rubber hose around the back to some where in your picture, cut the hard line there and slip the rubber hose over it, will do just as good job for 1/10th the headaches

the hard line feed to the turbo? That hard line wont be leaking, that line starts from the inlet manifold, on the inlet side there is a 90 degree rubber hose that goes around the back corner of the head, its an absolute bitch to replace the rubber hose, it was easier for me to connect a hose to the inlet manifold and then run rubber hose to where you have taken the pic and join back to the hard line there.

I want to do a couple of track days but in general its just a street car, with that info tho I think I will forget about getting an external cooler for now and just use a couple of T's and still run the HE. 80-90 degrees? My car normally sits at low 70's and high 70's when I give it some stick

not the answers i wanted to hear but i can work with, i have a sandwich plate coming already so i could run an external cooler or i could still run new main hoses with a couple of T's to allow me to delete the hard pipe and make things simpler. Thanks for the info guys.

it will be one of the hoses in the picture in this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/387184-what-is-this-part/

Leaving it there is not the problem, I just want to bypass it so it does not have water going through it.

I have heard the same but from what i read the duty relates to how much boost you run and the gain relates to how quickly it gets there, you up the gain too much and you get spiking, i played around with mine a fair bit and found that theory to be wrong, for some turbo set ups it may be that way but for mine (and QWK32) it is not, maybe its also down to the wastegate you run, maybe some are less responsive so need the control to come in earlier to compensate for that.