W0rp3D

With an ebc set up right you don't have to worry about boost creep or drop off, personally I have spent the money on an ebc as its more accurate than the old hks adjustable wastegate I had.

why dont you just shut up and sing the song pal!

how much for the injectors and where are you?

If you have a power fc this would be my first choice, my second is a Gizzmo ebc, i have one and it works great and is not expensive because it is only an ebc, does not have any other wank factor attached, i would recommend almost any other ebc before a boost T or adjustable wastegate, the way an ebc works much better than any boost T.

what make and model are they?

Was worth a shot, Im only after from behind the cat back but you wont separate, if you do my offer stands for the section I just mentioned

Factory cat back?

$200 and ill pick it up this weekend.

still for sale?

Dont suppose you have a factory cat back for a 33? Can vouch for shane, bought a rad of him a while ago and still going strong!

Got a new sensor today, seems to work but I think it reads a little high, my original sensor was red/marone and was rectangle, the one on the other motor had an arc on one side and the rest was more rounded as well but it was the same color as the other, ill get some pics tomorrow. Thanks to every one for there input, greatly appreciated.

7k

I got it running earlier and got the temp up to -4 it now says -11 and the voltage is 4.48

Next question is what is most likely to be f**ked (both were working fine before this) sensor or ecu...........

Found out what the problem was, I had 2 of the plugs in the wrong spot, but now it reads around -30 and wont start, wouldn't start today with it still reading 150 took a lot of cracking yesterday to get it going (flattened the battery then used jumper leads to another car), I have another sensor here off another motor but it has a different plug on it and i don't have the loom to suit it

75% would be 5250.......... Are you sure?

Might be worth just calling one of the numbers above, by the time you find some one that has one he would have gone through both space savers lol

Im assuming that it uses the same sensor as the dash, the gauge on the dash is working fine and goes to zero when I unplug it but nothing changes on the power fc

No change when I disconnect the temp sensor, the hand controller does not show am error and from memory the voltage is 0.08. I don't have any thing to connect it to a lap top, can I raise the threshold via the hand controller? I will clean the earths when I get home and see if the helps, hopefully its some thing simple like that.

must be our area, finally got the 33 going tonight and got done for too low and noise lol any one know what the db limit @ what rpm for an r33 gtst?

just replaced all the water hoses under the inlet manifold, i took the manifold off to make it easier, after putting it all back together i couldnt start it, realised that i had forgotten to plug in the air meter under the manifold, eventually i got it started (took a while tho) untill i got it started the power fc would not display a temp at all but once started it constantly displays 150 temp, the dash gauge sits on half once warmed (where it nomally sits), i also tried removing the temp sensor plugs (3 of them, i think there all temp) one of them would kill the dash gauge but none of them would change the power fc, since i have had it running it feels very doughy and breaks down a bit up top, im assuming that is due to the temp reading and the power fc changing the map to compensate for the high temp reading. Any one else have this problem or have any idea how to fix it?

just replaced all the water hoses under the inlet manifold, i took the manifold off to make it easier, after putting it all back together i couldnt start it, realised that i had forgotten to plug in the air meter under the manifold, eventually i got it started (took a while tho) untill i got it started the power fc would not display a temp at all but once started it constantly displays 150 temp, the dash gauge sits on half once warmed (where it nomally sits), i also tried removing the temp sensor plugs (3 of them, i think there all temp) one of them would kill the dash gauge but none of them would change the power fc, since i have had it running it feels very doughy and breaks down a bit up top, im assuming that is due to the temp reading and the power fc changing the map to compensate for the high temp reading. Any one else have this problem or have any idea how to fix it?

since i still cant seem to ind the stub needed im just going to leave the heat exchanger on there for now, that means that you just use the same filter.

can you you get any nike style for this price or just these?

Not that I could find, I blew the front one, was a bitch to replace, a few days later the rear one blew, I have decided to delete the heat exchanger all together, so far it has cost me about $100 and thats with buying a new fitting from an rb30, I also decided to replace all the heater hoses on the fire wall while the intake manifold is off, that is another $280. If you just want to replace the hoses I suggest you replace both, take them to Burson's or some where like that and see if you can find a close match.