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I agree

Perhaps you have the wrong grade fluid in your ATTESSA system or air in the lines perhaps? Do you know if your ATTESSA system was bled correctly?

No, not quite. Buy Now is obvious but the starting bid can be anything they want it to be same with the reserve. They probably have the reserve at about the same price as the Buy Now anyway

NZ$29,995 = AU$16,500? What exchange rate are you using?

Thats funny cause if you look at the pinout diagram I have here, anything that is Automatic Trans related (A/T) says "A/T Control Box" which I would take as - this_wire_goes_to_the_auto_ecu. See pins = 124, 116, 53, 75 & 79 WGC34II_ECU_Pinouts.htm

I haven't looked but you may find they are actually bolted together. On all Nissans the engine ECU starts with 23710-????? & the Auto ECU starts with 31036-????? I will look at lunchtime & see if I can take a photo I wasn't Like so The plug at the top has been looped to complete the inhibitor switch circuit so the car believes it is in Park Something else. I am using a master cylinder from an S14 Silvia (200SX).

The ECU from an auto Skyline/Stagea is exactly the same unit as a manual type. The job of controlling the Auto is done by an entirely separate ECU. The only thing I have had to do is turn the idle down slightly as otherwise it sits at about 1100rpm. I actually still have my trans computer in place as I just haven't got around to pulling it out yet. Take for example a guy from round here who had done a manual conversion on his S14. His 'Tuner' told him he needed to buy a manual ECU so he tracked one down (the seller even told him it would make no difference), forked out $280 only to find out it made no difference anyway. He was under the impression the Silvia would go "heaps better"

Do I really need to answer that? It drives soooooooo much better!!!! No more of the auto changing up when I don't want it to or changing down when I don't want it too. Now I can use the torque of the motor to drive around corners & I know what the car is going to do. I must say my HKS BOV is starting to annoy me a little bit though, seriously thinking about refitting the original just so it'll be a bit quieter when I lift off the gas. Still working on how to get it to backfire on gear changes

Straight fit apart from the top bolt as the bracket for it is not there on a auto stagea. But the other two go in perfect. I don't use it but it covers up the two holes in the carpet. Mines not too bad but then I didn't go to crazy with the clutch anyway. Its been about 3 years since I've driven a manual everyday so I'm just getting used to it In all honesty it bolted straight in. The footbrake used 4 bolts on the firewall & 2 up behind the dash. The clutch uses just one of the bolt holes up top & then the master cylinder on the firewall. Will do when I get my camera back. I used an R33 rubber boot & steel ring. Bolted straight up to the old shifter assembly holes. Looks much tidier & cuts out a bit of noise & the heat coming through . Still haven't done my console yet

Cat? Who needs a Cat? That just impedes the gas flow Nah, there is no law in NZ to have to have Cats yet but its coming Yeah we tried that but just couldn't do it, even tried it upside down. I don't doubt that you could do it that way but I had had to much to drink by that stage anyway Your not wrong there. Not as heavy as the autos though They are coming. I ran out of time (7.30pm on a Sunday night) to finish it all off so I will be doing the final touches tomorrow. I'll post pics & what have you after that. Ahhhhh................no. Have people had to do that? My pedal just bolted straight in. I had to change my footrest for a manual R33 unit but apart from that it was all good. Carefully. I used a holesaw on the end of a drill & just went to it under the dash. There was enough room to do it. You need to be very careful when doing it though as the metal is very thin & there are ABS brake lines right on the other side. Thanks

To be honest it was fairly easy, now that I look back on it (and typed it out) but at the time I was running on pure faith that it was all going to come together. The car is my daily driver so I had to start it & finish it that weekend. I wasn't 100% that the R34 Clutch/Brake pedal was going to fit (in the end the brake pedal didn't), I smoked & drank to much, was worried that I should have dropped the whole subframe out as the gearbox was so difficult to get in, when it got a bit dark I couldn't see squat & had to use lights (very frustrating) & then when it came time to fire it up I was paranoid I might have forgotten something................but all was well. Definitely worth it. Quite surprising how much it breaks traction now though, need to look at getting an LSD I think.

For those that asked to post it here, here it is : You will need : 4WD Gearbox (R33 GTS4 or GTR Box) – Be aware of push vs pull type clutch though as a pull type clutch setup is usually more expensive than a push type. Flywheel (9 bolt turbo type) & Bolts Clutch & Pressure Plate & Bolts Bellhousing Bolts Clutch Pedal (R34 Skyline or Stagea Pedal) Brake Pedal (Stagea or cut the auto one down, R34 Pedal does not fit) R33 Handbrake Lever & Bracket Clutch Master Cylinder Clutch Line Centre Console (Stagea or cut & modify original with an R34 or similar) Manual Spigot Bush Access to a hoist & if possible a gearbox lifter Plenty of tools (drill, etc etc) Some friends to help you lift things 2 packs of Cigarettes 2 Dozen Beer (Quantity may vary depending on consumption levels) Start off by getting the Stagea onto the hoist. Remove battery as its going to be in the way when you unhook the Trans cables which are located under it on the inner guard. Unplug all 4 plugs. Remove lower dash plastics & steering columns shrouds. Remove centre console & shifter assembly. Unbolt footbrake assy & while your there the brake pedal aswell, you may need to lower the steering column to do this. You will also find that the heater vent pipe is in the way, remove that too. You should now be able to see the dummy holes for the clutch master cylinder. Drill these out but very careful when pushing through as the steel is very thin & ABS brake lines are just on the other side. Rebolt in your new or modifed brake pedal & vent pipe. Push your clutch master cylinder through & bolt up your clutch pedal. Don’t forget about the split pins!!!! Might aswell remove your footrest while your there, pop the centre cover off with a screwdriver & undo the two 10mm bolts. Remove the ignition lock out cable from the auto shifter. Reassemble your dash. Now you need to make a choice. Take gearbox out on its own or take complete engine/gearbox/subframe out. I recommend taking the entire unit out. I just pulled the gearbox & I think this is why it took so long to do. I’ll do the steps for taking the auto out on its own anyway. Put the car up in the air. Remove the front driveshaft, rear driveshaft loop, rear driveshaft, starter motor, trans cooler lines, unplug the speedo pickup, undo the hydraulic line from the diff. Slide a gearbox lifter under the trans & lower it down a bit. Undo your bellhousing bolts so you can slide it back a little. Pop the rubber cover off the sandwich plate & undo the torque converter bolts. You should now be able to slide the box out, this is the part where you need some mates to help you out. Now your box is out have a bit of a look & you will see that there is no hole for the shifter (if you hadn’t noticed already that is). You will have to cut a hole. Measure the distance on the gearbox for the shifter then mark it out on the trans tunnel from the sandwich plate on the engine. Work out how much of a hole you need. The hole is not centred but should be slightly towards the drivers side of the vehicle. Before you cut make sure all your cables are out of the way inside the cabin. Especially the ones for the airbag module. While your checking cables back in the cabin; get a star screwdrive & remove you airbag module (CAREFULLY!!!!!!!), bolts will probably have loctite on them. Gently put it to one side. Swap your R33 handbrake cable for to the position your old footbrake cable ran through. Refit your module (CAREFULLY!!!!!) Now you need to remove the auto trans spigot bush from the back of the crank. Some people have different ways off doing it. I used a die-grinder then bent it in on itself until I could pull it out. Oil up & fit your manual spigot bush. Bolt up your flywheel, clutch & pressure plate. Looks like we’re getting somewhere now. Might pay to bolt up your clutch line now while things are out the way & replace your thrust bearing. Hook up your handbrake lever to your cables aswell. This is where it gets a bit tricky. You will need to tilt the motor back so you can meet up with the box. Do whatever you have to do to do it. Raise the box up into position while bringing it forward (surprise, surprise) & you will find the the trans tunnel is narrower than the box. You will be able to get the input shaft just about past the lower pressure plate fingers. If you are worried about damaging your car this is where you will realise that you should have dropped the whole subframe out. Anyway, slide another gearbox lifter under the front of the box. Pump it up under the front of the box essentially forcing the trans tunnel (slightly) into the room you need, you won’t need much & the gearbox will slide into place & it will all of a sudden look like there is masses of room. Get the box bolted up & begin reassembling everything. Hook up your clutch line to the box. Bolt up new bellhousing bolts, driveshafts, remove the crossmember from the auto & bolt it up to the manual box, plug in your speedo pickup, diff hydraulic line. Fill the box with fresh fluid and bleed up your clutch master cylinder. You will now need to mount your handbrake lever, there is a bracket in the centre of the trans tunnel for the centre console, you will need to remove that. Weld, bolt, screw or pop rivet it onto your trans tunnel. Run the cable for the handbrake light from the footbrake position to the new handbrake. Fit/modify your centre console. Go back to the front of car with the four plugs. The two pin grey plug is your inhibitor switch, put a loop between those (cut plug off auto trans loom). The brown plug is for the reverse lights (well two pins of it anyway), hook those up. You should be about ready for some 4WD Heli’s!!!!!!! Big thanks to Kelvin, Rob & Jason at The Cartune Company (tools & hoist), Brent, Jason at Te Rapa A/E, Ueli, Sjoerd & Phil, for the muscle power and help, & of course Corona for help with the inevitable dehydration & B&H for the stress relief.

Will do that Yup yup, bolted straight up. Can't say them same for the R34 brake pedal though Actually wasn't to bad. Used a 40mm holesaw. Easy as

Thanks Cy

My apologies for not reposting about the conversion. Started the swap at 1pm on Saturday & I drove it home at 7.30 Sunday night, as a manual. Took approx 18 hours, 2 packs of cigarettes & 22 Coronas. Had access to a hoist & gearbox lifter & 3 or 4 other people for manpower. I have posted a 'How to' on SDU as SAU was down yesterday for some reason. Here is the link http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51894 I could post a Complete thread here as well if people are interested. Stagea goes FANTASTIC now by the way!!!! All up it cost me NZ$1880 + beer & fluids. I am still yet to finish the console & fix down the handbrake but I'll do that this weekend.

Oh my bad. It must be 260RS console's that are different then

Is it just me but does that Centre Console look a little different (Handbrake cutout appears to be barely there)

I might aswell put in my 2 cents then. My auto is shagged also. R33 GTS25 4WD Gearbox R33 GTS25 Flywheel R32 GTR Clutch & Pressure Plate (New) R34 GT-T Clutch Pedal R34 GT-T Brake Pedal S14 Clutch Master Cylinder R32 Clutch Line R33 Handbrake Assembly R34 Centre Console to blend with Stagea Console I'll let you know how it all went on Monday

After I fitted my FMIC I found, what seemed to be, a loss of power which I thought was either lag from the new piping (yeah right) or that my boost control valve was playing up. After some inspection I found the the boost level was actually not changing when this was happening. This usually occured under semi-light throttle with about 0.2 bar boost. Then I started noticing that it was taking a looooooooooonnnnnngggg time to change gears when I had the foot up it. On sunday I attempted to pull away from an intersection & found that I had barely any drive, I backed off the throttle & reapplied it to find it was there again. Today after giving it a squirt it SLAMMED into the next gear after holding between the gears. Not a whole lot of fun really. Still, it does give me more reason to do the manual conversion now

I am doing the manual converison this weekend (yes I will try to get as many photos as possible) but I just want to make 100% sure that I can use the Stagea auto driveshafts (front & rear) and crossmember. I have measured the auto box vs the manual box & the crossmember lines up at the same point but can someone please confirm this for me?

I wondered if someone would pick that up...............

Spose I'll join in then

$750AU is pretty reasonable. Might be the go. Now its the decision time I guess, centre console or Splitfires

Try not to fall off your chair will laughter but if anyone has a Manual Centre Console they'd be willing to part with, let me know................

Damn. I know its not a precise measurement or comparison but my R34 pedal looks identical to that in the picture. We shall see I suppose