tRUkbOY

Ok so this is from my 260RS diff (LH Side). Does anyone recognise it from something else? DIMENSIONS : 31.5mm diameter across splines 33mm diameter across middle section 35mm diameter across base of shaft Spline section is about 40mm across the overall shaft length 31 teeth 155mm long overall Does anyone by any chance have an R32 GTR or R33 GTR they can check? It doesn't need to be the 6 x 1 flange as I'll change axles anyway. Basically I need to figure out the LH side so I can change both or find a RH side as I simply don't have it. This is so I can match the rear diff with the front 4.111 I am trying to avoid having to change my rear hubs to GTR Thanks

Its a Bilstein badge

Thats something I am still yet to do, test the economy of the RB26. It appears so far to be more economical than the RB25DET (manual or auto) was as I get about 30 or 40 more kms from the usual $60 fuel. Mine is stock apart from the 3" exhaust & Trust Airinx Filters (yes stock boost even)

I'm a little curious about this as I used an R33 handbrake with no bending. Admittedly I had to chip some of the body sealant off but it sat flush with the tunnel. I used a second had bracket aswell which I just drilled out of an R33 sedan. Hell, no one can see the thing once the centre console was fitted anyway.

Sometimes if the battery has been jumped backwards it will fry the main fuse - saving (hopefully) you ECU & other electronics. Check in the main fuse box in the engine bay. Also check under the positive battery cover on the terminal itself, occasionally they are built in there instead. Check the keyway hasn't broken off on the end of the exhaust cam driving your crank angle sensor. Have seen that happen a couple of times after a service (myself included ) Apart from that, as Duncan said; fuel, spark & compression

Like this : http://page18.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w7866209

My 260RS centre gauge pod got stolen so I thought an R33 GTR unit would do the job as the layout was the same: <TORQUE> <OIL TEMP> <BOOST> Weird part is my boost now reads through the front torque gauge & of course I actually need an oil press gauge not temp. Freaked me out first time I fired it up & the needle went to the top :laughing-smiley-014: So anyway, R33 GTR unit will not work even in a 260RS, although I might try swapping the Boost & Torque around & see if that fixes that bit. PS - anyone know where I can get a 260RS centre gauge pod

Ferrari 456 Wagon (I believe another one of the Sultan's cars) Don't know if you get these in Oz but nonetheless Cefiro (Maxima) Wagon JDM Option R33 Skyline Stationwagon (not a modded Stagea)

2500rpm @ 100km/h in 5th (manual) running 235/40-18's

When I was running the R33 GTS-4 box 100 km/h was about 2700rpm from memory. My final drive is 4.083. Don't ask me what it was when it was Auto, I really have no idea. Now I have the RB26 & the 260RS 5 speed but still running the same diff (but with my 18's) & now its 2500rpm at 100 km/h. I will be fitting the 260RS diff shortly (a 4.111) so it will change again no doubt. My speedo is 100% correct as I have driven past a couple of those mobile 'display speed' trailers that we have round here every now & again. I'm not too sure where everyone gets this "stagea's run a 4.3 ratio" as I have NEVER seen one with RE4R01A RC43 on the chassis tag. All that I've seen (and there have been a few) have had RE4R01A RC40 (same as mine) suggesting a 4.0 : 1 ratio

Sorry did I not remember to mention that those fit.....................oops I've been running the Altima clear indicators for nearly a year now. Bought a set of Ebay. You do need to trim one of the outer locator lugs though but they fit mint as

As far as I know R32 & R33 GTR Engine ECU plugs are the same..............not sure about R34. What I want to find out is whether the 260RS ECU plug is the same as R32/R33 GTR or is it R34 GTR? Or are they all the same?

When I fitted the 26 I bled up the clutch on my own but admittedly it was manual before so fluid was probably trapped. When I did it the first time round when I did the manual conversion I had REAL issues getting fluid to flow through (I'm using an S14 master cylinder) but we had access to compressed air. The workshop I did it at (thanks again guys!!!!!) had a tool that hooked up to one nipple at a time & drew (sucked) the fluid through. Worked a treat & I had the best pedal ever!!!!!

Yes. The Autech pedal combined with a RWD Nissan Master Cylinder (ie S14, Navara etc) & the appropriate length internal shaft for the Cylinder (S14 is correct anyway) + a Factory Nissan Spacer from like a Primera will do the trick. Just means it will be unboosted but realistically my RB26 is unboosted & its a pull type & its fine to drive everyday in traffic.

Yup. Fit mint as & mine is lowered. Am running 235/40 18's which fit fine. Factory R34 GTR fitting is 245/40 18 which I will fit next time once I wear these out just so the rim as slightly more protection

The 260RS wheels are only a 17 x 7 (or maybe 7.5) and have a 30 offset at the front and (from memory) a 20 at the rear. I would expect the V-Spec II's are probably 17 x 8 or 9's

Thanks everyone. I'm pretty stoked with it myself actually yokotas13 - sorry I have just refitted them this afternoon darrinspencer - the donor was an S1 & the white face gauges are not fitted anymore. That pic was taken when I was still running the 25. The 260 cluster is orange on black now newbie101 - yes I have an S1 Dayz front bumper for sale now but remember I am in NZ

What started as this : Is now this : Still got some little things left to do. Getting there though

Pics?

Buggar!!! Maybe I should unplug mine then I found a plug that fitted & plugged it in, then my 4WD light came on the other day - admittedly my diff hasn't been changed yet nor is my front driveshaft in but it may have something to do with it

Awesome!!!!!

No problem. If your ever in NZ your welcome to try it out

Just thought I should mention to people that are looking at undertaking a manual conversion; don't get caught up worrying about having to heavy a clutch pedal without the boosted clutch master cylinder, its not needed. I had a push type before & I now have a pull type gearbox running just a stock R34 un-boosted clutch pedal & its perfect for everyday driving - not heavy at all

Congrats on the purchase!!! Just as a note the wiring side of the auto to manual swap is dead simple. Most of it comes unplugged behind the LF headlight & is removed when you take the Auto out. Then all you need to do is bridge the auto inhibitor switch so it will start & run a wire back from another plug for the reverse lights. Inside the car you will need to lengthen the wire from the handbrake lever to the new one on the trans tunnel. And that my friend is it. See my Manual Conversion Guide for pics of the plugs.

Normally I would agree. In fact I prefer my old Dayz front end (which doesn't fit anymore) over my new 260 front but I think this is probably the toughest S2 I've seen :