Spammeoff

The clutch master cylinder you used, is it R33 skyline? Or something else?

Oh and some more info, my factory BOV was leaking (but I never thought the squealing would be that) so I replaced it with a block-off plate, squealing noise didn't change. (Boost maybe climbs a bit faster.... hard to tell).

My standard S1 does the same thing, no other side-effects it seems, but its gotta be a prob of some sort. I do have a slight exhaust leak between the head and exhaust manifold where I can see its snapped some studs off. Could be this I suppose? Doesn't sound that way, but backpressure between exhaust ports and turbine wheel must increase when boosting, hence perhaps the 'squealing' noise. I took my air intake to turbo off to check sideplay on turbo shaft, essentially none. But I didn't really think it would be that. Be pretty interested in some other opinions though!

Great Info!! Thats put my mind at ease, could the 10:1 cause a miss do you think? It works through it ok and rpm continues to climb, but I guess this could be as boost is dropping back to 7-8psi(due to pneumatic boost controller). What does R&R stand for?

Haha, no I'm right! I don't know if you've got foggy mirror probs in Oz but in NZ, its rampant. And that button can magically clear them..

Its the Heated Side Mirrors bro! Try it out when they're fogged up, it clears a square in the middle!! Wondered who else had that.

I've got a working luggage fan, hours of fun. The other side has the factory stacker, whats wrong with that? Do others have a 'light reduce' switch? It makes the headlights dim when you're not moving. How does the 'Power' button down by the auto stick work? I notice sometimes when you accelerate hard, but the power button is off, the light illuminates on the button. Pretty confusing. And up on the dash, the button showing all four wheels with a 'C' in the middle, obviously some sorta diff lock, but what locking exactly?

I normally always use Mozilla Firefox to browse, and have been using it on this site for ages. But since monday any link on here I click on, it goes to it, loads top 1/4 of screen, then stalls the browser for several minutes, then complete loading. Internet Explorer is fine though. Using Firefox 1.5 beta 1. Could be Proxy issue as I'm at work, but IE and Firefox use same one.

My AFR's are that rich or worse when I did Dyno full power runs. My car is standard, but I was running 'high' boost mode all the time. My max power was up closer to 7000rpm though, not 4500rpm. And my car uses obscene amounts of gas. I've got a wideband AF setup to install and get my head around exactly what my 'standard' mixtures are doing. If I run more boost, it misses when it hits 9psi, but I know it'll be 10:1 or so around there, so maybe its a rich misfire. Shouldn't be detonation I only run 98octane and 9psi so it would be hard. Will be very interested to log some driving with the Innovate LC-1. Does it seem lots of Stagea's are this rich? Like 10:1 at top end. Nissan wouldn't do that, its outside all tuning theories I'd think.

Fantastic, thanks for the picture!! I have the centre-of-wheel to guard measurements at home, but they coincide closely with your standard height measurements you've posted. I think you mentioned some suspected sagging in the rear of your car, perhaps mine is similiar (120k's), and I guess its giving me quite a lot of negative. Am I correct in thinking .5deg is the full range of adjustment in those eccentric bolts? Just rang wheel alignment shop and spoke to operator, he was aware of the rear adjustment, quoted how its same as skyline, laurel, and said it was fully wound out already. Imagine he's right, but i'll get under there for a look. Perhaps its economical to get adj. camber arms, and necessary if I were to lower it.

Just had a wheel alignment performed on my Stagea, and am a bit curious about the rear camber. Took it to a good place (in Christchurch, NZ - Firestone performance centre). Car had factory suspension(its not lowered) when I imported it a couple of months back, and having just put 18's on I took it for a wheel alignment. Rear Camber before adjustment: Left: -2.21 Right: -2.10 (Stated target -.55 (+-.3)), After adjustment: Left: -2.16 Right: -2.07 So almost no change, probably just measurement error from the before/after run. Seeing as adjustment is possible from stock, I'd have hoped they'd try for less camber. (Couldn't ask as gf picked it up, will ring em 2moro) But maybe they presumed non-adjustable, could a place be un-aware of this today? Or they could already have been at full positive, but I can't see why unless something damaged. No signs of trouble, but old 15's I removed for new wheels were showing inside wear. Should I get under there and eyeball the camber adjuster? Not that I know where it is. On top wishbone somewhere? And I don't feel like replacing my nearly new 235/40/18 G3's before I have to, is -2 gonna fudge em? I can rotate all 4 wheels I guess, but still. Cheers.

I still have the original flare, still waiting for that 'roadside emergency' when i get to light it and chuck it out the window!

A 9.279.....!! Awesome. I haven't been using TCS for a long time, didn't think it was the go after some experimentation. Haven't tried anymore since posting 9.349, but I'm gonna have to shoot for that 9.2, damn thats fast though.

Work on your gears mostly. I reckon a 9.2 can be done...

Gearbox changed.... and now back with a faster time for ya'll!! Haha slammed. My flatmate told me a 9.2 would be possible, and I told him he was a fool.. but maybe theres a case!!

Jesus! And I was going to change a gearbox this evening... guess thats off. Screenshot!?!?

Haha you know it is, makes perfect sense! Well in the world of GT4 the RS4 makes a max 590HP, and about 600Nm @ 3200rpm from memory. Whereas the RS260 makes about 570HP, and a little less torque, but at 4400rpm or so. I assume the Nitrous used adds the same amount of power to either engine, you're not told how much that is so only guessin. On the strip I'd think the higher rpm torque of the RS260 would be better. However the RS260 can be reduced to 1427kg, the RS4 1360kg, hence the RS4 should be faster. Doesn't reflect real-life, but I'm an RS4 driver so you won't see me complaining But that time of 9.458 in the RS260 I thought was bloody quick considering the weight difference, just not the fastest Stagea!! Haha who can beat my 9.433?!!? I see its getting close!!

Your car looks pretty low in the shot with its Factory 16's! What springs are in it there? Did you have the grooved Bilsteins in at that point?

Baaahahahaa 9.433!! Took a while.... but takes the lead! In the RS4 Stagea cause I knew it would be faster!

Confusion on my part too then, I thought R33GTS-T rear springs fitted the rear of a Stagea. Stagea ones are tapered at the top right? I see from a pic that R33 rears are too. So if the Skyline rears don't fit (just talking fit here, not rate suitability), what do? Cheers.

Haha yeah whoops, thought it was from RS-4 title, but didn't look it in pics. How could you tell for sure? ....apart from maybe price.. :-\

This Series2 is pretty cheap I thought!! Almost consider selling my S1 and buying it for the better motor! Needs another 1K spent on vin/reg/wof. http://www.vehicleimport.co.nz/photos/carsmo273.html

So I was looking at buying 'Low' King Springs for R33 GTS-T (Supposed to lower the Skyline by ~30mm). And I was aware they might be too light for the Stagea, so I looked to see what Nismo sold for rear of both cars in terms of weight. Rear Springs Only: Stagea (lowers 20mm) 4.4kg/mm, R33 GTS-T (lowers 20mm) 4.8kg/mm So the Skyline springs are heavier which isn't what I expected. I know different cars can have different Motion Ratio's from the recent Autospeed article (http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2904/article.html), but these cars would be the same I would expect (sharing the suspension and all). So why shouldn't I buy the R33 Kings....? Are they gonna lower the Stagea 30mm as specified for a Skyline, or more, or less? I'm thinking more..

What about the offset? I'd think that +38mm will stick out quite far. I have +30mm front and rear, and this is what Nismo recommend for the Stagea (Nismo's Stagea parts list) I have Nismo LM GT2's in Nismo's dimensions for the Stagea and they fit well.

Hi Guys, Last night I was installing an AFR meter, and using the pinout I found here(http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=31087), I attacked the ecu wiring for some splicing fun. Looking at the Pinout Chart, I took number 50 to be the O2 sensor reading ("Heated oxygen sensor signal"). So put the multimeter between that wire and chassis ground and started the car. Voltage started at 2.2v, and slowly decreased to about 1.4v once eng.temp was completely warm. I hooked up my gauge, but I knew it probably wouldn't register anyone above 10:1, as its made to measure between 0 and 1v. Went for a drive, but volts never dropped below 1v. So I cut the wire to the ecu (leaving the gauge still attached to it), and volts dropped instantly to 0, and sat there. Engine check-light came on, which I expected, and then after a little while car wouldn't even start (dunno why!). Reconnecting oxy sensor wire to ecu and reseting ecu fixed all that. So I figure my oxy sensor is probably stuffed, no worries. But why I saw 2.2V which dropped to 1.4V is still a mystery. Anyone else measured theirs?? Also, the wire for lights wasn't present on my ecu! jeez. Oh and the oxy wire at the ecu is purple if anyone is trying to find it. Once I've got this gauge running successfully I'll do a tutorial, its a big of a pain digging out the wires from the pinout diagram.